2001 v6 turbo build

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
I bought v6 procharged mustang at the beginning of this year , was cool to get to meet him and norrism . It's a 2001 with 4.3 forged stroker. With the car he also sold me a tma turbo kit with a 6266 turbo... I started with swapping out the old procharger cam for a new comp cams 220/220 550/550 114lsa +4 , the install went alright except I found a crack in the timing cover , luckily had a spare laying around. Then I took off Mac long tubes and full exhaust and installed the swaintech coated hot side. Once turbo was all installed it was time for some fuel so I got a division x hat in a cobra fuel tank and dual 430lph pumps, ran -8 an feed and -6 return.. for a fuel rail I customized an f150 rail as it was double the volume of a stock rail . Then ran an aermotive regulator and id1000s on e85 ... Proceeded to get my dual dynomax ultra flow ss exhaust welded up ... I went for a dyno tune and I blew up 3 and 4 gear on the way to the dyno. So I dynoed in 2nd and made 454/414 on 16psi and a pegged Sctba3000. I have since been thru three more transmission s and now waiting for my torque converter to be repaired... I will try to consistently keep this thread going , definitely couldn't have got this all done without the help of Turbang_6
 

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
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BRN2RUN

Active Member
Nice! Yeah, Turbang 6 and guys like 6 Shooter really have contributed tons of great info on a turboed setup. I congratulate all the turbo guys on here, because it's far easier just to put a ProCharger on it and go that route (though that is a great decision, as well).
 

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
Yea kinda just going all out on this build ultimate goal is to hit 800 .... Lol it's already wicked fast
 

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
I'm glad to see someone on here got his car and is finishing it. How do you keep blowing the transmission?
much power problems have blown out direct drive in one , servo ring in another, input shaft in another , now just got converter back that I grenades the stator and clutch along with twisting splines
 

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
As stated I have a coolant issue I decided it was a good idea to boost 28psi , blew a freeze plug , fixed it .... Well took it out for a test drive and blew my radiator apart , ends up after a compression test I blew a head gasket , so tear down to start on the 22nd, also bought a fully welded radiator
 

99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
With spring here I figure I'll update you all on what's happening with car , last year I blew another head gasket and saw I had main caps that were rattling so I sent engine off for a fresh rebuild , I got mains and heads drilled out for 1/2 hardware , made a custom 5/8 main girdle , got a fresh set of heads ported , 918 springs , and am o ringing heads , along with adding a tubular k member , a arms , bilstein coil overs , and a panhard bar
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Great job. Better look into a 3 clutch torque converter. Call these guys and tell them what your motor puts out. http://www.converter.com/ Have not blowed up or messed up my torque converter yet.

On second thought, several more suggestions. Make sure that the rods and counter weights do not smack into the girdle. Make sure to test fit the oil pan. Make sure to test fit the oil dipstick tube. My dip stick tube did not fit correctly and the dip stick and tube kept bumping into the counter weights and girdle. Solved the problem by cutting off the bottom of the dip stick tube and welding a threaded tube on the top. Now, use a brass cap and the dip stick does not stay in the motor, just in the trunk. Check oil from time to time by inserting the dip stick when needed, test the oil level, then pull the dip stick and screw on the cap. Not perfect, but it works and no broken tube or dipstick parts in the bottom of the oil pan.

Also, suggest you check into an SFI approved flex plate. Safer. Same with a BHJ harmonic balancer. Both stock parts will fail at high boost and HP levels.

Another suggestion would be to get 1.3" outside diameter harden washers that are .120" thick with half inch holes. They will help spread out the clamping pressure from the torque of the nuts and help prevent heads from lifting. ARP sells them if you are using ARP head studs.
 
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99oldhorse

Well-Known Member
Great job. Better look into a 3 clutch torque converter. Call these guys and tell them what your motor puts out. http://www.converter.com/ Have not blowed up or messed up my torque converter yet.

On second thought, several more suggestions. Make sure that the rods and counter weights do not smack into the girdle. Make sure to test fit the oil pan. Make sure to test fit the oil dipstick tube. My dip stick tube did not fit correctly and the dip stick and tube kept bumping into the counter weights and girdle. Solved the problem by cutting off the bottom of the dip stick tube and welding a threaded tube on the top. Now, use a brass cap and the dip stick does not stay in the motor, just in the trunk. Check oil from time to time by inserting the dip stick when needed, test the oil level, then pull the dip stick and screw on the cap. Not perfect, but it works and no broken tube or dipstick parts in the bottom of the oil pan.

Also, suggest you check into an SFI approved flex plate. Safer. Same with a BHJ harmonic balancer. Both stock parts will fail at high boost and HP levels.

Another suggestion would be to get 1.3" outside diameter harden washers that are .120" thick with half inch holes. They will help spread out the clamping pressure from the torque of the nuts and help prevent heads from lifting. ARP sells them if you are using ARP head studs.
, converter is a non lockup 4400 stall ptc , I also have sfi flex plate , as far as the girdle the oil pan and all was clayed to check for clearances , everything checks out. Dipstick tube I haven't checked yet but was on my list , also those are the washers I have for heads ... I have never heard of bhj harmonic balancer but shooting for 800-850whp
 

JTsStang

Boosted V6
Great job. Better look into a 3 clutch torque converter. Call these guys and tell them what your motor puts out. http://www.converter.com/ Have not blowed up or messed up my torque converter yet.

How much does your pi converter slip? Do you lock it at full boost? You can log tq converter actual slip in rpm. I do not lock my converter under wot because it slows the car down. Pulls rpm down to far out of power range. It's a single disc with mechanical diode instead of a sprag built for 1000hp built by edge.

A lot of people say ptc make a very good turbo converter. It's a 9.5" but they use a Nissan core instead of the gm 245mm core on their turbo converter. You have those numbers stamped on the case, you could call ptc and found out exactly what you have Jeff.
 
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