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Cam position sensor and synchronizer

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Ryanosky, Nov 5, 2008.

  1. Ryanosky

    Ryanosky New Member

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    I know this is a dead horse but im gonna kick it again. I made my first post on this web site over a year ago and it was about the CPS and my check engine light. I replaced just the sensor, reset the code and it came on again. I take excellent care of my car and there arent many 95 v6ers in the condition mine is that ive seen and this check engine light has always been a thorn in my side. I'm doing a few more mods to my car the next few weeks and I wanna tackle this CPS problem and get this light shut off for good (its been on for like 2 years). Local moron mechanics can't seem to fix it and each one has a different opinion why its on and what they think should be done to the CPS. I recently bought a rebuilt Motorcraft Synchronizer (the whole unit that goes down and ties into the camshaft) from Napa and it also came with the sensor. I went ahead and started to do the swap tonight and got out the old synchronizer out and started to put in the new. The new one didn't slide in as smooth as the old one and actually got stuck for about 15 mins (it wasnt all the way in and I couldnt pull it out). I got a little paranoid and figured this isn't something that should bu forced in. I finially got it out and was going to put the old one back in. It slid right in and I was surprised to see how much trial and error was involed in getting it back in the way it came out (there are only so many different combinations depending how you match the teeth on the synchronizer with the drive gear on the camshaft) but I finally got it right and put it all back together. There was no way the new one was going to go through this trial and error procedure. After hooking it all back up and fired up my car it ran fine and the check engine light stayed off even after a few miles of driving and im wondering if something was just loose on the old one.

    Has anyone ever done this replacement? This seems like a common problem with the 3.8's and I still have not seen a conclusive solution to it. I found it hard to believe how badly the new synchronizer was fitting. Its definatly the right part and they both look the same. Only thing was that the surface on the new one was a little rougher, that typical texture of a rebuilt part and was thinking that was the problem.
     
  2. cuban tech

    cuban tech Automotive Technician

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    here is the producer from ford and i have enclose the pics



    Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
    3.8L Engine

    SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
    Syncro Positioning Tool T89P-12200-A


    Removal

    Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) .
    Disconnect fuel charging wiring (9D930) from distributor stator (12A112) (camshaft position sensor).
    Remove stator camshaft position sensor retaining screws and distributor stator (camshaft position sensor) from camshaft position sensor housing.
    If removing camshaft position sensor housing from the engine front cover (6019) , proceed with Removal Step 5. If camshaft position sensor housing is not being removed, proceed to Installation Step 6.




    CAUTION: Before proceeding with this procedure, set cylinder No. 1 to 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) of the compression stroke. Then note the position of the stator (camshaft position sensor) electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.

    Remove retaining bolt and hold-down clamp (12270) .
    NOTE: The oil pump intermediate shaft (6A618) should be removed with the camshaft position sensor housing.

    Remove camshaft position sensor housing from engine front cover .
    Installation

    CAUTION: If the replacement distributor stator (camshaft position sensor) does not contain a plastic locator cover tool, a special service tool such as Syncro Positioning Tool T89P-12200-A must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement distributor stator (camshaft position sensor). Failure to follow this procedure will result in improper stator (camshaft position sensor) alignment. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

    If the plastic locator cover tool is not attached to the replacement distributor stator (camshaft position sensor), attach Syncro Positioning Tool T89P-12200-A as follows:
    Engage camshaft position sensor housing vane into the radial slot of the tool.
    Rotate tool on camshaft position sensor housing until tool boss engages notch in camshaft position sensor housing. The cover tool should be square and in contact with entire top surface of camshaft position sensor housing.
    Transfer oil pump intermediate shaft from old camshaft position sensor housing to replacement camshaft position sensor housing.
    CAUTION: If stator (camshaft position sensor) electrical connector is not positioned properly (for example, contacting the A/C compressor bracket), DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the camshaft position sensor housing. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the camshaft position sensor housing and repeat installation procedure, beginning with Step 1.

    Install camshaft position sensor housing so that drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on locator tool is pointed approximately 30 degrees counterclockwise from the front face of the cylinder block (6010) . This step will locate stator (camshaft position sensor) electrical connector in the pre-removal position.
    Install hold-down clamp and retaining bolt and tighten bolt to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).
    Remove Syncro Positioning Tool T89P-12200-A.
    CAUTION: If stator (camshaft position sensor) electrical connector is not positioned properly (for example, contacting the A/C compressor bracket), DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the camshaft position sensor housing. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the camshaft position sensor housing and repeat installation procedure, beginning with Step 1.

    Install distributor stator (camshaft position sensor) and retaining screws. Tighten screws to 2.5-3.5 Nm (22-31 lb-in).
    Connect fuel charging wiring connector to distributor stator (camshaft position sensor).
    Connect battery ground cable .




    Item Part Number Description
    1 T89P-12200-A Syncro Positioning Tool
    2 12127 Camshaft Position Sensor Housing
    3 N605907 Bolt
    4 12270 Hold-Down Clamp
    5 6019 Engine Front Cover
    6 6A618 Oil Pump Intermediate Shaft
    7 12A112 (Camshaft Position Sensor) Distributor Stator
    8 N805029 Screw (2 Req'd)
    A — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft)
    B — Tighten to 2.5-3.5 Nm (22-31 Lb-In)
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Ryanosky

    Ryanosky New Member

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    CAUTION: Before proceeding with this procedure, set cylinder No. 1 to 26 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) of the compression stroke. Then note the position of the stator (camshaft position sensor) electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.

    How do I achieve this step?
     
  4. Meehlimo

    Meehlimo Active Member

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    Mine was actualy sezing up. whats weird is it never threw a code just nearly killed the engine entirely while going about 60mph. aparently it is a common problem wit the 3.8s the taurs's went bad quite frequently i have heard.
     
  5. Ryanosky

    Ryanosky New Member

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    Update:

    I've driven to and from work (approx 30 miles) and the CEL is still off. Maybe taking it apart and cleaning up the connector and plug fixed something? When i pulled out the synchronizer it looked fine. The gear was not damaged and it spun freely. Im thinking it was/is something electrical.

    Is there a point to where the CEL wont come back on for the same problem? Example: Like if I've driven so many miles I should be in the clear of it not coming back on?
     
  6. Stangmaster

    Stangmaster New Member

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    The CPS seems to be a commoon problem.
    Where I work, our Diesel Super Dutys all got recalled. The notice said something about stalling in traffic.
     
  7. mickey_bigdaddy

    mickey_bigdaddy Active Member

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    Here's my story and what Ford dealer's service tells me.

    I had the synchronizer go bad on my 3.8L Mustang. Took into Ford service and they wanted $550 to change it out. So I did it myself and used an aftermarket part (bad idea). I should have used the Ford OEM part. Anyway, it worked great for about a month then the service light came back on and the car started to get out of timing. I took it back to Ford service and they said that the synchronizer sensor was a little different from the Ford OEM and that they needed another $500 to change the whole synchronizer and sensor and put the car back in timing. I was told that the sensor on mine was giving readings that were a little off from the OEM sensor and that they couldn't guarantee my service if they didn't change the part out. I told them to just reset the timing. They did and viola, two weeks later and the car is out of timing again. I am going to just change the sensor with a OEM sensor and see if that fixes it, otherwise, I'll have to get the synchronizer and sensor from Ford to get this resolved.

    Also, that Top Dead Center question above is right on. HOW THE HECK DO YOU DO THIS??? I HAD A HECK OF A TIME FIGURING OUT THE LOCATION OF TDC. My harmonic balancer / engine block marks are not like what is shown in the manuals. I couldn't tell where my marks were.
     
  8. Ryanosky

    Ryanosky New Member

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    I changed out my synchronizer. Bought a rebuilt motorcraft Synchronizer and sensor for 150 bucks from Napa and had the local shop instal and sync it with the special tool for 100 bucks. 200 miles and the light is still off.
     
  9. 99v6stang4.2

    99v6stang4.2 New Member

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    www.rpm-mustangs.com has great install instructions on their site forinstalling without the tool. It is very simple and does not require a mechanic or local shop to install
     
  10. mikek99v6

    mikek99v6 Active Member

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    I know this is old, but still same topic...Is cylinder one at TDC when the timeing marks on the crankshaft, camshaft, and engine balancer timing gear are lined up? I took out my cps and the synchronizer before I realized it had to be put back in the same way. Thanks

    And yes, I found out that cyl 1 is at TDC when the timing marks are all lined up. I had to know how to tell anyway to set lifter preload.
     
  11. mikek99v6

    mikek99v6 Active Member

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    Hey does anyone have an answer? I know RPM used to have the thing for doing this without the tool, but the site isn't working anymore since he stopped working on the stuff. Does anybody have the instructions or know where they are?
     
  12. 230kmiles

    230kmiles New Member

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    At the Redline site, just click the "how to articles" in the left side of the screen. the article is still there with pictures.
     
  13. mikek99v6

    mikek99v6 Active Member

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    Yeah, I finally found it. Thanks though.
     
  14. 96Redstick6

    96Redstick6 Nick

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  15. ALRUI

    ALRUI Member

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    I know this thread is old but do you have the web address for the article you mentioned on the "Redline" site? Thanks!
     
  16. chavo

    chavo Chavo

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    would be a great help if he can submit the link. i tryed looking for it with no luck... i have to install that as well