Anyone have head port pics?

Ok well I am not new to porting simply new to porting 3.8 splitport heads. I have ported many lower intakes, and upper intakes for other v6 mustang enthusiasts.

I am looking at porting some heads for my current car which has a ported lower with EGR and IMRCs removed and windstar upper. I also have a comp 218/226 cam with .500 lift.

I have read through tons of info on porting and have a extra set of heads I have been practing on. I am looking for pics of exhaust ports and ones that flow well and are not just opened up. I am looking for pics of long runner ports on intake side and both bowls worked.

Ok so I hope this does not get to long but from what I have read and learned this is what I was thinking. I know I need to smooth the radius on the short turn radius towards the valve and make it round instead of how it sends air towards the valve stem from factory. I know gasket matching intakes and leaving center of port smaller for venturi effect. I know that intakes should be about 60-80 grit texture for proper air fuel atomization and prevent puddling. I know that exhaust should be polished. I know that taking more material is not good the ultimate goal is to remove the least amount of metal to maintain velocity.

So my questions. What does everyone do with the head bolt boss that portrudes into the long runner port. what about exhaust I know that is what needs the most work. I know some people hog out to gasket size but your losing velocity. What is my best bet for the exhaust.

What I have so far for the heads planned. Multi angle valve job and valve face cut. I plan to gasket match 1" in on intake and smooth out bolt portrusion a tiny bit not too much to hurt strength of head. I plan to use a 60 grit sanding roll to smooth center of intake port. I am going to radius the short turn radius to the valve face in a smooth matter and smooth the bowl. Exhaust I have no clue.

Also what about having the heads machined down 0.10" or 0.30" I have heard up to 0.30" that no changes to intake or pushrods need to be made. Is it going to make that much of a difference? I am not touching the combustion chambers I want to keep as much metal to get as much compression I can. What cc are factory combustion chambers?

Thanks a ton. If you have pics I really really appreciate since pics are much better than words.

Here are pics I got so far. First two pics are of my exhaust ports. I did not make any larger just smoothed and polished not sure what more to do. Last is a pic of the smoothing of the short turn radius into the valve face.

0219131914.jpg0219131914a.jpg0219131915.jpg
 

V6procharged

Moderator
i have some pics of my heads i sold but none of behind the valves :/ check my f/s thread. david may have taken some better ones.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
I took no more pictures lol

stock is 62cc for combustion chamber

the heads I bought from V6procharged were supposedly milled .020-.030 I had a little bit of a time getting the lower intake to seat properly but it did.. from feeling the short runners through the lower intake it is noticeably set up higher than the heads, supposedly for every .010" you shave you gain .2 points of compression, but i have heard you DO NOT exceed .050" milled you will run into problems

I had the comp pro magnum roller rockers on my build and with 7.150" pushrods (same 218/226 comp cam you have) they set just fine on the valves going from stock height heads to the milled ones caused no problems so far

you can still polish the combustion chamber at least, upgrade the valves to have flat bottoms compared to the factory deep dishes to raise compression also
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Never thought of changing the valves to be flat topped. Any links to this. I know they are 7mm stems I could measure valve head for intake and exhaust. Also anyone know an easy way to make a combustion chamber cc tester? I have thought of taking clear plexglass drilling a hole and filling one of those measuring beakers but not sure where to get those that way I can figure what my compression will be with the flat top valves and possibly milling the heads. Thanks for the info on combustion chamber size. Also what did you end up doing to get intake and head ports to line up?

I will check out the pics. I know the pics I posted up are not the best but I am not done with the heads. I have been just practicing on them since they are extra and have been taking time so I don't mess them up hopefully so I got a spare set to sell or keep.

Also where did you get your comp pro magnum rockers? Aren't they spendy???
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
i have some from the heads i just took off but one valve must be replaced.. they are the nice 1.94/1.56 SSM valves one of the exhaust valve got slightly bent >_>

had to get the bottom ones started first when pressing down a little then sucked it down with them, put the short bolts in and tightened all the way, it stayed planted and no leaks from what i'e seen so far

i got them almost three years ago when the car first got it's heads lol the guy who installed bought them for me not sure where.. but they are well worth the money for the fact they are slightly adjustable and a lot stronger than stock rockers, V6procharged has some for sale along with all the hardware needed to install them
 
Will a 1.94 intake fit in stock valve seat or would new seats need to be put in?

EDIT: I thought I remembered hearing the biggest you can go on stock seat is 1.90 I know the intake is a 1.86 and exhaust is 1.46. So would you be able to run a 1.90 and 1.50 exhaust valve on stock valve seats. If so where would be the best place to buy these valves? I need to be 100% sure I can run them on the stock seat. I need to start getting parts together the car is planned to start on this whole project last week of march so I need to get the heads ported and figure out the valves. I can get my valves faced for $4 a valve but if I can get a little bigger valve and flat top to raise compression slightly I will go that route because generally a valve is around $8-10 so I would not spend a ton more money. I just need to know for sure that they will fit stock seats. I am planning on having the seats cut with a multi angle job but I will need to have the valves there so they can cut to fit valve. I don't have funds to put new seats in.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

V6procharged

Moderator
pretty sure 1.94/1.56 is the largest you can run on a stock seat. they are expensive new though, 450 bucks from Tom @ SSM. the 1.90/1.50 only cost 260 bucks. ive called several places to get a price on valves but they are right at the same price for the 1.94/1.56. the 1.90/1.50 are probably cheaper through tom than ordering custom made valves somewhere else. hope that helps. buy what you want the first time, so you wont regret it and end up spending more money later on for something better.
 

fasterthanyou

Active Member
us single port guys have it made. We can use chevy LS valves in our heads. right now I have LS 5.3L valves in my heads 1.94 intake 1.68 exhaust. the exhaust valve can fit without replacing the valve seats, just requires the seat to be machined out to fit the valve. the intake valve needs a new seat. get the 5.3 valve seats as well. ford tough with chevy stuff.
 
Must be nice. Well got tons of work done today on my heads. Like I said these are practice heads but I think they might even be good enough to run on my car. I have one head that I use to test where the lumps are and see how far I can safely cut.

Here are some pictures, the exhaust needs to be polished but I did not enlarge it since I don't want to reduce velocity and I don't have my LTs to look at. I smoothed out and opend up short turn radius a tiny bit. I removed the hump by the valve guide that extends length of port. I was worried about this but when I used test head never cut through. I rounded top of valve guide a tiny bit to give it a little bevel. Intake I rounded and smoothed short turn radius towards vavle I think this will be biggest improvement in performance besides valve job because before it was cut where they machined out and when you look in port the injector and air would bounce off exhaust side of head before going into cylinder. With it rounded air should follow straight to valve. Hopefully at least that is what theory sounds like when reading on porting. I also narrowed out the twin port piece separating. I smoothed out the bumps in long turn runners. I also ran a 80 grit sanding roll through port to knock off rough surface and and dimples or bumps. 80 grit feels rough enough for airflow and fuel atomization.

I would have liked to continue to work on these but I broke my carbide burr so I am stuck, I was using and it caught on some metal as I was sparying wd40 to lubricate and bounced and broke off end, luckily didn't damage anything.

Sorry the pictures are not the best but they ports are not fully cleaned and the lighting is tricky. Plus the pictures are from my
phone.

EDIT: IN THE PICTURE OF THE INTAKE PORT BOWL DO YOU THINK I SHOULD ROUND THE CENTER SPLIT PART OF THE SHORT TURN RADIUS TOWARDS VALVE? I KNOW I CAN'T DO THE CENTER WHERE THE SPLIT IS BUT ON THE SIDES I CAN.

0301131611.jpg0301131612.jpg0301131612a.jpg0301131613.jpg0301131613a.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another question.

Ok so I am thinking of possibly getting RRs. I know the factory ones are 1.73 ratio. I know that most people recommend running that. What about 1.8 to gain some added lift? I have comp max street strip cam with .500" lift. I have heard that you might have to enlarge pushrod holes for 1.8s but do you guys have any more info on them? I have no problem enlarging pushrod holes because I have my heads off right now. I know that since your stepping up to a longer ratio you will change geometry slighlty but not sure how dramatic it is? I don't want a rocker that is going to bend a valve or push sideways on retainer due to incorrect ratio. I just figured the added lift would definately help my heads flow a little more and gain a little more power with my cam. Ok and on the 1.73s or 1.8s what about brands I know comp ones are expensive what about harland sharp ones? Are they any good they appear to be much cheaper in price.
 

V6procharged

Moderator
best you can get imo is the magnums and 1.7 is the ideal ratio for our motors. ive heard of failures with the harlands
 

V6procharged

Moderator
you can get them from comp but it doesnt have the required hardware that tom supplies with his kits. i purchased my kit from tom.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Comp RR's FTW!!!

us single port guys have it made. We can use chevy LS valves in our heads. right now I have LS 5.3L valves in my heads 1.94 intake 1.68 exhaust. the exhaust valve can fit without replacing the valve seats, just requires the seat to be machined out to fit the valve. the intake valve needs a new seat. get the 5.3 valve seats as well. ford tough with chevy stuff.

how did you manage to fit a 1.68 with a 1.94 in the chamber?? hell the 1.94/1.56 valves in my old ssm heads looked massive and really close to each other
 
Top