2000 V6 Mustang Turbo Build

Sideshow Bob

Active Member
The color on that spark plug looks good. But by the photo it looks like it tried to close up on you. That could be detention, what gap is that? The King bearing is what supersix sells as a upgrade. So I'm thinking yes there good.
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
I can't remember the gap, but the guy at the parts store told me what to gap them too. They are the NTK 555r's I believe.

One issue you may be having is noticeable on the spark plug. Think plugs with a heat range of 5 are the wrong number for a turbo setup. The ceramics will break and the plug tips will melt. You need a heat range of 7 with a turbo. Suggest you go with an NGK BR7EF plug. It comes gapped to about .028 and should be checked for that before installation. They are copper and about $2 each.

Also, when you get to putting a new motor back together, get a can of copper spray and spray the copper coating on the head gasket before installation. Will help to seal against water leaks plus the heads will be more resistant to lifting.

In your new motor, suggest you go with the NASCAR rated bearings for wear and durability. Can give you the part numbers.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
One issue you may be having is noticeable on the spark plug. Think plugs with a heat range of 5 are the wrong number for a turbo setup. The ceramics will break and the plug tips will melt. You need a heat range of 7 with a turbo. Suggest you go with an NGK BR7EF plug. It comes gapped to about .028 and should be checked for that before installation. They are copper and about $2 each.

Also, when you get to putting a new motor back together, get a can of copper spray and spray the copper coating on the head gasket before installation. Will help to seal against water leaks plus the heads will be more resistant to lifting.

In your new motor, suggest you go with the NASCAR rated bearings for wear and durability. Can give you the part numbers.
Thanks for all the info. Will the nascar bearings fit a stock 4.2 crank?
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Yep. In my 4.2L build in 2011, we used a Federal Mogul main bearing set (7295 MA) and a Federal Mogul rod bearing set (8-7155 CH) . The tolerances for both were between 0.0015" and 0.002" . IMHO building a motor to these tolerances is critical for both performance and longevity. The tolerances were checked with micrometer first, the verified with a plasti gauge at all journal locations. When you get to this point, would recommend you have a shop set up the crank and rod bearings to obtain the best precision.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Yep. In my 4.2L build in 2011, we used a Federal Mogul main bearing set (7295 MA) and a Federal Mogul rod bearing set (8-7155 CH) . The tolerances for both were between 0.0015" and 0.002" . IMHO building a motor to these tolerances is critical for both performance and longevity. The tolerances were checked with micrometer first, the verified with a plasti gauge at all journal locations. When you get to this point, would recommend you have a shop set up the crank and rod bearings to obtain the best precision.
I just took the block in, first off getting it magnafluxed then bored and honed, then balancing the crank, cleaning the block, and getting the cam bearings replaced he told me about two weeks to get it back. He told me he is really backed up and cannot assemble the engine until mid April. My neighbor is a big GN guy and he has assembled quite a few motors in the past, so I am just going to have him help me assemble it all. I also just ordered arp head studs this morning and I am going to be ditching the supercharger cam and going to be a turbo spec cam.

Any suggestions on the cam? I'm Looking at a 220/220 550/550 114 lsa +4
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Just asking, but do you know what the +4 stands for? If the +4 is for a cam timing advance, you better ask a lot of questions. Think if I recall, that +4 cam would be more appropriate for a very high RPM motor. Think I recall that from a conversation in years past when looking to build a Salt Flats motor for a guy (which never happened).
 

JTsStang

Boosted V6
Where are you from? David Dalke Built my motor and told me he had my crank in and out a few times setting up the clearances. I also have a big name Buick v6 builder locak to me. But for these engines I believe Dalke is the most innovative and imo probably the best. Probably one of the best tuners for these engines as well.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Where are you from? David Dalke Built my motor and told me he had my crank in and out a few times setting up the clearances. I also have a big name Buick v6 builder locak to me. But for these engines I believe Dalke is the most innovative and imo probably the best. Probably one of the best tuners for these engines as well.
I am from WI, where is dalke located?
 

Markstang

Polishing my banhammer
Man, I dont know why I didnt see this! That really sucks.. And yes, 2 down in a week.. hope not 3! I used kings bearings. Never heard of them before either but figured I give them a shot. With the new engine, I am using all clevite bearings. If your crank is new and you only need standard bearings I am using this set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms1812p for the mains and 6 of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb831p for the rods.
Don't worry it's already been 3, my uncle's '00 ranger chewed up its cam synchro gear about a week or two ago too. his bearings are probably roasted. We're all in the clear.
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
As a few of you know, I am in the process of getting the block machined. I am looking to either buy and run a moran girdle or run 1/2 inch main studs without a girdle.
 

JTsStang

Boosted V6
I am now going to take some of this time to repaint the valve covers wrinkle black haha
I think it looks clean
IMG_20141214_134506_684.jpg
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Don't have too much to say other than ****! I ended up blowing $2200 on a new motor, that includes the price of machining and internals. So I re-used the super six heads that I had from the previous block. Was still in the break in period, maybe at the most had 500 miles on the new setup. Was just cruising down the road when all the sudden I heard clunk clunk clunk. I shut off the engine and coasted over to the side of the road. Ended up towing it home, now not only will my car not start, the tow dolly was higher than the car and when it went up on the dolly. the front bumper caught and bent in the radiator support. I took the car apart piece by piece to find out that a valve snapped and destroyed my head and my engine that I just spent all this money on. So not only is my engine ****ed, but so is the front end now. anyways. Not sure what I am going to even do at this point. Really depressing all the time and money into this car and I have nothing but a pile of broken parts to show for it. Anyways, you can check out the photobuket and look at the pictures of the re build and the destruction.

Front end.





Here is the first sight.



Here is the Head.



Here is the Piston.
 

JTsStang

Boosted V6
Sorry man. I know that's got to be a big let down. What would cause this? Piston to valve clearance wasn't correct?
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Man that sucks. Did you go with that +4 degree cam? Did you do the math to make sure there was no coil bind? Did you take measurements to be sure your pushrods were the proper length? Did just the valve stem snap? Did the valve seat come out and break apart?

BTW, the head is quite repairable--Contact Ferry Aluminum in Mesquite, Texas. Ask for John. If your heads are ported and you wish to bring the motor back to life, you could find just one head and have someone port it to the same as the other good head. Otherwise, it may be cheaper to have the head repaired. This shop is quite well known for working on this broken stuff. I visit the shop weekly and see lots of blown up heads and blocks with a lot more damage than shown in your photo. Basically, the weld up the damage and re-machine the surfaces and install new valve seats. A call can get you and estimated cost for repair.

If your heads are stock, would be easy to find another. Think I have a spear set of stock heads in the attic. Could have 3 heads, just need to check.
 
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