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2001 D.I.Y. Holset Build

Discussion in 'Personal Projects and Builds' started by mustang024, Jan 25, 2013.

  1. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    hello All,

    Since I am now a member over here and this place has the last of our breed ( v6 mustang performance enthusiasts) I figured it's time to post my build over here. I will warn you though it is a slowwww go. I wanted to get her done for the spring, but I don't have a garage and it's balls cold out here!! It's a low buck project, I won't be looking to spend more than 3k which includes the car. Goal is 12-14 psi and about 375rwhp. When she blows then I will go forged stroker and better turbo:evil:

    Mods List
    2001 5 Speed w/71k miles. $900
    PLastiDip paint Job $60
    Hy35 $250 ( one had a cracked turbine housing) Now have replacements wheels
    Seimens Deka 60lb. $200
    SVT Focus pump $60 (used)
    Wyntonm BOV $35
    Wyntonm Gate $65
    Cx racing IC $85
    3" IC piping kit $99
    2.5" mild steel bends $55 great deals on ebay
    2.5" Wyntonm Vbands $50 (good quality the rings were true)
    -4an feed and hose $30 Innovate LC wideband $149
    Total so far $2038
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2013
  2. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    So that leaves me with $962 to get the remaining parts which are.

    Remaining Parts

    x2 3" Vbands
    5 bolts holset flange
    3" exhaust piping
    x2 02 bungs
    T3 -10an flange w/hose
    MoatesQuarter Horse Tuning

    I think i can achieve this goal and possibly a brake job with it!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2013
  3. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Like I said it's a slow go but I am getting there. The turbo is located that far foward because I have ABS and I don't feel like messing with it. Also the hood does close and that grounding strap will be relocated and I will nip that piece in front of the comp housing. I set it up this way because I plan to put the windstar upper on, but first I want to get her running stock everything. I will wrap the IC piping around where the AC/tensioner pullies used to be. Then it won't be much modding when the windstar goes on.
    [​IMG]
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    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2013
  4. SlowSix01

    SlowSix01 Active Member

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    last pics don't work for me, but this is awesome.
     
  5. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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  6. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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  7. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    Looks good. Get you a wire brush wheel for your grinder and do work on that compressor cover. A little bit of brake cleaner will clean it right up!
     
  8. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Really itching to get this done..wanna enjoy her for the summer. I ordered 8ft of 3" and like 6 assorted bends holset downpipe flange and bungs for $195.

    Remaining Parts
    x2 3" Vbands
    T3 -10an flange w/hose
    MoatesQuarter Horse Tuning

    Leaves me with $767 left.
     
  9. toph6888

    toph6888 Active Member

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    Nice build man looks sweet. Should put down some good power.
     
  10. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Well figured I will give an update. I ordered the two 3" v-bands for $58.00, this leaves me with $709 left.

    Parts need:

    Exhaust Wrap
    10an T3 Flange and hose.
    Moates QuarterHorse
    Misc things I am probably forgetting.

    Bad news I ran a tap to clean up threads on the turbine housing like a schmuck I snapped the tap off in the housing backing it out! Didn't realize they made an extractor for this type of thing and proceeded to use needle nose pliers to back her out. It did not work so i tried to drill and hit it with a punch to chip away at the tap. Well this was a pain in the ass and I couldn't get it out or drill it out for the life of me.

    Good news is I finished enlarging the manifold bolt holes, so now it bolts up. When I built this like a newb, didn't build it on a jig or spare head so the first primary on the pass. side was off. When I build Version 2, I now know how to tackle these things. This is a big undertaking especially building the kit yourself.

    So I put the housing in the oven preheated it and hit it with the map torch, filled the hole with the tap in it with my MIG then back in the oven annd brought it down over the next couple hours. So I now will weld a stud to the initial weld and countersink the back of the downpipe flange so it sits flush on the housing Will see how long it holds up after the turbo heat cycles a bunch of times plus vibration. I think it should be alright. Once it fails, it will help me justify buying a better unit in the future.
    Hopefully my V-bands show up before the weekend so I can knock out the downpipe and exhaust. Then when that is done I can figure out where to run the o2 sensors.

    Question for you guys, I am going to run the downpipe and exhaust down the passenger side. Then plan is to run a short exhaust section with a side exit under the side skirt. Should I be concerned with running the exhaust under the fuel lines???

    Also I want to get rid of the studs on the heads and run hex bolts. Anyone know what size to run?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 18, 2013
    Spdricer likes this.
  11. toph6888

    toph6888 Active Member

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    Looking good! By studs I'm assuming you mean the exhaust header studs.

    I went and bout bolts/regular washers/locking washers, and if I remember correctly they were M8x1.25 60mm but you can take one of the studs with you to homedepot or lowes and check it there too
     
  12. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    414.jpg 413.jpg 394.jpg 389.jpg
    Well here is what I did today to salvage this exhaust housing.Cut the head off the M8 1.25 bolt and welded it to the housing. It is welded to mild steel under it, its not welded to the cast iron housing. Like I said, don't know how long this will hold up with heat cycling and vibrations. Hopefully she lasts until I want to upgrade to a bigger turbo. That probably wont happen til I get a forged rotating assembly.

    I have to get a grinding bit for my dremel and grind down the built up weld. Then countersink the bottom of downpipe flange so it sits flush on the housing. My vbands for the exhaust should be in tomorrow so hopefully I can tackle the exhaust this weekend.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 20, 2013
  13. JTsStang

    JTsStang Boosted V6

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    As long as it works nothing wrong with that. I'm in the garage today working on my turbo setup. Rebuilt my pass side header cause the old was constantly burning wires.
     
  14. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Got out there today and started on the down pipe. I am going to have to do a little "massaging" with a BFH, in some areas for clearance. It is rubbing near the back primary and the starter. I don't know how you guys get these 3" pipes snaked through the driver side, because the pass side is tight too. I ran out of wire just as I was about to tack a pipe past the starter, so gotta wait til end of week to get back on it. Really making some good progress now though, back in the groove of trying to knock this out.

    I kept the downpipe as close to the shock tower as possibly, I know JT and Ron have burnt up a few spark plug wires having it too close. It's about a 1/4" from shock tower so hoping this shouldn't hit from engine movement.

    002.jpg 003.jpg 006.jpg 007.jpg 008.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 23, 2013
  15. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Finally got the downpipe completed, just have to weld both flanges completely. I was running out of daylight, so I decided to pack it in. I want to take my time with those flanges because I don't want them to warp. I have to get hangers for the exhaust. Where are you guys mounting the exhaust hangers... on the frame? I am going to have a side exit exhaust and dump it in front of the passenger side rear tire.

    Downpipe complete.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 28, 2013
  16. greensteeda

    greensteeda Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!

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    Looks good. I put one hanger on the transmission cross member and one on the unibody/frame. As long as you have a bushing between the exhaust and whatever it is mounting to, you will be in good shape.
     
  17. SlowSix01

    SlowSix01 Active Member

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    self tapping hangers with rubber bushings is what the guy that does my exhaust work typically uses
     
  18. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Anyone mount their IC like this?? I was thinking about doing it this way, I would like to retain the bumper support for safety. I am just concerned about airflow, but if terminator guys are doing it with roots blowers it should suffice.

    0527091743.jpg
     
  19. mustang024

    mustang024 Active Member

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    Well keeping the bumper support for safety went out the window lol. Got crackin on the cold side need a 3" to 2.5" reducer to connect to the throttle body and get a MAF Flange TIG'd in and the cold side should be done. I cut a portion of the bumper bar and drilled two holes in the top to mount the intercooler. I need to weld two supports on the bottom of the radiator support to make the installation solid. Test fit the bumper and everything fits, need to do some minor trimming but all and all I am happy with it.

    I really like having the IC out that far so it gets plenty of airflow and that it won't be trading heat with the radiator.

    Where should I mount the Blow Off Valve, closer to the compressor before the IC would be better right?
    015.jpg
    IC2.jpg
    IC 1.jpg
    IC 3.jpg
    020.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 4, 2013
  20. greensteeda

    greensteeda Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!

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    Keep the bumper support. Unless you cut a bunch of holes in the bumper, you won't get airflow there anyway. Mine cools just fine behind the bumper support on a road course for 30+ minutes at a time.

    And yes, you should have the BOV between the compressor and intercooler.