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'00 3.8 to 4.3 Build

Discussion in 'Personal Projects and Builds' started by vsixxer24, Oct 27, 2014.

  1. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    Hey guys, I am new here to the forum. Here is a post I did up on allfordmustangs .com that got deleted, not sure why.. But anyways, I have a 2000 3.8 and after 215K miles, I spun a bearing, not just one but two. I was sad and happy at the same time. I knew for awhile I wanted to build this engine up to a 4.3 stroker and that day marked day one of my rebuild. To start, I went to troubleshoot to see what was causing the knock, dropped the oil pan, removed a couple caps and there they were, disappointing as can be.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    That night, I pulled the old 3.8 out and started the disassembly.

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    After I got the engine stripped, I sent it out to a local machine shop for machining. The shop did an excellent job, decked the block, bored her over .020, line honed all the caps and cam bearing holes, pressed out and in new brass freeze plugs, maged it, and balanced everything.

    Now, with this build I went with some custom forged wiseco .020 over pistons, forged eagle long h-beam rods with arp bolts, custom grind compcam camshaft (224/230, 554/554 with a 114 lsa), and a ’01 ford 4.2 maged crankshaft with chamfered oil holes.

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    After getting the block and components back home, assembly started. These wiseco piston rings are not your friend; I snapped one installing onto a piston and another one going into the block. Lubrication is a key- dipped piston into oil to cover the entire skirt, made installation 10x easier. I got 4 in and waited for 2 more sets of rings from wiseco.

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    I got all the pistons in, new crank, bearings, and rods installed. Everything going along smoothly, anxiety starts to arise. Next, camshaft and timing chain install. I messed up and forgot to install the chain guides, woops- too excited need to slow down. Re-installed timing chain, all good again. Did some cleaning up and painted the timing cover, oil pump, and oil pan.

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    Next, I installed the windage tray and oil pick up. This was a little experiment. The oil pick up has to be from an ’01 and up mustang. You can use the ’00 windage tray but need to make adjustments accordingly to give the crank some clearance. I did this by spacing out the try with 3 .188” (3/16) grade 8 washers on each of the studs. This gave clearance, not a much but it was about ¼ of an inch. After all said and done, using the ’00 dip stick and dip stick tube; you will also have to bend it a little bit so the stick doesn’t interfere with the crank. And make sure, once it is built, you make a new mark on your dip stick for 5qts of oil level.

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    Next, I installed the compcam lifters. I was told to apply moly grease to them prior to installation. Then I installed the pan, timing cover, oil filter, water pump and a couple sensors. I picked up a new water pump, T-stat, CPS with synchro, and CPKS. I also did not use the balance shaft, new bearings installed, just rotated them to block the oil holes.

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]

    The harmonic balancer was next. I couldn’t use the ’00 balancer since the 3.8 is externally balanced and the 4.2 is internally balanced. That being said, I got a new ’01 mustang neutral harmonic and a neutral flywheel.

    I sent the heads out to get ported along with the upper and lower intake manifolds. The shorties were already bigger than the heads so I had them match ported. Since I had the heads off before and resurfaced in the past; with another resurfacing and the decking on the block, I used .010 thicker head gaskets so the compression isn’t changed by much and also got o-ring grooves in the head to insure compression. After the heads were on, I had to use a rod checker to measure the length of what the pushrods need to be since the stock pushrods didn’t work with new roller rockers. Got custom pushrods made.

    [​IMG]

    Painted the lower intake after I got it back and the valve covers. Got all that installed along with the shorties and engine mounts. Got it off the stand and bolted up the flywheel, clutch, and tranny. Ready for transplant! It was a bit difficult due to the tranny and engine being together. Had to achieve some serious tilt to drop the ass end of the tranny down and had to get the car up high enough to clear the tranny from the hitting the ground. Had to readjust several times but I was able to get it in.

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    Bolted it in along with other some accessories bolted up, had to replace the power steering pump since it had been squealing before the 3.8 died. Installed some ford racing 24# injectors along with a walbro 255lph pump. After the upper intake is on and everything else bolted into place, I wished I would of painted the upper intake LOL. Once the engine is broken in and it’s time for the P1SC and 42# injectors, I will do some cleaning up. Until then, here she stands.

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    Bama Tuned

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    Thanks for reading!!
    Taylor
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2014
  2. Turbang_6

    Turbang_6 3.8 Turbo Build Under Way

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    Looks like a great build. Any plans for forced induction at any point.
     
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  3. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    Yes, I have a Procharger P1SC with a polished stage 2 ati intercooler with 11 psi pulley after I'm finish with the break-in (4k miles on the engine for complete break-in)
     
  4. dstaff

    dstaff Active Member

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    Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your pistons are in backwards.
     
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  5. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    LMFAO..well that sucks... the pistons are made to fit .010 in the hole.. nothing hits, guess probably why the custom pushrods were shorter than the stock ones..
     
  6. dstaff

    dstaff Active Member

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    Did you mock up a cylinder with clay and check piston to valve clearance with a solid lifter? Pushrod length should have very little to do with how much clearance you have between the valves and pistons, but those reliefs should definitely be positioned toward the valley side of the block.
     
  7. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    I did not mock anything up, didn't think I had to for the valves/heads. I'm pulling going to the engine to change that. Hopefully there are no bent valves. Luckily the pistons are forged, so I might just have to polish them up a bit (fingers crossed). Thanks for the catch, could have been a lot worse in the long run.
     
  8. Turbang_6

    Turbang_6 3.8 Turbo Build Under Way

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    I would call super six motor sports just to verify.
     
  9. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    I did, waiting for Tom to call me back.. I bought the piston set from him. Pretty sure they're backwards tho, after reading up on it after dstaffs comment. I did read that installing the pistons backwards could add 30HP ;) LOL- think that is for older era's flat heads or so..
     
  10. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    The comp ratio is also pretty low, so that could be helping with not damaging or bending any valves..maybe..
     
  11. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    Was the rotating assembly balanced? If not they should have been and installed accordingly. What are the bearing clearances? Also a walbro 255lph part # gss340 will not work with your year car as it's designed for return style fuel system. It will burn up.
     
  12. dstaff

    dstaff Active Member

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    I agree the rotating assembly should have been balanced, but what would that have to do with how the OP installed his components?
     
  13. Markstang

    Markstang Polishing my banhammer Staff Member

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    Welcome aboard! I'm gonna shift this thread over to the build section since this will fit perfectly there.
     
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  14. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    The rotating assembly was balanced. On the mains, I had about .001 of clearance. On the rods, I had about .0012 of clearance. Using plastigage. And it's the Walbro TU228HP fuel pump.

    I was told by SSM, the valves will not come to contact with the pistons. Since they're dished, that is helping me out. Only worry part is the offset. The Pistons have an offset to remove thrust and since I have them in backwards, it creates more thrust, more drag on the skirts of the Pistons. I have already did a 15 minute run-in procedure and I am 80 miles into my break-in..
     
  15. dstaff

    dstaff Active Member

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    Those are pretty tight clearances
     
  16. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    Yes, but they are in tolerance of whats allowed. I believe the crank bearings allow .001 to .0015 and the rod bearings allow .001 to .002.
     
  17. davidcseifert

    davidcseifert that V6 guy

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    What CR are those pistons set up for?
     
  18. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    9:1 compression ratio.. a little lower than the stock 3.8
     
  19. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    I figured the person balancing would have weighed and marked what bore each piston went into according to weight.
     
  20. vsixxer24

    vsixxer24 Active Member

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    when I picked up the block, pistons, rods, crank, harmonic, flywheel, bearings and rings, they were not marked at all. I noticed the crank had weight marks added/removed but no marking on the Pistons or rods. I never had an engine balanced before, so I didn't know what to expect, I thought of that concept but when I received everything, there where no instructions about which goes where. Were they suppose to be marked?