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Discussion in '2011-2014 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Adamd, Dec 17, 2010.
Sounds like a nice excuse for an oil cooler and filter relocation kit
That's pretty much how you have to do it with about every other car GM has made since 1998. They manage to make sure oil gets all over frames, wiring harnesses, headers, you name it. If a well-placed filter and gravity can assure the part gets oil all over it, GM has done it ;-) Cans and cans of brake parts cleaner are your friends.
Hey these are really useful tips.. I will keep them in mind while oil check.
This may help.
Form-A-Funnel® Flexible Draining Tool
I know you aren't talking about lsx engines and their variants. The oil filter in those is vertical and beside the oil pan. Not much easier than that.
Trust me id rather change the oil in my dads gmc 2500 w/ 6.0 than my f150 w/ 5.4.
Nope, mostly the GMC Acadia (as I recall) and Buick Century, both are a pain. The Acadia's filter can only be reached from the top, and you kind of have to guess where to put the drain pan to collect "most" of the oil. I've never worked on an LS-series engine. Northstar V8s are easy like you say the lsx is, too.
Ref. post 24 and Form-A-Funnel recommendation ... see my post #15 ... I bought one and it works great !!
5th oil change (30k miles) is coming up for me soon.
The Form-a-funnel worked good on my son's 2002 Chebby Cadavalier with it's old iron-duke 4 cyl too. Filter sticks straight off the block towards the firewall and is directly above the braided S.S. exhaust flex joint. Only way to get at it is from above after you move the EEC box (or is it the cruise ??) & bracket out of the way. The only way to turn it is with a filter wrench that grabs on the end with a socket adapter as there is no room to swing a normal filter wrench.
The 2011 oil filter is a piece of cake in comparison !!
Fifth? I thought Ford recommended every 10k miles with the new oil system.
With a new engine, I like to work my way up to the factory recommended interval. It's been said that today's modern engines don't really need early "break-in" oil changes, but I still do it anyway.
1st change was at 1500 (Motorcraft 5W20 Syn-Blend back in)
2nd change was at 5100 (Mobil 1 5W20 full Syn)
3rd change was at 11k
4th change was at 20k and now on the sch
Cheap insurance to be sure.
I would always assume that's a good idea. There's always a chance little bits and impurities are in the system somewhere from manufacturing, and it's always good to flush any of them out with a few early oil & filter changes.
Im absolutely anal about changing my oil. Pretty much after it gets a dark color its out lol.
What is no..
Engines are broken in now before delivery, it is part of the manufacturing process.
That seems crazy. You must change it every 1500 miles lol. The oil is not "bad" when it goes black.
Black is bad. Light brown/dark isn't.
Black does need changing though. Or better yet opaque is bad.
I just changed my oil last weekend. The oil pan drains to the side so you need to estimate where to put the drain pan, and then move it as the oil flow subsides. I used the plastic bag approach on the filter, and it caught most of the oil. I like the idea about punching a hole in the filter, but I think we can take this a step further. How about taking an approach similar to the oil can plunger we used to use when oil came in cans, but instead of a spout, one attaches the sharpened metal tube end to a hose, which will fit into the oil drain pan? Weld a bar onto the tube so you can hammer the tube into the filter.
Anyway, another question, does anyone make a remote oil filter relocation kit for the 3.7 engine. Or maybe a screw-on adapter that rotates the oil filter so it is vertical?
I use a piece of aluminum foil to make a funnel. It's easy to form a shape to make sure the oil goes into the drain pan. Same idea as the form a funnel shown but a lot less money!
I've also done 3 oil chnges, and each has been less messy pertaining to the oil filter situation. My last (most recent), has been the cleanest, as I first removed the oil filter, using a piece of cardboard, bent in half to form a funnel to allow the oil from the filter (as it is inscrewed) to drain into a pan I have the cardboard pointed at. This setup is very simular to removing the oil filter on my Harley; it too is horizontal, and requires some "special" thinking to keep the oil from dumping all over the front of the engine/down tubes.
I also use an old shower curtain on the garage floor to get any drips that may happen.
Bought this from NAPA today. $23.59 with tax. I'm sure this will work perfect when i do my next oil change.
Using a plastic bag from a grocery store covering the filter as you remove will capture the oil that wants to pour out when you unscrew it. Another trick is to take a piece of cardboard, bend it in half to form a "V", place it under the filter at one end while the other is placed in the oil drain pan (do the filter removal first). This way the oil from the filter removal is funneled to the pan. Or, cut the top back half of a gallon milk jug (or comperable) to create a funnel. It's pour spout pointing into the oil drain pan.
My Harley had this same problem with a horizontal oil filter, placed in a difficult part of the engine to cleanly remove it.
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