2004 3.8L Struggling W/ P0175 Code For Months

SVT232V6

Member
Edited post because I ‘thought’ I had a lead but turned out to not be so.

I didn’t exactly quite understand the FSM instructions on how to test the parts...so I sorta improvised a little. I did an ohm resistance test on each coil, started with the far right pin then tested each pin over. All 3 coils were either .7 or .8 for all 3. Reinstalled the OEM coil and ran the car. Had 13v coming from the ignition power wire. Tried swapping spark plug wire positions on the coil and engine ran the same. Pulled the spark plug wire for cylinder 4 at the coil and car ran just a bit worse so I ruled out the ignition system. I pulled and connector again for the #4 fuel injector and there was no difference in how the engine was idling. Got my cheap $11 fuel injector cleaning rig from eBay out and plugged it into my fuel injector. Tapped the leads on the battery and the engine nearly stalled. Saw my fuel trims go rich and Bank 2 Sensor 2 at over .750v indicating more fuel in the exhaust gasses. Let the car sit for a couple of hours. Retested the fuel injectors by disconnecting the #4 and #6 injectors and the idle got worse each time. I’m getting more and more confused. Going to re-read those FSM pages.
 
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Serpent

Active Member
was rereading this post to look at all the things you have done. I noticed you said that the car was running fine, then it was painted, then it was missing. what happened to the car around the time it was painted? did anyone else do anything while it was being painted and were they under the hood for any reason?
 

SVT232V6

Member
was rereading this post to look at all the things you have done. I noticed you said that the car was running fine, then it was painted, then it was missing. what happened to the car around the time it was painted? did anyone else do anything while it was being painted and were they under the hood for any reason?

The car sat for a few months and lost battery power. Took some jumping and charging to get it back up and running. No one touched it as far as I know.

Also to update, I took a circuit tester and the injectors are getting a pulse signal from the PCM. Harness has ground and power. There are no shorts I’m aware of after doing a voltage drop test at the battery.
 

SVT232V6

Member
So after a few days of driving, the codes are gone. If I start he car and let it idle, it idles good. Fuel pressure remains between 37-40psi steady with no popping. Fuel pressure starts rising to over 60psi after getting on the throttle for some reason and the popping starts happening. I think I’m going to start another thread though as I think the excessively high fuel pressure is the actual reason why I may have had those Rich codes to begin with. Aloha and thank you guys! If I do fix this issue though, I will report it on this thread. You never know what comes up on Google search lol
 

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