Alast! My time has come! Engine swaparooski.

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    4

Spdricer

Active Member
So im trying to buy the direct fit northern radiator but theyre out of stock for a month...
I need to figure out a way to test my coolant temperature seperate from the sensors that run the guage in the car so i can be sure that i am actually over heating or im just getting a bad signal from the combination of ect and cht..
Im finally out of the hole that the holidays put me in and im starting to get back in the swing of things..
Turbang 6 has been kind enough to allow me to give him payments for his turbo set up so i almost done with that...
My speedometer is still a little off and even though my o/d light is out now the traction control off light is on regardless of how the switch is set ,not that i want traction control because i dont.. but maybe thats why im having so much trouble getting this thing to run like it used too...
Either way now i have a month until the radiator is supposed to be in stock and that dosent include if my distributer gets it and how long that takes..
Gonna start pulling out all the stops again this build has been put off and postponed long enough.
 

kitsune1324

Active Member
From what I've seen, temp gauges are pretty cheap. I believe I saw an Auto Meter temp gauge for $60.
Personally, I'd go with an electronic gauge that way you will have the most accurate temp since the temp reading comes directly from the sensor rather than having to move throughout the engine bay.

I'm assuming you've wired gauges before?
If not go ahead and grab a fuse tap like this: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Add-A-Ci...38760&wl11=online&wl12=47596458&wl13=&veh=sem). You can get full 12v power on its own seprate fuse which you can splice into and run to other gauges and ground in numerous places throughout the dash. I chose to ground my gauges to the fuse box under the dash.

If you don't an empty grommet to run wires through on the firewall you may be able to add your own small hole and put a rubber grommet on it. Some gauges come with the grommet to do so.
 

Spdricer

Active Member
From what I've seen, temp gauges are pretty cheap. I believe I saw an Auto Meter temp gauge for $60.
Personally, I'd go with an electronic gauge that way you will have the most accurate temp since the temp reading comes directly from the sensor rather than having to move throughout the engine bay.

I'm assuming you've wired gauges before?
If not go ahead and grab a fuse tap like this: (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Add-A-Ci...38760&wl11=online&wl12=47596458&wl13=&veh=sem). You can get full 12v power on its own seprate fuse which you can splice into and run to other gauges and ground in numerous places throughout the dash. I chose to ground my gauges to the fuse box under the dash.

If you don't an empty grommet to run wires through on the firewall you may be able to add your own small hole and put a rubber grommet on it. Some gauges come with the grommet to do so.

Thank you i will use that..
No i havent wired gauges before this is all a new experience for me
Everything i do is ghetto rigged...
Im really trying to advance from that habit...
Baby steps
 

Turbang_6

3.8 Turbo Build Under Way
Any luck with your overheating issue? I would start by replacing the thermostat and waterpump. Not too expensive, but will definitely much easier to replace without a turbo in front of it. ;)
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
When/if you go with extra gauges, suggest you to to Autozone and pick up a Mini Add-a-circuit (about 8-9$). It conveniently is installed in the fuse box under the driver's left knee. Will tell you which socket to stick it in as you should choose a socket that is switched (turns off with the ignition switch). The add a circuit uses two mini fuses, the stock fuse in the lower slot and the add on circuit for a temp gauge in the upper slot with a lead wire to give the gauge power. The ground wire can be attached to any grounded screw in the same area. BTW I use 4 of them--one for each gauge. There are other ways to wire up gauges and can give you some suggestions if needed.

IMHO, going turbo, you will not be able to run that setup without having extra gauges to view what is going on with the motor. An an absolute minimum, you will need a boost/vac gauge, a fuel pressure gauge, and an A/F wideband gauge that is hocked up to a data logger.

AutoMeter Instrument Cluster Bezels 10003

AutoMeter Steering Column Gauge Pods 10004

FORD MUSTANG Parts and Accessories - pillar-gauge Several options for this style. Would call them to get help to select the correct one.
 

Spdricer

Active Member
Any luck with your overheating issue? I would start by replacing the thermostat and waterpump. Not too expensive, but will definitely much easier to replace without a turbo in front of it. ;)

Thats true... thank you ill keep that in mind.. i just feel super dumb if i replace a perfectly good water pump ..i pulled the thermostat completely and it was still getting hot (according to my datalogger) but again i donno if that reading is accurate ..

6shooter thank you yes i will use that..
I decided to keep everything uniform i want only all AEM x series digital guages.. so hopefully according to my tracking number my AEM x series coolant temperature guage will come in the mail today so ill ask u which slot that is switched is best to use.. thank u..
When i get off work today me n a friend are going to the dragstrip to get a feel for it and get motivated to work on the stang hard this weekend
 

Spdricer

Active Member




So i hav these two items at house now i havent checked to see for sure if the sensor or the adapters that fit the sensor that came with the aem guage actually fit the housing that i bought seperately...
Im fairly certain that it will ..
The only thing now is to buy the mini fuse board and see if i can figure out how to wire it up..
About the guage pods i think im gonna hold off on that for a while i plan to just sit it temporarily by the shifter or the cup holder until i get all my guages in then im thinking i wanna put them all in a row along the center console facing the driver
I choose down low instead of up high and in the direct view because they are digital guages and they giv off light and im big on night time driving safety and not having any lights mess up my night vision
In miami with these bumpy roads at night i pays to be alert ..
And fog lights are your friend, having them mounted down low casts shadows behind the bumps making it a more effective purpose built hazard detection system..
I hav 2 wideband a/f ratio sensors in already and now the analog wire came in the mail im gonna try to get that spliced together today too..

So as soon as i get off work im going at it..

I should make a bumpersticker

"I say we build mustangs 5 days and work 2..."
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Any of the following fuses will work and turn off the gauge when the key is turned off so the battery will not run down.

17--Speed control Servo
24--Climate control blower motor
32--Ratio/CD player
36--Airbag Control module

The photo in the owners manual (page 121) is NOT oriented the same as the fuse box under the dash. The top row of the fuse box is closest to the driver. In the photo, the top row of the fuse box is at the top of the page, thus opposite reality. Sooo, be careful and read the numbers on the fuse box carefully. My best suggestion is to first use fuse number 36 which is in the left corner farthest away from the driver. Once other fuse numbers are needed, IMHO the best approach is to remove the drivers seat and lay upside down with a bright light to view the fuse numbers clearly to avoid mistakes.

Have a photo of my fuse box, but it is blurry and would need to take another photo. But, with 4 mini add a circuits, it begins to look cluttered and more difficult to read and interpret.

Another suggestion is to use the large rubber grommet just to the left of the vacuum brake booster and almost to the top of the firewall to install wires that connect inside the engine bay with gauges on the inside of the cockpit of the car. For first wire entry, generally, a slit in the rubber grommet works well to shove a wire or wiring harness through the hole.
 

Spdricer

Active Member
Any of the following fuses will work and turn off the gauge when the key is turned off so the battery will not run down.

17--Speed control Servo
24--Climate control blower motor
32--Ratio/CD player
36--Airbag Control module

The photo in the owners manual (page 121) is NOT oriented the same as the fuse box under the dash. The top row of the fuse box is closest to the driver. In the photo, the top row of the fuse box is at the top of the page, thus opposite reality. Sooo, be careful and read the numbers on the fuse box carefully. My best suggestion is to first use fuse number 36 which is in the left corner farthest away from the driver. Once other fuse numbers are needed, IMHO the best approach is to remove the drivers seat and lay upside down with a bright light to view the fuse numbers clearly to avoid mistakes.

Have a photo of my fuse box, but it is blurry and would need to take another photo. But, with 4 mini add a circuits, it begins to look cluttered and more difficult to read and interpret.

Another suggestion is to use the large rubber grommet just to the left of the vacuum brake booster and almost to the top of the firewall to install wires that connect inside the engine bay with gauges on the inside of the cockpit of the car. For first wire entry, generally, a slit in the rubber grommet works well to shove a wire or wiring harness through the hole.

Haha yes i have experience with this area of the car probably the absolute worst area to access in the whole car
When i put the clutch petal in i didnt take out the seat and needless to say it took alot of patience..
Im glad you mentioned that because i still have my racing bucket seats to swap over from the black car so ill start with taking them out
I see wat u mean about it being opposite in reality because im sticking my head in there instead of my feet lol

Cant wait to get started hav two more jobs to do though :stonk::cry:
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
im thinking i wanna put them all in a row along the center console facing the driver
I choose down low instead of up high and in the direct view because they are digital gauges and they giv off light and im big on night time driving safety and not having any lights mess up my night vision

Did this option a bunch of years ago and still like it. It's not too hard. Used a piece of aluminum and cut three 2 1/16' holes for mounting the gauges and painted the plate black. The hole used to have a large CD player which was removed and still sits in the attic. The center gauge is oil temp. The left gauge is functional, but rarely viewed. The right gauge is exhaust temp which is interesting but rarely viewed as the wideband O2 A/F gauge is much more practicable for a boosted motor. The trick in this project is getting a 2 1/16" hole cutter. Had one of these left over from my aircraft flying and maintenance days. INSTRUMENT HOLE PUNCH 2-1/4 AND 3-1/8 ( ATS-123C ) from Aircraft Spruce

You could probably just use a 2" circle cutter on a drill press and gradually open up the hole with a rat-tailed file.

 

Spdricer

Active Member
So i had an interesting weekend
First off i got the stand alone AEM temperature gauge working finally after alot of set backs
One weird thing that happened was i tried to ground the gauge to the screw that holds the fuse box under the dash.. now none of the fuses have power wen i poke them with the tester on a confirmed good ground but the radio and everything still seems to be working properly... so weird..

So i just ran two 14 guage wires from the battery and put a 30A fuse along the way even though the guage asks for a 5A.. i had a 30 around and this leaves me room to put more guages and its temporary until i figure out how to fix the fuse box mystery..
For now when i turn off the car i just unplugg the gauge.. because its not in a pod..

So anyways the stand alone gauge/sensor combo that has nothing to alter it or mislead me in anyway it is my benchmark my foundation never went higher than 145 degrees.. and my datalogger that is receiving a combined signal of two other seperate OEM temperature sensors was saying 185 or something in that range (which is weird too because i coulda sworn it was climbing much higher before ..maybe it was the thermostat after all) so im not to concerned about it now ..if it was the opposite and the computer was reading lower than actual temperature then i would be more concerned.. now all it does really is turn the fan on earlier... as long as it stays around 185 im good otherwise it starts pulling timing but it can be tuned around i suppose..

So now im gonna connect my air fuel sensors with the analog cable from sct and just use my tuner as a air fuel ratio guage

I also have a oil/fuel pressure AEM gauge that i will use for oil...
I will have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge under the hood and ill know my pressure in cabin by running the datalogger if i want
...i dont want too many gauges

Six shooter For the set up where ur gauges are first off it looks great but that is where i have my HVAC (a/c) controls ..and where my HVAC controls used to be is where my double din touchscreen is now so as nice as that looks . I cant

I was thinking mayb getting a pillar pod mount and somehow incorporating into the right side of the e brake on the center console or along the right side of the double din and a/c controls facing the driver... well see where that train takes me..

Right now my focus is getting it boosting
I promised myself i wouldent do anything cosmetic until im above bar:fuuu:

So this weekend will be the a/f gauge and if six shooter is available.. do tuning sessions with six shooter try to get it running n,a with no problems
Right now it drives ok but if i give it alot of load it fuel cuts so im assuming its all tune and everything is mechanically sound...
Well find out after this weekend hopefully..
 
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Spdricer

Active Member
Been doing remote tuning sessions with 6 shooter got the speedometer pretty close with 12 holes in the vss .
Still havent seen temps above 150 on the standalone temp sensor gonna try to get it dialed in n/a and drive it for a while i finish paying turbang6 so he can send me the rest of the kit and i can start piecing together my plan for all of that..
 

Spdricer

Active Member
so today we got alot done... the interiors are completely swapped the black interior that was in the black car is now in the white car and the tan interior that was in the white car is now in the black car the only thing that still remains is the door panels the steering wheel and of course ..the dash

for the dash i said that when everything was complete and the only thing left was the brown dash everytghing else was black .. i was gonna tape off everything really good spray it with a liquid rubber spray like flex seal but its just spray on rubber any walmart has it i sprayed this stuff on a company truck one day in the 0 of the truck number 104 ..any way these trucks go through hell and back and that stuff held strong no prep! . i was very impressed when i saw the truck 6 months later and this stuff was still holding strong and still black looking..

...any way tape off real good spray a light crinkle look over the tan and pull the tape and let it dry..

whats the worst that happens i was ready to swap the dashes anyways i always have the black one i could swap..

so i sorry i ment to get some pictures but anyways ill go next weekend and finish up the black interior install then i will tint the windows like 15 percent nice n black either a fat strip over the windshield or 35 percent the whole thing which would look sicker but then of course driving at night is already enough of a hazard as it is it wouldent be good to add to it maybe ill tint the upper half of the windshield 35% and also put a 5% strip at the top.... then i got some black bbs looking wheels that i want to complete the white and black look the only thing stopping me after that is the convertible top another thing that im considering spraying that spray rubber on lol
 
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Spdricer

Active Member
Got alot done on the stang this weekend mostly interior work
Did the door panels first end ed up having to trim some off because the old black car didnt have the upgraded bose stereo tweeters by the rear view mirrors that the white car has
Had to do alot of moddifications in regards to moving ac controls down and mounting a double din ment for 2 single dins.. to get the look that i want i did alot of cutting now i got to figure out a good way to mount it all up
Might try my hand at welding for this step..
Any way heres some pictures of the progress
The dash was sprayed with the spray rubber before we left the car for the week
So now everything's black inside the car
I just have to install the black after market steering wheel
And i forgot the door handles and some little strips when u get in are still tan
The door handles looked like too much work right now...
And the strips on the floorboard are glued on and that looks like pandoras box so i left it alone.. kinda nice actually little brown strip seperating the white and black im not in a hurry to change that
The handles look super tacky so ima spray it with that rubber spray too being that i only touch the inside of the handle anyways and that part you dont see so it wont get paint..

Got alot of wiring to do gotta get the stereo/dvd player working with all the speakers connected in the right places.. the microphone for the bluetooth phone option situated ect here some photos..







 
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