The color on that spark plug looks good. But by the photo it looks like it tried to close up on you. That could be detention, what gap is that? The King bearing is what supersix sells as a upgrade. So I'm thinking yes there good.
I can't remember the gap, but the guy at the parts store told me what to gap them too. They are the NTK 555r's I believe.
Thanks for all the info. Will the nascar bearings fit a stock 4.2 crank?One issue you may be having is noticeable on the spark plug. Think plugs with a heat range of 5 are the wrong number for a turbo setup. The ceramics will break and the plug tips will melt. You need a heat range of 7 with a turbo. Suggest you go with an NGK BR7EF plug. It comes gapped to about .028 and should be checked for that before installation. They are copper and about $2 each.
Also, when you get to putting a new motor back together, get a can of copper spray and spray the copper coating on the head gasket before installation. Will help to seal against water leaks plus the heads will be more resistant to lifting.
In your new motor, suggest you go with the NASCAR rated bearings for wear and durability. Can give you the part numbers.
I just took the block in, first off getting it magnafluxed then bored and honed, then balancing the crank, cleaning the block, and getting the cam bearings replaced he told me about two weeks to get it back. He told me he is really backed up and cannot assemble the engine until mid April. My neighbor is a big GN guy and he has assembled quite a few motors in the past, so I am just going to have him help me assemble it all. I also just ordered arp head studs this morning and I am going to be ditching the supercharger cam and going to be a turbo spec cam.Yep. In my 4.2L build in 2011, we used a Federal Mogul main bearing set (7295 MA) and a Federal Mogul rod bearing set (8-7155 CH) . The tolerances for both were between 0.0015" and 0.002" . IMHO building a motor to these tolerances is critical for both performance and longevity. The tolerances were checked with micrometer first, the verified with a plasti gauge at all journal locations. When you get to this point, would recommend you have a shop set up the crank and rod bearings to obtain the best precision.
I am from WI, where is dalke located?Where are you from? David Dalke Built my motor and told me he had my crank in and out a few times setting up the clearances. I also have a big name Buick v6 builder locak to me. But for these engines I believe Dalke is the most innovative and imo probably the best. Probably one of the best tuners for these engines as well.
Don't worry it's already been 3, my uncle's '00 ranger chewed up its cam synchro gear about a week or two ago too. his bearings are probably roasted. We're all in the clear.Man, I dont know why I didnt see this! That really sucks.. And yes, 2 down in a week.. hope not 3! I used kings bearings. Never heard of them before either but figured I give them a shot. With the new engine, I am using all clevite bearings. If your crank is new and you only need standard bearings I am using this set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms1812p for the mains and 6 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb831p for the rods.