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2014 Lowered Mustang Clunking Noise

Discussion in '2011-2014 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Brent, Jan 20, 2014.

  1. Brent

    Brent Owner Staff Member

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    This was posted via @Duggie

    The reason for writing on this topic is that I have read about this clunking noise after lowering some of the Mustangs from a lot of people that said it is a trade off and just put the volume on the radio higher. Well I thought there has to be a better solution to the problem.

    I have a 2014 Mustang and didn't like the body roll , the dipping when braking and hitting the gas hard and tire spin. I didn't like the stance of the car also but knew it could changed. I installed the Eibach Pro Spring Kit along with the Lower Control Arms and J&M Panhard Bar. All I can say is wow. No more body roll, car jumping up when hitting the gas and tire spin about gone. The car hooks up very fast and the ride is totally different now, should come that way from the factory.

    The only problem I had was, that dang clunking noise coming from the passenger side rear. The noise drove me nuts plus I felt like I messed up my new car, not to mention what my wife had to say. I call American Muscle Car and they told me easy fix, one of three things could be the problem. The rubber seat were worn out, the spring stops were not change out that came with the kit or the spring were not seated right. I went back to the shop put the car on the lift and all three items were checked out, nothing wrong. We all looked at each other very puzzled. Jason who installed the kit went over each nut and bolt. The adjustment nuts were checked on the Panhard Bar and he was able to put an 1/8 turn on the passenger side. He didn't think that would matter at all. Well we took the car out and I let him drive so he could hear the noise, it was gone. Looked at each other in shock that that 1/8 turn of the wrench did the trick.

    Also when I was researching about the Springs Kit I found only one article the put in touch with a video where it stated that you need to change out the stock Panhard Bar due to the extra stress and movement of the rear axle. You can find that on American Muscle Car web site. I hope this helps with some of the people who are having this problem.

    dec car with Throdlle Body 088.JPG
     
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  2. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    It looks like you did not use brackets when you lowered your pony, why?
     
  3. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    The kit for the both front and rear sway bars comes complete with all you need. I believe what you are talking about are the thick aluminum bracket holding the sway bar. There were stock one there that were very thin in place of those. I do believe I have photos of the stock sway bar that were on after I installed the springs.
     

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  4. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    The suspension was installed at a shop and Eibach Pro Spring Kit comes with all needed parts . If you can tell which brackets you are referring to I may be able to explain the question about the brackets. Everything there replaced the stocks parts , nothing was deleted. Sure made for a smoother ride.
     
  5. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    I'm referring to LCA brackets. They lower the lower control arms.
     
  6. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    The Lower Control Arms were installed using the brackets that are attached to the stock rear. The stock LCA were made of two pieces metal stamped together with a slot made into them for the brake cable. The new LCA were about a 1 & 1/2 " shorter , solid round bar and heavier than the stock one by far . The first photo you can see the big change from stock to J&M Lower Control Arm. The cut in the slot where the brake cable went through was made so we didn't have to undo the brake cables. You can see in the photo the make up of the rear and how each part is bolted to the rear. No alterations were done to the stock LCA Bracket. Hope this helps.
     

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  7. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    Ok Duggie, I used Whiteline lowering brackets when I did just rear springs.
     
  8. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    I got it now , to be honest with you I didn't know there was a lowering bracket when I done my springs. I used a Eibach Pro Spring Kit and Sway Bar Kit. So I thought if I needed a different Bracket it would of came with the Spring Kit. I didn't pick up on the LCA needing this Bracket because between the new LCA using the stock rear axle housing bracket, the Sway Bars, J&M Panhard Bar and Springs it stopped all the wheel hop.
    Thanks for telling me about these brackets Because when I went to look at some photos of them I also saw the Upper Control Arm on top of the rear housing. upload_2014-2-1_21-50-12.png it's a lot heavier than the stock one. If you can help me with this question, is the reason for changing out these 3 Control Arms with the Brackets other than the wheel hop issue is it to help with the added stress put on stock parts due to lowing the car? Do you have any photos of your setup ? Please get back with me on this because if your answer is yes than I need to change the brackets out also.
     
  9. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    Duggie, the bracket change is necessary to correct pinion angle as it relates to the driveshaft. Some people find a noise coming from their shaft after 2,000 miles and have to replace their stock shaft and get an adjustable UCA to correct the pinion angle, research it. You may be ok, I'd get the lca brackets.
     
  10. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Thanks for the information. I think I will get all three bracket to be sure it's done right. Down the road I will be getting a new 1 pc. Drive Shaft. The car is new and I want it done right . My goal was to buy a Basic model with a power seat and synic and then add mods to make it better than the Pony version. I priced out the Pony and it was approx. 29k . With my budget I'm right about there with all the mods in & out and it is sure upgraded more then any Pony. I installed my hood scoop last week and only have now my side vents plus now the LCA Brackets. That will be it for now. I figured if would have gotten a GT I still would of had still added many of the same mods. I don't think 30k is a bad price for a good sports car that handles great and plenty of power.
     

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  11. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    I agree, I'm in 1,050 dollars in mods after my SCT tuner purchase and am very satisfied with the mpg & Hp.
     
  12. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    I have a question about the lower control arm brackets we talked about earlier. I went to my shop and asked them about the upper and lower control arm brackets after talking to you . I told them that I was going to purchase them and I need a price for the install, I'm disable and so things I just can't do. They told me that I didn't need them because with using the Eibach Pro Spring kit it only lowered the car approx. a little more then a inch in the rear and didn't need them because the angle of the rear didn't change that much .
    I looked at some photos of cars that had them and could see how much lower the placement of the lower control arm brackets are. Also their cars seemed to be lower than mine. If you remember I told you that my car was new and I wanted to do it right. What is your thought on what I was told? I can see where it would be better to have them if the Spring Kit was more radical but the Pro Spring Kit is very mild when it comes to lowering the car. I really would like to hear your opinion .
    Went to the track to see how my car would run with the mods I have so far, I have to say first I used my stock 255/60 tires and even after dropping the air pressure down to 17lbs. I still spun a lot in first and second gear and had to pedal the gas also I had a new Hybird Tune sent to me Bama but had trouble down loading from by PC to the Tuner. So I was running a slower Tune to try to get some traction. I was hoping to get in the 13s but the odds were against me . Now remember I have not been to the drag strip in 38 years and I don't street race. The first time was a 14.862 at 98.39 mph tires at 20lbs pressure , second 14.651 at 99.02. Dropped the air pressure down to 17lbs. came off the line easier to try to cut down on tire spin ran 14.338 at 99.11 mph.
    Now the best for last a 2013 Mustang GT came up to us in the staging area and wanted to race my car. We said ok just to see how much a GT would beat us in the 1/4 mile in a heads up race. Well it was my son's turn to drive and he is very good at the line. We ran a 14.060 at 100.52 mph plus we beat the GT !!!!! I was very happy because I built my car following a plan in hopes to run in the 13s I can say with the right tires and down loading my Tune that should not be a problem . Weather and Track conditions, it rained all day , it was night time racing high 60s to low 70s a lot of humidity and damp. They had to stop racing after the first hour to dry down the track in one area because cars and one time my car would start to go sideways . I felt bad for the guy in the GT we beat because he was with friends and had to hang his head low. Was my car faster then the GT no, we beat him on driving skill but a win is a win . We have a video of the race and posted it on youtube
     
  13. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    That's great, I believe your pony will be fine with the mild drop. Nice race as well!
     
  14. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Please help me out here, like I said it's been 38 years last time I ran a Mustang down or any other car down the track to gat a time on it and I really only want to do this one more time to hit my goal of a 13.5 to 13.8
    You stated a " mild drop" not familiar with that term ( sorry for being a bit dumb ) but to me there is no stupid question. Here what I plan for my next time out.
    1. Down load the Hybird Tune Bama sent me to take care of my launch problem. They told me that will really help using this new Tune with the bogging issue.
    2. I need a set of tires, the stock tires spun first and second gear and had to pedal the gas until hitting third gear.
    3. Take a few more runs to see where to come out of the whole shot.
    4. Where to shift , was shifting at 6200 rpm. ( don't want to hurt anything ).

    Have you every brought your car to the track? I wouldn't mind any advise on the above. I don't want to buy and sticky tires or drag radials because I will not be running my car on the track, just doing it because I want to know if I can hit my goal and to answer the people that are interested in my build.
    I don't remember if I got back to you on the LCA Brackets. I went back to the shop and asked them if I needed to install the LCA Brackets and Upper Control Bracket. They told that with the Eibach Pro Spring Kit is NOT aggressive was less than 1.5 drop in the rear and the pitch or angel from the drive shaft to the rear end didn't require the Bracket. Can you tell me what Spring Kit you used and what was the drop on the rear of your car ? Now I did hear Eibach Sport Spring Kit that is a aggressive drop and that would require the Brackets. Waiting your reply, Thank you for you help.
     
  15. spaseghost

    spaseghost lamesauce

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    You don't need upper or lower control arm brackets, those are fixed to the axle and frame. You are referring to the actual control arms. Aftermarket ones are stiffer and have stiffer bushings, eliminating wheel hop and increasing traction, but also sacrificing ride quality. A tune wont help launch on a stock car, YOU make a good launch happen. Shift when you feel the power running out, a good tuner or datalogging device will help you out with this. These aren't leaf sprung rear axles, no need to shim them to maintain drivetrain geometry.
     
  16. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    As far as the launch we had a .002 reaction time on the light. At first we run a 14.8 with the race Tune that just didn't work due to bogging down at the launch, reset the Tune to the Performance Tune and drop the time down at first with a 14.3 second run 14.0 The Tune that I needed for the set up I couldn't down load from the PC to the programmer so that cause one problem with the setup with the mods I have.
    I want to thank you on the control arm brackets I had a couple different opinions on them . I installed J&M LCA on the rear with the J&M Panhard Bar. Someone had asked where were the brackets that bolt to the frame and lowing the position on the LCA I had posted. I only and a Eibach Sway Bar. I had posted pictures of the rear suspension setup. So glad to know I don't need them . The car rides very smooth with the setup I have and better than stock for sure when it comes to body roll.
    I have to say that I ran the two times the best I got was a 14.3. I'm disabled and my reaction time is not the greatest. My son ran my car 3 times and got the 14.0 and was the driving when this cocky kid with a 13 GT kept asking him for a race and my son is the one on the video beating the GT . He raced for a couple years running a 11 second 5.0 that he built. My son was only running maybe 90% because the car is only 6 mos. old and didn't want to break dad's car. Good son !! Next time out when we can get together again I just need to tell him to go for it. Even when I drove I can still hit the gears good but I didn't push it. No reason really because of the traction problem with the stock tires. I hope that a set of a softer compound 50 series will help.
    As far as stock I have the following:
    CAI, 73mm BBK TB, 3.73 Ford Racing Gears, BAMA Tuner, Barton Short Shifter & Double Post Shifting Bracket, Plus in a post above you can see the suspension setup. The Tuner didn't have the Tune I needed for that night as stated above.
    My goal is to make the time I hope to get with the mods that I researched when doing my build. I'm hopeful I can get a 13.9 and it would blow me away if we can get a 13.6 or better. Not for racing but for myself and having a hell of a lot of fun playing with this V6. By far the best Mustang out of 5 that I owned. Just don't why some people knock the hell out of you because you don't have a GT.
    Again thanks for your input and after reading this reply if you see something that I can work with , with the above mods feel free add. always willing to learn.
     
  17. audioAl

    audioAl Coyote Red

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    My drop is rear only 1.5" on Stack racing springs. Lower the pressure to 30 lbs in the rear tires for more grip.
     
  18. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    I run the pressure here in FL. at 28 psi because of the heat difference between day and night , Using the Tire Rack Tech Information .We started from there and dropped the pressure 3 times allowing to see how we would be at top end also keeping everything stable. had dropped the rear tire pressure down to 18-20psi . in the rear . It helped some but not much with the 3.73 gears . The car was still very stable at top end. My son told me that I need to get Racing Radials. I will be going only one or two more times to the track so no use for them, I'm just going to stagger the tires a run 50s on the rear. I just want to try to hit my goal with the mods I used. My focus is more on handling then racing. Like you said there is plenty of HP in these V6s. I never thought to get the outcome I did with a V6, They are so much fun to play with. One other BIG factor, my wife cut off my budget !!!!!! But she is a good woman !
    When I was 16 many years ago racing my 67 Fastback 298 I had let too much pressure out to hook up on day when the track was very slick. Dang that was scary at top end. Lesson learned . This was my 67. Did pretty good with it .
     

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  19. Bigshow14

    Bigshow14 Member

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    Take your wife to see need for speed, my budget went up and shes like what are you waiting for lets mod this car. I better hurry before this new burst of mod energy wears off. Lol!!!
     
  20. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Well my wife gave me the go ahead to try something new I think will make my suspension even better. We know the car will run in the 13s and that plenty fast enough for me . The balance between HP and suspension is almost right on target so my goals are complete. But I would like to max out the ride for handling and smoothness. I researched the idea of placing Air Lift Bags in the coils and found that the coils in the front of 1996 GMC Pickup Truck are the same size of the Eibach Pro Spring Kit for my car. Now I take off a extra 3/4 of a inch from those coil measurement to size up the bags and I'm good to go with my experiment. If you want I will let you know how it works out. Putting the bags in tomorrow.