2000 V6 Mustang Turbo Build

Sideshow Bob

Active Member
Good score on that interior. I feel your pain on the exhaust I have two dynomax ultras And I'm going to put some kind of resonator behind the axles. I don't think you can have no restrictions on a turbo and sound like a stock car.
 

toph6888

Active Member
Nice pick up on the interior. BTW, I would highly suggest wrapping up that powersteering line wtih some heat shielding or wrap. Rubber fluid lines over exhaust = no no.
 

vsixxer24

Active Member
Right now its dumping at the feet of the drivers side, I have an existing magna flow cat back that I am going to connect to. Not sure what its going to sounds like but I hope quieter. Before I had a single 3" dump before at the rear axle and I swear I got a headache every time from all the vibrations and the fact it was never quiet. I don't mind the loud at the back of the car, I just don't want the loud in the cabin area.

I know what you mean about the headache, I was thinking of bringing the pipes to the side skirts like the '00 cobra or to the tail pipe. I dont have the cutouts tho for the tail tho. Are you going to be indpendent or X/H-pipe?
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Good score on that interior. I feel your pain on the exhaust I have two dynomax ultras And I'm going to put some kind of resonator behind the axles. I don't think you can have no restrictions on a turbo and sound like a stock car.
Thanks, on the interior, pretty excited. I am not sure what my car will sound like with my dual exhaust, my neighbor across the street is a bit turbo guy and he says I should never have any baffolds or restrictions in my exhaust, after the turbo you want a straight shot out. So my car has two sort of "glass pack" mufflers on the magnaflow setup I have, if I don't like the sound I am going to figure out a different exhaust. But I also have a cut out if I want to be loud and free flow so if I end up putting a baffled muffler on I will open the cutout when I want all the performance out of the car.

Nice pick up on the interior. BTW, I would highly suggest wrapping up that powersteering line with some heat shielding or wrap. Rubber fluid lines over exhaust = no no.
Thanks, Interior was definitely sheer luck that I found it all the cheap. I have the power steering line that comes out underneath the ps reservoir wrapped, and the clutch cable, not sure if the ps line that comes out the side of the reservoir needs the wrap, line is not too close to any of the exhaust.

I know what you mean about the headache, I was thinking of bringing the pipes to the side skirts like the '00 cobra or to the tail pipe. I dont have the cutouts tho for the tail tho. Are you going to be indpendent or X/H-pipe?
That would be pretty cool to see the pipes come out the side skirts, you don't see to many cars with that. I only have one pipe coming off the turbo so I am running single 3" to dual 2.5" so no x/h-pipe.
 

toph6888

Active Member
In regards to the powersteering line, it would be better to play it safe rather then sorry, a heat wrap for that line should be under $20.

In regards to exhaust, yes, you don't want regular mufflers behind it that cause back pressure, you want as free flowing an exhaust after the turbo as you can. I am putting glasspacks in mine as well. In regards to sound with mufflers, it pretty much sounds stock, even when I had the cam in it because the turbo abosorbs so much of the sound from the exhaust.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
In regards to the powersteering line, it would be better to play it safe rather then sorry, a heat wrap for that line should be under $20.

In regards to exhaust, yes, you don't want regular mufflers behind it that cause back pressure, you want as free flowing an exhaust after the turbo as you can. I am putting glasspacks in mine as well. In regards to sound with mufflers, it pretty much sounds stock, even when I had the cam in it because the turbo abosorbs so much of the sound from the exhaust.
Gotcha, that all makes sense, I ordered more wrap and I am going to wrap the lines as soon as it all comes in. The dual exhaust that I have now has straight through mufflers so no backpressure anywhere.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Have been doing odds and ends, to start, when it was 3 degrees outside I started up the car one day and noticed the flex pipe on the merge was leaking a ton so I ended up replacing that, I can definitely tell the spool is a little bit quicker now. I also finished my mid pipe from the dump (3 bolt flange) to my existing dual exhaust (V band). I like the sound much better than before, it s loud at the back of the car and not in the cabin. I also got a dual gauge pod for the cluster, I had the true boost and AFR down by the shifter but I could never look at it while boosting it was too low. So I moved it up by the cluster and I love it there. I finally figured out all my wiring by the shifter, for the past couple weeks I had wires spewing out of the shifter location. I ended up throwing in an analog Vac/ boost gauge where I used to have the truboost and AFR gauge. Analog is nice that at max boost the needle stays pinned whereas the truboost fluctuates so much its hard to get a reading. Lastly I found a Methanol dealer and I got some hospital grade meth.


This is the leaky flex pipe:

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The new one being welded in:

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The mid pipe with the Y pipe for DMH cutout:

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Shifter before:

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Shifter cleaned up a bit:

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Day shot of the cluster:

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Night shot of the cluster:

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Lastly, I have never know what this blue piece was for so I took it off, it is an egr bung.

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Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Hate to post so soon, but there is no easy way to say this.

Welp, the motor is dunzo. Ran it out of oil and there is no longer and oil pressure. I compression tested all the cylinders and I am at 175psi so I believe I still have compression and the rings are not fried, assuming the cam bearings and/ or the crank bearings are shot.


Well anyways time for another motor build. I purchased a set of internals awhile back, I am now just going to just build a 4.3 and just do everything brand new. I have a brand new 4.2 crank ready to be balanced, Wisco pistons, Scatt Rods, some bearings that came with it all.


I am going to pull the motor tonight and try and get my block into a shop tomorrow.


Towing the car back home

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Crank

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Here is a video of my car earlier this morning and after listening to it a bunch of times I now feel like I hear some squeaking, perhaps meatal on meatal. Anyways here is a video of the car running, I never got to show you all a video of an idle so I took one this morning. Sounds pretty cool with the 2step but sucks that I never even go the motor to full potential.



Lastly the worst video after I pulled over off the road.

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6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
In Texas, we fry burgers. You guys are frying motors. Whoa.

Seriously though, that is a terrible experience. Have spun a bearing in the past. It $UCK$.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
After investigation, it turns out all the teeth on the crank sensor gear grind down so the crank position sensor/ oil pump was no longer turning thus providing no oil through the engine. Also I found a crack in the cylinder wall and lastly found that 2 of the valves are loosing there ceramic coating.

Will post pictures in the AM.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
As mentioned late last night, the teeth on the crank position sensor gear got grind down some how to where it stopped grabbing thus stopped pumping oil through the motor. When I drained the oil it seems as if there was still a fair amount, the magnet on the oil pan plug had chunks of meatal on them which seem to have been the teeth off the gear. After taking the motor apart, it seemed as if a lot of the motor still had oil residual on it. My other big concern now is why my valves look the way they do. What seems to be ceramic coating on them is coming off, I don’t know what the cause of this would be, maybe the heads lifted? Not too sure. Another big concern is that the cylinder wall on the #1 cylinder I noticed a crack in the wall. Called a few places to see how much they would charge to get it re-sleeved and they told me it would be cheaper to get a new block. I still have yet to pull apart the bottom end and check out everything down there. So far the valve lifters, rods, and rockers all look to be alright, just need to order some new valves and I should still be able to use these heads.


The take down begins.

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First off, here is the gear that’s missing the teeth.

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Passenger side head.

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The drivers head, passenger head further back.

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Passengers side of the block.

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Drivers side of the block.

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Cylinder #1

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Shot of the cam.

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6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
The photo where you show a crack also, to me, shows part of the top edge of the piston burned or broken off. If it turns out to be true,, this would be detonation and if so, would be from lack of fuel from the tune, pumps, or injectors. A likely possibility in a turbo motor. So, what size of injectors were you using? What type of fuel system--returnless or return? How much did your fuel pump(s) flow? Can you get a copy of your tune to where I can view the borderline spark table AND the base fuel table to take a look-see?
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
The photo where you show a crack also, to me, shows part of the top edge of the piston burned or broken off. If it turns out to be true,, this would be detonation and if so, would be from lack of fuel from the tune, pumps, or injectors. A likely possibility in a turbo motor. So, what size of injectors were you using? What type of fuel system--returnless or return? How much did your fuel pump(s) flow? Can you get a copy of your tune to where I can view the borderline spark table AND the base fuel table to take a look-see?
Not too sure what your referring to about the piston, I cleaned the surface a bit more and took some closer up pictures. I have been running pretty rich, AFR has been 10.6ish at WOT and 12.8-13.2 at idle. I have simen delka 60# injectors, have a return system with FPR set at 40psi, I have an A-1000 so I have lots of fuel volume.
I am not to sure if I can get that but I can certainly ask for it. I have a few data-logs that I could email you if your interested.

Good eye 6 I see it too. Turbang 6 What did the plug on #1 look like?
I also attached a picture of the spark plug from cylinder 1.





 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
OK, guess I was seeing something in one of the photos that got cleaned up with a rag. Question, what heat range of plug were you using and at what gap? Second, the photo may be playing tricks on me again, but the piston diameter looks a bit small for the diameter of the cylinder. Would have to check with my builder for the best clearance number, but the gap between the piston and cylinder wall on the first photo in the group of 3 above looks larger than what I have seen on motors. The colors of the piston tops looks good. Another good thing is no markings of valves on the piston tops. Think I have a new set of 40 over Wiseco pistons. Will have to check.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
I can't remember the gap, but the guy at the parts store told me what to gap them too. They are the NTK 555r's I believe. I ended up buying a bare block and mains today and I am taking it into the machine shop in the morning.

Has anyone ever used KING bearings or heard of any such thing. I don't know what bearings I should use.
 
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