CCRM removal help please.

jasonargos

New Member
2000' Convertible. A/c Quit on me suddenly and the shop said the system is fully charged, it's an electrical issue. Blows hot. Checked out the high and low pressure switches, both work fine. If I power the clutch on the compressor, it engages and works great. That narrows is down to a problem in the CCRM, or at least requires me to get access to the CCRM to test the relevant pins.

Took out the airbox that's in the way, finally got the two bolts loosened enough to slide the brackets free from the car, but the CCRM is stuck in the fender well. How do I get it out of there? I can't seem to get the harness to unclip for the life of me, and don't see how I can gain access without unplugging it.

If anyone has any good advice on how to remove it, I'd be thankful. Once fixed, I don't think I'll be putting it back in that spot unless there is a trivial way to remove it. I spent the better part of an hour just trying to disconnect it, and failed.

Thanks.
 

matthews.stang

Well-Known Member
It was easier for me to take the two screws on CCRM bracket off, rather than the whole bracket. They are two small screws.

Then there will be a bolt that holds the plug into place and you can remove the module.
 

jasonargos

New Member
well, I did get it out from where the airbox was, as I saw another poster who did that before I read this. Pin 21 is hot, 22&23 are not. that website I linked to says it's a performance issue? no other complaints about the car. However it did blow cold and all three pins 21-23 were hot. that lasted a few seconds, and only happened after I banged on the ccrm and plugged it in.

any opinions? ccrm or not? looking at the wiring diagram for it, http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang-94-95-CCRM-AC-Diagram.gif
it makes me wonder about the pcm, but like I said, no other car issues, and it worked, once, for maybe 60 seconds, when i banged on the ccrm.
 

matthews.stang

Well-Known Member
It you are getting power to the A/C clutch, I would say it's not the CCRM. Others with more knowledge may say different. :lol:
 

Roweazie

Active Member
It you are getting power to the A/C clutch, I would say it's not the CCRM. Others with more knowledge may say different. :lol:
yea, thats true. I had trouble with my a/c once. My compressor keep powering on and off, After i replaced my CCRM, my a/c started working and its super icy cold now.:D
 

jasonargos

New Member
Yea, I had power to the a/c clutch for a few seconds, then off again. I'm going to check that the TPS isn't giving a WOT signal, which can cause the ccrm to keep the a/c off, so I've read. I'm also considering breaking the wire between the pcm and the a/c ccrm input, to see if the pcm is possibly bad, sending a false signal to the ccrm.

Edit: okay, pin 22, gets power with a/c off, I turn the a/c on. 2-5 seconds later, something cuts power to pin 22. Can this be a symptom of the ccrm failing, or is it most certainly the pcm, as that's where pin 22 comes from. I don't want to order a new ccrm to find that my current one is actually working properly. Tested the tps, which also is fine. Are there any tests I can/should do on the pcm? Is it a bad idea to just clip the wire on pin 22? it looks like the a/c pressure sensors have a separate path to cut the compressor power, and pin 22 is just for WOT or some other conditions?
Could there be a helpful troubleshooting code that I should have it scanned for? There's no CEL on, and I'm not sure if there are diagnostic codes that matter if the light's not on.

I appreciate all the help, it beats paying a shop 80$/hr to do the same electrical troubleshooting I can do.
 

Roweazie

Active Member
Yea, I had power to the a/c clutch for a few seconds, then off again. I'm going to check that the TPS isn't giving a WOT signal, which can cause the ccrm to keep the a/c off, so I've read. I'm also considering breaking the wire between the pcm and the a/c ccrm input, to see if the pcm is possibly bad, sending a false signal to the ccrm.

Edit: okay, pin 22, gets power with a/c off, I turn the a/c on. 2-5 seconds later, something cuts power to pin 22. Can this be a symptom of the ccrm failing, or is it most certainly the pcm, as that's where pin 22 comes from. I don't want to order a new ccrm to find that my current one is actually working properly. Tested the tps, which also is fine. Are there any tests I can/should do on the pcm? Is it a bad idea to just clip the wire on pin 22? it looks like the a/c pressure sensors have a separate path to cut the compressor power, and pin 22 is just for WOT or some other conditions?
Could there be a helpful troubleshooting code that I should have it scanned for? There's no CEL on, and I'm not sure if there are diagnostic codes that matter if the light's not on.

I appreciate all the help, it beats paying a shop 80$/hr to do the same electrical troubleshooting I can do.
replaced that CCRM your self bro. Its only less than 1hrs labor and its pretty easy. Its like putting a cold air intake. good luck, hope every thing goes well :thumbup:


BTW! Welcome to 3.8 Mustang, enjoy your stay bro.
 

jasonargos

New Member
Before you replaced your ccrm, did you check for voltage at wires 21-23? I'm just trying to confirm it's my ccrm before I order/hunt down a new one.
 

matthews.stang

Well-Known Member
Before you replaced your ccrm, did you check for voltage at wires 21-23? I'm just trying to confirm it's my ccrm before I order/hunt down a new one.
I didn't. I was in the same boat as you. Spent the $201.77 and it worked. It blows at 48 degress all maxed out. :thumbup:
 

Roweazie

Active Member
Before you replaced your ccrm, did you check for voltage at wires 21-23? I'm just trying to confirm it's my ccrm before I order/hunt down a new one.
no, but you need to make sure to unplug the battery wires first. Try to finding a junk yard for stangs first. look for used ccrm. You could save more money, ccrm are damn expensive. Here's what to look for when finding a used ccrm. Theirs a letter on your current ccrm, you need to match that letter.
 

jasonargos

New Member
I'm going to go junking next weekend to try to find one with the same letter as mine. Hopefully, that might fix it. Otherwise, I can't find anything online to continue troubleshooting now that I get voltage only on pin 21. I'm really tempted to just bypass the grounding out that pin 22 is doing. I haven't seen anything really important that it's used for, but with the complexity of computers in cars, I'm worried it could do some harm.
 

matthews.stang

Well-Known Member
no, but you need to make sure to unplug the battery wires first. Try to finding a junk yard for stangs first. look for used ccrm. You could save more money, ccrm are damn expensive. Here's what to look for when finding a used ccrm. Theirs a letter on your current ccrm, you need to match that letter.
True, but on the '98, there was something different about the internals. You'll have to match the part number on the CCRM with the replacement. :thumbup:
 

dbaisley

New Member
True, but on the '98, there was something different about the internals. You'll have to match the part number on the CCRM with the replacement. :thumbup:

matter of fact i changed mines yesterday because my fan stopped coming on so i changed it and now it comes on when the operating temp kicks in. anyway for a 98 the box usually has an "S" on it
 
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