Sorry, I'm sure this has been discussed 1,000,000,000,000 times.
Forgive me as this is my 1st post here. :ducks:
2000 mustang 3.8 vert :)
I want to add coolant/water to my cooling SYSTEM.
On my other cars (brand name not mentioned) you HAVE to
bleed the air bubbles out of the coolant SYSTEM while the thermostat is open (hot coolant).
I notice that my 2000 mustang doesnt have a bleeder VALVE like my other cars, it has a bleeder PLUG.:wtf:
What is proper procedure for refilling and bleeding the air?
THANKS a Ton! :thumbup:
coolant System refill - bleed valve
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Basically drain the radiator and fill it back up. Then drain (remove and clean with hod water to remove the crud at the bottom as well) the overflow tank. Fill up the radiator and the overflow tank and put the cap back on the radiator.
Remove the allen bolt located in front of the upper intake, its the highest part of the coolant system. it is on the black metal cross over tube and should be pointing straight up. Fill this hole if it needs it.
Start the car and watch the overflow tank. Keep coolant in the overflow tank while the system circulates, dont fill it up to much (watch the hot and cold lines) and keep doing this until it doesnt take anymore coolant into the system.
Go drive the car a little bit and check it again and keep an eye on it for a few days and top off the fluid.
Thats about it.
Thanks for the good reply and not being hard on me for being a noob.
1) you didnt say When to Close the "allen bolt" back.
I was led to believe (from the manual) that it is a "Valve PLUG" .
But the manual suxorz (naturally).
Is the 2000 3.8L mustang's coolant system a automatic self-bleeder?
Where it will bleed off the coolant system air/bubbles all by itself?
On my 2002 camaro 3.8L you open the valve screw, the air bleeds out in a mist
and you just let it keep on misting out until its just liquid coming out (not mist).
Yea i was about to say.....
Cause I thought ALL mustangs had the Bleeder valve....like shown in the picture.
Yea you run the car a few minutes after coolant change, then shut the car off, then loosen the bleeder valve bolt alittle, once you hear HISSING, then stop and let the air escape, then tighten it back up, run the car somemore and Repeat.
But yea mustangs got bleeder valves...(well they should)
I know my 94 does.
I know some manufactures put Automatic bleeder valves,(like in my s10).
And on another note: If you park your car uphill on a steep incline you usually won't have to bleed the system. You just got to make sure the thermostat is open. And to do that, wait for the temp gauge to reach mid way and then let the car idle for one or 2 minutes with the a/c off.
I could never get all the air out if the car was level. Just a couple of days ago I had to drain some fluid to change out the thermostat to a 180 degree. I filled it back up full, went for a test drive, parked facing up on a big hill down the street, gave it a couple of good revs and went back home. Topped off the radiator again and opened the bleed valve for the heck of it, no bubbles. Good to go :thumbup:
And on yet another note: The system will actually bleed it's self. I did not know about the bleeder screw the first time I did a flush. Upon finding out 2 years later I went out and cracked it open and no bubbles came out. Also good to go :thumbup:
Greetings ladies and gents.
I'm Mandy's friend repairing her 99 V6.
While this 3 year old thread is pointing directly at a part I need I figured I would say hi. Her car has a broken bleeder PIPE.....theres a crack in the left side of the hexagonal part that holds the bleeder bolt, thus I need to replace that whole pipe from the water pump - bleeder -to behind the motor.
Theres rust sprayed all over the intake so I already plan to replace the thermostat and flush the system....gonna do it twice to be sure. I also have the upper plenum gasket because we thought that was the original culprit.
Question is what is that part specifically named and where to find it? Also what do I need to look out for while I have it apart? and Where does that pipe connect?
Thanks folks, sorry for such a long winded response.
Coolant crossover tube.
It connects directly into the water pump, the lower intake and routes along side the lower to the firewall, goes to the passenger side where it connects to a hose that goes inside the passenger compartment (heater core/hvac).
Hope this image link works: it's labeled as "hvac heater hose" part 18663 on foreparts.com (choose your make & model, then search for the part name I quoted)
yep. thats the exact part. I called around and FINALLY found Rusty Acres (FLM graveyard of sorts) but they say I gotta bring in the original to match up. No problem once I get it off. So what all is required to remove to reach it? Do I really have to take off the upper intake plenum?
I got the connection at the water pump and heater core hose off. The pipe is spot welded to 2 brackets behind the motor. I BELIEVE they are only fastened to the motor by spring clip type things similar to what holds door panels on. I got the one on the driver side but no luck on the passenger. I figure at worst I will have to remove the coil pack to get the pipe out once fully disconnected, but gotta get that one on the pass side loose first. Any confirmation on that?
those 2 brackets have a little nub that slides into the lower intake, which keep the bracket in place and the tube in it's current location.
now that you have the connection off at the water pump, the heater core AND the lower intake (the rubber hose next to the vertical hexagonal tube that is cracked) you should be able to shove the entire tube assembly back towards the firewall so the nubs on those 2 brackets come out of the lower intake which will allow you to remove it completely.
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