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00 turbo singleport project

Discussion in 'Personal Projects and Builds' started by fasterthanyou, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    Spending my day off dicking around with this. Still no call back from the guy with the ms3. Thinking he flaked out on me. I got mine to communicate with my pc again. Updating thr firmware right now. Its slow as molases. Will update with results
     

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  2. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    Winner winner chicken dinner! I spent so long reading threads on other forums on ms3 troubleshooting. I de-soldered capacitors and soldered new ones in. All for nothing.

    Turns out i needed to change the COM port on my laptop to recognize the ms3.

    Its tedious things like this that hold up a build. At least i saved myself 450 bucks by not buying a used ms3.. for now...

    going to install the ecu tomorrow after work and see if it works.
     

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  3. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    It works.. sort of.

    I'm having the same problem as before where the intake temp, coolant temp and throttle sensor arent reading. All 3 sensors share a common signal return wire so that is where i will begin with the troubleshooting process.

    The fuel pump powers up, the injectors pulse and the spark plugs are getting spark. So at least some progress has been made.
     
  4. Spdricer

    Spdricer Member

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    Are u getting a signal going out of the ms3 into the sensor? If there is do you have one coming back? Make sure volt meter is correct should be v_ 00.00 i think online you prolli shoulda found already the volts needed with the coolant sensor it is such a low voltage signal its very sensitive it cant be near anything of high voltage or be near any other electrical wires without being mindfull that with proper insulation they can interfere with eachother and give u a "noisy" signal but i read once u do manage to get the ms3 to read a signal u can wire in a resistor and or a small capacitor to steady the signal
    This would be the thought process i would atleast start with
    I would definently keep all signal wires seperate
    Close up pictures?
    Dont hold out on us please lol just write watever
     
  5. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    Already on top of all that but thanks.

    I'm almost positive i have the signal return wire soldered to a ground pin on the 37 pin connector on the ms3. I assumed the grey and red wire was a common ground for those 3 sensors but when referencing the megamanual it specifically states that the signal return wire should NOT be wired to ground.

    I figured that the ms3 sent power to each sensor and measured current draw but instead it measures resistance therefore the signal return cannot be grounded.

    Ill solder a wire onto the correct pin on the 37 pin connector after work today. Will post with results.
     
  6. Spdricer

    Spdricer Member

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    ...dont forget this is not a private conversation its obvious u know that im just trying to lay out some basics For the other people reading now or after were dead and gone..

    Honestly why i started my thread is so that i can be the one person that finally lays it out simply and easy to understand for the beginner that got here through a web search and is hungry for knowledge like i was..

    But more times than once i see by the time the person understand everything about a car everything that a young knowledge seeker is thirsting for they either dont really have the drive to want to share it all or when they do they speak in racer code engine builder lingo acronyms and abbreviations its so hard to start from nothing and i would like to make it easier for the next young man with a wrench and a dream!.. as feutile as it might be..
    So as u have been please continue to share with us youre experiences so we may ride shotgun with u on your journey to wonderland..
    Thank you for youre contributions
    With admiration .Spdricer
     
  7. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    Chill i didn't mean it in an offensive way.

    So as suspected, i had the signal wire grounded instead of returning to the ms3 signal return line. Fortunately i already soldered on a wire for the signal return pin to the ms3 so all i had to do was unbolt it from the ground point and connect it to the gray/red wire from the engine harness.

    The good news is that the intake/coolant temp sensors work and read accurately.
    The bad news is that my TPS got zapped from being grounded out so i need a new TPS.
     

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  8. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    Wondering if you are using the gm intake temp sensor? Is the ford ecu reading it correctly?
     
  9. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    As of right now the ford ecu isnt connected to the air, coolant or throttle sensor.

    As long as i keep the megasquirt there is no need for the stock ecu to read intake temps or throttle position. I have a manual valvebody. The only thing i need the stock computer for is for the odometer and fuel level.

    I will install a 2nd coolant sensor and run wires to the ford ecu just for the dummy gauge on the dash.
     
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  10. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    So the ms3 is controlling spark? How is that set up?
     
  11. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    One acronyn: EDIS (electronic distributorless ignition module). I love it, its so simple. You run the crank sensor wires to the edis. From the edis to the megasquirt is two wires. One wire is "pip" ( profile ignition pickup) the other wire is "saw"(spark angle word).

    The pip is the rpm signal to the megasquirt. The saw signal comes from the megasquirt to the edis and tells the edis how much timing to advance.

    If you didnt connect the edis to anything, it will generate its own spark and run the engine at 10 degrees btdc. This is actually how you check timing. You disconnect the SAW wire and use a timing light to verify the spark is at 10 degrees btdc while the engine is running.

    So you have 9 wires total. Two crank wires, two signal wires to the ms3. Three coil wires. Then power and ground.

    The downside to edis ignition is that you cannot use a 2-step via the megasquirt to cut spark. Ive heard of "n2mb wot boxes" that work with ford ignition systems to cut spark for 2 step. That may be an option. But it would probably be simpler to wire in 6 LS style coils and fire each cylinder individually via the ms3. If you do individual coils you can use the 2-step feature.
     
  12. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    That's pretty cool. You cant check the 03 mustangs timing with a light, really no need to though. n2mb works great.I've had mine on for years and no issues. It's wired to the trans-brake for activation.