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Blew my engine! Thinking of a swap.

Discussion in 'Personal Projects and Builds' started by ProjectVicky, May 20, 2013.

  1. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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  2. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Okay, new question: If I buy a 99+ engine WITH the transmission, will that allow me to skip buying a flywheel to fit the 99 engine to a 98 transmission? Also, is a 99+ transmission a direct fit to the 94-98 body style?
     
  3. greensteeda

    greensteeda Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!

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    Yes, the transmissions are the same. If you got a trans bolted to an engine from a 99+ car you can leave the flywheel in there.
     
  4. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Good to know. I saved a little more money for the trans since mine has 200k miles on it anyway. I found a reputable junkyard (can't believe I'm saying that in the same sentence) and I'll have an engine as soon as I can find a relative with a truck. I'm just going to grab a 99+ 3.8 and modify it AFTER I have it running. . . I'm having "cool car" withdrawals. . . I hate driving my wife's "jellybean" car.
     
  5. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Sooo. . . it's been awhile. Here is what has happened since I last touched my car. . . it's a lot. . .
    I HAD to have a cool car that ran. So, still being young and naive, rather than fixing my Mustang (after the engine broke down on the way back from mine and my wife's honeymoon) I bought an 1982 El Camino from a guy (let's just name him "The Jerk") on craigslist. It did run when I test drove it, but not knowing what I know now, I bought the car anyway because I was desperate for a running car. Paid $1900 (way too much for what I ended up with), and The Jerk apparently left a majority of the wires on the exhaust, thus burning in half after 20 mins of driving. So I towed the car to my parent's house, and my dad helped me evaluate the car. This was followed by many I-told-you-so's.
    Here we go . . . the headers were two different diameters, half the rods were bent (one bent like a Z), one rod went through a rocker, another broke a rocker in half, the fuel line was rubbing on a accessory wheel and was so thin I could indent it with my finger, the bottom of the exhaust was smashed in from "jumping" the car, the radiator was half JB weld, the front control arms were on the wrong sides, half the transmission bolts were stripped, the rear shocks were mounted wrong thus causing the bolt holding them to wear in half (I'm not exaggerating) and the shocks fell off in my hands, the rear drum brakes were not changed since the factory (we found a factory marking that would have been smudged off if they were ever changed) and were so bad, the brackets holding the brake pads wore diagonally in half, the rest of the components were mostly rust dust, and best of all, the block had a crack in the valley. . . of course we didn't find all this out at the same time. It seemed like every part we replaced, we found another part that was unacceptable, making me hate craigslist more and more.
    I essentially ended up with two vehicles that did not run. Because I wanted to prove to my dad that I didn't make a mistake by buying the El Camino, I fixed the Elco first. . . . mostly out of pride. . . . okay, I really wanted to prove my dad that I wasn't wrong.
    It is about 85% new parts (including engine, trans, suspension, brakes, about everything but the body, paint, and glass). I spent every night after work fixing that car for 9 months straight. When I finally got it to drive, I spent many more nights fixing what was left. Outside on my dad's lawn, in the rain, Texas heat, and a few times in the snow. I fought the car, and the car fought me, so much so that we named it "Khan the El Camino" after the "Wrath of Khan."
    Sometime between then and now, my wife and I had our first kid, we've been focused on getting a house, and I recently finished the Elco.
    I finally got to the back of my garage, and uncovered my Mustang. It still has sea shells on the floorboards from the honeymoon. . . . And I find myself hell bent on driving it again. However, our budget is the same as before, only I have the know-how to do it with confidence. So, I will be trying to get the car to run again and I plan to spend $500 total to do so. It won't look pretty, but it will drive again.
     
  6. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    With that being said, my goal is to get a junkyard 3.8 from a 1999 to 2000 engine for about $350 (they are externally balanced like the 1998), modify the fuel rails to fit the return-style in my 1998, eventually port and polish the heads and lower intake, get an upper intake from a 96-98 Windstar van, install a set of ceramic coated long tube headers (with EGR) I've had forever, and new exhaust (h-pipe, mandrel bent, super 44s, I'm thinking 2.5 inch tubing), and aluminum driveshaft. I may mess with the gears a little and the torque converter. My goal is to have a more powerful and much more efficient car than a stock 98.
     
  7. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Congratulations for your first kid and new home!

    You might want to check out fuel rails on other vehicles with either 3.8 or 4.2. IIRC you can get a factory rail for a return fuel system. Swap it on your jy motor before checking out.
     
  8. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    I haven't read too far into the fuel rails yet, but I THINK I read something about a Windstar fuel rail swapping over, but there were no details. I did find some write-ups on how-to modifying rails that I've took notes on. I've learned a lot so far on how to decipher CL ads, how to tell which yards are worth driving to, and how to tell if an engine is worth buying. I can't tell ya'll how many stolen cars I found, how many liars I've wasted time with, and how hilarious it is that out of 24 junkyards in the past two months, I have seen at LEAST three 3.8 stangs in every junkyard I've been to. They all had metal shavings in the oil, failed a compression test on several cylinders, had the top end removed and left out in the elements to rust, had the engine mysteriously missing after I call before driving there, . . . one yard even told me they had 5 great motors available IN the cars, when I got there, there were no motors and the cars had all been crushed. . . I find it hard to believe they did that within the two hours between me calling the yard and arriving there. My wife is losing patience with me as I have been getting up every morning at 6:30 to check out a yard or two before I go to work and finding nothing. I don't blame her as I am losing MY patience with JYs and people flipping motors on CL, many of which will tell me anything they think I want to hear to sell a crapped out motor. Luckily, my dad and youtube has taught me well on how to prevent a bad motor purchase. I think, when I have time, I'll share my notes on here for anyone unfamiliar with JYs.
     
  9. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    I FINALLY got a junkyard engine. I spent the past three months looking through over a dozen junkyards in the DFW area, only three or four were budget friendly and worthwhile. I finally found an engine that has not produced any metal shavings (I checked the oil filter, no glitter-like flakes, no chunks of metal, no rust or orange goo in oil).

    Checklist for Junk Yard searches --
    -Bring an oil filter wrench
    -A pasta lid with a strong magnet (put a thin layer of oil in the lid, the magnet catches the metal and the white, waxy inside of the lid is a good surface to visually inspect the oil for glitter-like shavings or water/antifreeze)
    -Rags to clean the pasta lid after each inspection
    -Notepad for notes
    -Crayons to mark your engine (some yards try to sell you a different engine than the one you first agreed to buy, the crayon thing helped me a few times when a yard tried to sell me one of their cores and wouldn't let me see the car I told them to pull)
    -If the yard is good but didn't have anything at the time, get a business card so you can call once a week when they get new inventory. A good yard is worth calling in periodically rather than driving again and again to see if there are new cars.

    After double and triple checking the oil to ensure I was not wasting more time or money, I bought the engine. It's a 2002 3.8 V6. It also came with the hood -- it was broken but had a cool turtle tribal emblem on it so I got it for wall decor. I'll see if I can get some photos uploaded later this week. I got the engine off the trailer (hauled it with the El Camino) and onto an engine stand. I mad a mistake and used cheap bolts which nearly dropped my engine and ruined the concrete. Take my advice and don't skimp out on cheap engine stand bolts. I spent $4 on four M10 bolts measuring 70mm. (I'll edit this later when I get my notes).
    I haven't pulled anything off yet but I did notice a HUGE difference in the exhaust manifolds' inside diameter on the collector. My 1998's is roughly 2 and 1/4 inches and the 2002 is roughly 1 and 1/2 inches on the driver side and as restrictive as 1 and 1/4 inches on the passenger side due to really poor welding from the factory. I would strongly suggest anyone with a New Edge to look at their exhaust manifolds and get a 97-98 from a JY. The 2002's collector inside diameter is smaller than the diameter of the primary tube on my long tube headers. So, suffice it to say, the long tube headers will make a big difference. Like I said, photos later this week so ya'll can see what I mean.

    So far, my 1998 V6 3.8 Mustang build is at $329.
     
  10. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Here are some photos to show the restriction of the collector portion of the exhaust headers / manifolds.
    headers 1.png
    This first photo shows the inside diameter of a set of aftermarket long tube headers.

    The next photo shows the inside diameter of a set of 1998 stock exhaust manifolds.
    headers 2.png
     
  11. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    And here is the inside diameter of the stock 2002 exhaust manifolds. headers 3.png

    So, to emphasize the restrictive size, I held the PRIMARY portion of the aftermarket long tube headers to the COLLECTOR portion of the 2002 stock Mustang manifolds. Long tubes on the left, 2002 is on the right.
    headers 4.png
     
  12. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    I will be tearing into the engine soon, can anyone tell me why one set of rod bearings online is $17 and another set is $85? They appear to be identical, is there anything I need to make sure I look for when ordering rod bearings (material. . . idk what difference there would be) or are they all the same thing just different prices?
    Soon I will have the engine apart, I will be starting with the block, having it resurfaced and I'll probably hone it myself carefully with a drill, then I will have the heads resurfaced and valve sleeves added, then I will port and polish the heads myself along with the lower intake. Before I put it all back together I will replace the rod bearings and make sure the crankshaft is ok to re-use. . . and I'll start with that. I'll get the rest done in small sections.
    One more thing -- will I need a new set of pistons or rings with a different diameterafter I hone it or should it be fine?
     
  13. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    This sucks. I bought some 3.8 V6 "Mustang" valve covers from a third party on Amazon, when they arrived, they didn't fit, not even close. They advertised the trans dapt chrome valve covers as fitting 3.8 Mustangs, but that info was not accurate. valve cover td1.jpg Valve cover td2.jpg
    Lesson learned: don't always trust internet info. Hopefully I can return these, but I won't know till Monday. It really sucks -- I would like some V6 chrome valve covers but I don't see any out there. I liked the shape, I even didn't mind the missing gaskets, caps, or oil breathers, but there is not way to make them work.
     
  14. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Returning the valve covers tomorrow. Just purchased a 1996 Windstar intake (and throttle body, not sure if I'll use that yet) from a junkyard this morning. I will be tearing the engine apart soon to take parts to a machine shop. Every part is being labeled and bagged. Each bag is being placed into three separate bins labeled by car make (1998 3.8 Mustang **** 2002 3.8 Mustang **** and 1996 3.8 Windstar *****) and every part is being photographed before I remove it so if I forget where a part went, I'm not relying on the internet or memory, it saves lots of time when putting it all back together. I'm also looking at a Maximum Motorsports K member for autocross, they look pretty strong and I had a better tax refund than I thought this year, so things are moving sooner than I thought.
     
  15. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    I tore the engine apart further earlier this week. I labeled EVERYTHING with tape and plastic bags. The heads are off and will be sent off next week to be resurfaced and checked. I got a good trustworthy shop in the area that will do both heads for $250 for the pair. At the moment I am waiting for enough money to buy a damper pulley and valve spring compressor, then I need to save up for the head work. While the heads are being worked on, I'll pull the block apart and send that in to be magnafluxed and honed for $350. While THAT'S being worked on, hopefully I'll have enough money for a rebuild kit. Then I will port and polish the intake and heads, as of right now I think I will use the 98 cam for efficiency. If all works out okay, I should get the engine together before 2018 gets here.
     
  16. ProjectVicky

    ProjectVicky Wrench Monkey

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    Anyone know how I can move this thread to "Personal Projects and Builds"? I feel like I posted this thread in the wrong area somehow.