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05 v6 mustang turbo build.

Discussion in '2005-2010 V6 Mustang Tech' started by 20Mustang05, Dec 15, 2016.

  1. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    Alright guys so im beginning to gather parts for my turbo build any help or anything would be appreciated, a couple questions i do have is how do i go about moving the degas bottle and the solution for the lower radiator hose with the t off to the degas bottle. Also when hooking up the vaccum lines for the bov and the boost gauge would a vaccum block be best and then where would the best place to pull vaccum be? Also any suggestions or ideas you can think of let me know.
     
  2. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    GT3582 Universal Turbo Turbocharger Turbolader T3 Flange 4 Bolts A/R.7 400-600HP
    Cx racing intercooler kit
    Gt500 slot style maf
    Ford 39 lb injectors
    dual 3 inch exhuast unsure on what mufflers to chose
    44 mm waste gate
    50 mm bov
    Boost, afr, intake and exhaust temp gauges
    One piece aluminum driveshaft
    Sct x4
    Going to be dyno tuned by a local shop.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    I'd suggest 60lb injectors with that turbo.
     
  4. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    That's what i thought but the tuner i spoke with said 39lb would be better
     
  5. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    He stated itd be over kill for the boost level i was looking to reach, the goal is to boost at 12 psi, after doing headstuds and a new headgasket. Rear end has already been swapped and earlier this year i installed a stage 2 spec clutch hopefully it holds. My end goal is a car that performs good on the street and can take it to the track shooting for as close to 400 rwhp as possible.
     
  6. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    At this point the 60# injectors should be affordable, and they would offer a decent margin for duty cycle.

    You would want mufflers of the "turbo" type, ie magnaflow. Chambered mufflers will tend to cause excessive back pressure at the turbine discharge.
     
  7. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    He is correct that 39s will have you covered at 12psi but what happens 1 year, or two years down the road when you want to crank it up or make a glory pass. From my exp youre starting out at around 70-80% duty cycle with 39s. 370rwhp and they were done on my engine.
     
  8. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    Okay so 60lb injectors and call it good, over on mustang collective they talk about upgrading wiring to lower duty cycle percentage any information on that?
    And would roush axle backs work for exhaust? I like their tone and sound.
     
  9. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Was the wiring upgrade in the context of fuel pumps? Its not uncommon to setup a heavy gauge supply to the fuel pumps. It helps with the current draw.
     
  10. canisitnx2ugurl

    canisitnx2ugurl Member

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    Impressive info glad I seen your work. Imitation is the highest form.
     
  11. 20Mustang05

    20Mustang05 New Member

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    Not sure what you mean by this
     
  12. canisitnx2ugurl

    canisitnx2ugurl Member

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    Thanks for the information. I am really disappointed with the spell check. Sorry
     
  13. 6 Shooter

    6 Shooter Well-Known Member

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    60s definately. Just as easy to tune them as the 39s. Plus there will be a margin of safety in terms of fuel delivery with 12 psi which will likely get you north of 400whp. The key is injector duty cycle to where you never exceed 80% at 6000+ and WOT.

    Now, if you are going to go for around 400 whp, a single Focus pump will not cut it on a returnless fuel system. Thus, for more fuel delivery (think about max duty cycle of 80% on the pumps as well at WOT and 6000 RPMs) the stock V-6 fuel pump wiring was never intended to put out 300% more fuel than stock. The stock pump wiring is (I think) 16 gauge. With a returnless fuel pump(s) setup, you need to run 12 gauge wires from the FPDM(s) directly to each pump. Plus, I ran 8 gauge wire from the fuse box to a relay and then 8 gauge all the way to the FPDMs. The reasoning is that twin pumps require a lot of voltage from the FPDMs and the wiring will get hot when going WOT. When wires get hot, they will not conduct as much voltage. When the voltage drops, then the fuel pressure will also drop from the pumps which will then drop the fuel pressure to the fuel injectors, (think your cylcinders) and detonation will occur.

    There is a second solution possible as well. You could modify the fuel system to go to a return style fuel system which requires a fuel regulator PLUS a return fuel line back to the fuel tank. Return fuel pumps do not require the same voltages at returnless pumps. Return pumps use less voltage as they run continuously (rather than being constantly bumped with voltage for the returnless pumps). Thus, the wiring to the pumps could be 12 or maybe 14 gauge wires. Plus, you would not need to use the FPDMs. You could use 12 gauge wire to a relay and keep the 16 gauge green/yellow stripe wire as the trigger wire for the relay. For this setup, Fore Innovations makes a great fuel pump hat and offers a variety of fuel pumps to accommodate your engines fuel needs. Their system uses a relay box and comes with wiring upgrades as well.

    Have wiring diagrams and instructions if you wish.