I had bought my '99 35th Anniversary Mustang in about June of 2011. When I bought the car, I thought that it was already pretty much customized by the previous owners to how I wanted it to be. Finished for the most part, in other words. Well, not quite!
The pictures here go from left to right in order of their chronology. Other than the "high performance 3.8" badges, and the red striping on the sides of the car and on the hood (and dual exhaust), it was as I bought it. I liked the old school musclecar Eagle Alloys and BFG Radial T/A's.
Overall, this is what is done to the car. I wanted to have a sort of super stock 3.8, in working with what was already there (7.5" rear end, etc). Overall, I have a bit more money than sense, as well as the investment of dozens of my own hours into the car....I will never get most of my money out of this if I were to sell it, but then again, I would never sell it. It recently cracked the 200,000 km mark, and I drive it in the winter, too (with rustproofing on the bottom, of course).
--American Muscle cold air intake
--SCT Livewire tuner
--ported and polished upper and lower intake manifolds
--70mm Accufab throttle body (intake manifold throttle body opening ported/ port matched)
--VAP 1/2" phenolic intake spacer (upper intake manifold at operating temps, is warm to the touch)
--ASP 25 percent underdrive pulley
--PA Performance 130 amp performance alternator with upgraded power wire
--BBK ceramic shorty headers
--NTK performance O2 sensors
--MAC catback dual exhaust with custom h-pipe
--Screamin' Demon coil
--MSD 8.5mm wires
--NGK Iridium IX plugs
--Auburn limited slip differential (7.5")
--Ford Racing 4.10's with rebuild kit (did have FRPP 3.73's in it for a year or so). Synthetic differential fluid.
--M/E Wagner dual adjustable PCV and Moroso air/ oil separator (air/ oil separator mounted in place of A/C compressor)
--J&M adjustable lower control arms
--new Monroe shocks on the rear end
--Mobil 1 synthetic oil and K&N oil filter
--63 inch Goodyear Gatorback accessory belt instead of a 99.5 inch, along with a Gatorback idler pulley so that I can run the belt over the idler. I didn't do this necessarily out of performance reasons, just the fact that there's no point to running a dummy A/C pulley and any extra belt length....also, I needed a place to mount my Moroso air/ oil separator, and the best and most convienient place to do it was where the A/C compressor used to be.
--wrapped the fuel lines and rails in aluminum reflective tape. I did this moreso to help prevent detonation and pinging, to keep the fuel cooler. The datalogging doesn't lie--it's 25-30 degrees cooler.
--drilled many 5/16" vent holes under the scoop, making it functional to remove heat
--synthetic transmission fluid
--American Muscle black FR500 staggered rims with 275's on the front and 315's on the back (Nitto NT555 Extreme Performance). Not overkill on the back, as I was not getting much grip at all with BFG Radial T/A 235's (originally had Eagle Alloys and BFG T/A's on the car). Still a fair amount of tire spin on shifts with the 315's on the back
--GT sidescoops with inserts painted red
--GT hoodscoop with ventilation holes drilled in the hood
--smoked 3rd brakelight
--later model SN95 headlights (ie: has the black bezels)
--black licence plate surrounds
--stainless steel bumper insert letters
--red striping (had it down the sides for a while and on the back bumper; now only the hood striping remains. Wanted a more stripped down look recently)
--Mach 1 grille delete (pony painted red)
Engine appearance mods:
--brushed aluminum look on runners on upper intake manifold
--painted valve covers red
--Mustang logo on oil cap
--black billet shift knob
--Auto Meter gauge cluster
--red accents throughout (passenger cowl Mustang script, shifter bezel, door lock pin surrounds, etc. Vent shutter tips are painted red, if you look closely in the vents in the pictures)
--Pioneer stereo system
--Mustang floor mats
--Compustar alarm with two way pager
--about 100-110 lbs of various weight removed (spare tire/ jack, air conditioning/ condenser/ piping, driver's knee kick plate, factory stereo amp/ cd player, etc). Don't be horrified by the A/C removal....it didn't work anyways (I usually have the windows open in the summer anyways), and in lieu of a spare tire, I have a lightweight compressor and a can of green slime in the trunk
--Gorilla locking lug nuts
--locking gas cap
--I run 94 octane 10 percent ethanol in the summer with a 93 race tune (and sometimes a 93 performance tune). Looking at the backs of the valves, they are absolutely spotless
Some may be wondering about the ME Wagner PCV setup. Why did I do this? Originally, I was going to delete the PCV because of the overly aggressive stock PCV that sucks up a ton of oil and blowby into the upper intake. I had decided against a breather system, as it eventually gets the engine bay oily, as well as the fact that blowby gases and moisture aren't being evacuated from the crankcase (PCV helps to pull the pistons up on their upstroke).
Anyone who has taken off the upper manifold on these SN95 engines knows that there is a TON of oily crud, carbon and sludge in there. It starts to affect the air/ fuel charge, with some mild pinging at mild load and at cruise speeds (1500-2500 rpms or so, mostly). I had taken off my upper intake to install the VAP phenolic spacer last year, and had cleaned out the intakes. At this time, I had also installed the revised (2001 and up) valve covers with the improved baffle design, as well as an inline fuel filter to catch the oil. Well, this year, I took the upper and lower intakes off to port and polish them, and there was a big layer of oil and blowby gases in there again. I installed the Moroso air/ oil separator and the dual adjustable PCV (to tone down the vacuum that the manifold was using to pull excessive blowby) and the intakes were spotless.
The ME Wagner works well with a vacuum gauge, but the vacuum gauge mostly just confirms that the idle to cruise transition is working. The dual adjustable PCV works great in conjunction with a datalogging device that has access to "desired idle RPM" and RPM parameters, as you can fine tune it at idle.
I've worked hard to keep engine bay temperatures down, with the ceramic shorty headers, phenolic intake spacer and things like that. On a hot day, rarely do the temps go beyond ambient, and if the outside temps are 86, I think that it usually hovers at about that range, and only goes up to 87-93 or so. And that's with a LOT of idling. The upper intake manifold is just barely warm to the touch, compared to the rest of the engine. So the heat stays within the engine to keep the operating temps where they should be. Datalogging the coolant temps, they usually stay from 184-189, and they only venture beyond that when there's lots of idling. At any rate, the low speed fan doesn't usually come on, and the high speed fan rarely comes on.
The pictures of the ported/ polished intake/ gasket matched manifolds are my own work. I'm no expert, but I think that it's an alright job, and I had tapered the runners to where they match up (gasket matching made more sense, especially since the VAP phenolic intake spacer was already gasket matched when it was cut). I kind of left the area around the EGR bungs, because they're already a hindrance in the air path in the runners, so unless one either filled the bungs with metal/ welds (and file the metal down) in or had some sort of flush mounted EGR system that was flush with the runner contours, they're going to create turbulence in the runner, anyways. I had noticed some low to mid RPM power increases......nothing drastic, but I suspect after a cam change, it will yield more way more in terms of gain.
I did the upper/ lower manifold modifications about a half a year ago, and the car still runs well and there's no leaks. FelPro lower intake and upper intake gaskets work great, and black RTV is your friend. I had also noticed that the lower intake gaskets were starting to fail on my high mileage car......they were no longer completely insulating the cooling jackets from the lifter galley, so when oil was splashing from the lifters/ pushrods, it was starting to get into the coolant. Nothing bad, but it was definetely time to replace 'em.
As far as anyone is wondering about how the 4.10's perform over the 3.73's, it is a noticeable difference. With the 4.10's, the driveshaft is turning almost a full revolution more than the axle, than the stock 3.27's. This equates to a ridiculously fast 1st and 2nd gear, but my car is an automatic, and 3rd gear (1:1 ratio with no torque multiplication) is definetely slower than the 3.73's. 0-60 is about 6.8 seconds, 0-90 is about 14.65, but 80-90 slows down somewhat, and at the upper revs (4800-5200) in 3rd, the car is struggling from the 90-100 range. Gear runs out (before overdrive, that is) around the 95-100 mph range. Highway cruise revs in overdrive are at about 2200-2300 ish.....which is pretty good. I think that's alright.
Next year, I'm going to put new upgraded heads and a cam in it. I've just bought a set of ported and polished heads off of another member on here, but it needs some bowl work and to be really finessed, and i'll be upgrading the springs on them, as well.
Anyways, enough technical stuff.....in the end, the car is just a blast to drive and gets lots of compliments and turns many heads. There's enough sweat equity into it that I feel that it's unique and a bit different than other Mustangs.
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