David Seifert's small 4.2 build

BRN2RUN

Active Member
The tensioners, in lieu of having a vice, what I did was take a nut and bolt that could hold the front tensioner plate on and the assembly together, and then use two wrenches to tighten them up. When the front plate gets tight enough, eventually it turns with the whole assembly so you can push the tab on the front plate past the notch.
 

BRN2RUN

Active Member
With my double intercooler, the intercooler and tubing stays mildly warm to the touch, even after it's been driven through regular traffic, even in the hottest temperatures in summer. The rest of the engine and engine bay has an enormous amount of heat. Luckily, you have a vented hood already, which should help with that.

Another thing is that the location of the stock intercooler on an SC setup (presuming that you're not re-routing the tubing--which would add bends and inefficient psi) is in conjunction with a smaller radiator. I'm assuming that the stock Mustang radiator would block an SC intercooler. But the A/C condenser gets in the way of airflow in the SC setup, and it definetely would on a Mustang setup. I'd removed the condenser on my SC to improve airflow. Some guys just get a smaller condenser and/ or a special piece of metal that's angled to divert airflow up into the intercooler, but i'm thinking that would also add drag to the front of the car, too.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
I already took the AC out so none of that will be troublesome, hopefully getting a front facing top hat also to reduce the amount of piping needed and bends. It will be a front mounted IC so it'll get airflow first before the radiator. Trying to make sure I can do a good amount of the upgrades up front so I won't have any problems later.
 

BRN2RUN

Active Member
I give you lots of respect for taking this build to a place where others haven't--it's unique. It' s a nice blend of 3.8 parts. A front facing supercharger hat may be a nice custom touch.

I don't know if there's any way to incorporate the SC's knock sensor or octane plug into your build, but it may be something to think about. The knock sensor is good for some peace of mind in case you get some bad gas or in case detonation happens. I run 94 octane in my Super Coupe just in case (avoiding the dreaded blown head gasket). The octane plug allows you to run the setup on 87 pump gas, and I believe that it pulls 3 or 4 degrees of timing. Though with an SCT tuner, one could just pull 3 or 4 degrees of timing as well.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Appreciate it man

Yeah I was told they just pull the iat sensor plug and it pulls 4°.

I'm not sure if the knock sensor will be able to wire in unless it's somehow spliced in independently, unless Luis can flash something into the car, I believe I would need an extra pin on the harness to do so correct?
 

BRN2RUN

Active Member
I'm not sure how the knock sensor is wired, but I do know that it's a cool piezo electric device that senses a certain amount of any tapping or knocking that will pull timing. In more modern ECU's that sense load and other things to adjust the air/ fuel, i'm not sure how much the knock sensor is needed, but it may still be a nice failsafe.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Eh it'll be alright I think, I can always get him to make me a safe tune with a couple degrees less of timing for the street. Of course this is pretty much a weekend/race car so I would probably never use it haha.
 

Markstang

Polishing my banhammer
I was told once that our motors use the crank sensor to detect acceleration differences to detect misfires. That and the O2 sensors.
 

BRN2RUN

Active Member
Eh it'll be alright I think, I can always get him to make me a safe tune with a couple degrees less of timing for the street. Of course this is pretty much a weekend/race car so I would probably never use it haha.

Ah, gotcha! I wasn't sure if you were going to have it as a DD car. There's this video online, where a guy claims to only have a 10 percent OD pulley, and it sounds about right in terms of psi.......that's a 5.01 second (my stopwatch calculations) 0-60 and the boost (top center gauge) pinned at about 15 psi, in a nearly 4000 lb car. If you can get everything dialed in and have your build still making high horsepower in the upper RPM's (SC setups don't have much after 4000 rpm), you might have a 4-4.5 second 0-60 and maybe in the 11 second 1/4 mile, maybe high 10's, around maybe 3100-3200 lbs. No matter what the horsepower/ torque and dyno says, you're going to have one deadly car.


I can appreciate what you're doing, because I was going to do what you're doing to the Mustang and was looking for a donor SC or whatever I could find for parts.....but then I saw a nice '91 SC come up in the ads for $2000 and it drove and rode beautifully and was too nice to take the engine out of so i'm doing my FI build that route. She's sleeping for the winter.

 
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davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Ah, gotcha! I wasn't sure if you were going to have it as a DD car. There's this video online, where a guy claims to only have a 10 percent OD pulley, and it sounds about right in terms of psi.......that's a 5.01 second (my stopwatch calculations) 0-60 and the boost (top center gauge) pinned at about 15 psi, in a nearly 4000 lb car. If you can get everything dialed in and have your build still making high horsepower in the upper RPM's (SC setups don't have much after 4000 rpm), you might have a 4-4.5 second 0-60 and maybe in the 11 second 1/4 mile, maybe high 10's, around maybe 3100-3200 lbs. No matter what the horsepower/ torque and dyno says, you're going to have one deadly car.


I can appreciate what you're doing, because I was going to do what you're doing to the Mustang and was looking for a donor SC or whatever I could find for parts.....but then I saw a nice '91 SC come up in the ads for $2000 and it drove and rode beautifully and was too nice to take the engine out of so i'm doing my FI build that route. She's sleeping for the winter.


Currently it is a DD but after all this the green turd will be back on daily duty. I don't know how accurate it is but I use this and got 4.62 0-60 haha
Wallace Racing -Calculate how fast your car goes 0 - 60 mph
ImageUploadedByV6Mustang.com1419311560.804835.jpg


I should be making power to 6000 at least, it's a 224/232 duration .56/.57 lift cam going in. I've thought about doing that in the past a normal supercoupe swap, but got into the M112 stuff and was going to attempt an intercooler version of that. I passed that project onto my friend to finish while I toy with the M90 setup.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Due to lack of current funds and upcoming classes taking huge chunks out of my checks project delayed till summer.. I may toy around with the K member setup since I don't have to buy anything else for it, but that's probably it unless I win the lotto.
 

BRN2RUN

Active Member
I commend you for the stuff that you've done already. I know that horsepower is an addiction to most of us (myself included), but you've done a ton of great things to your car already and have got it to a level that most haven't got it to/ can't take it to.
 

davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Decided to go the safe route, car is apart waiting on the built bottom end from dalke.

Build plans have changed some, heads were sent off to have the exhaust side opened up more. I'm going with the freestar lower intake and a custom built upper, will be like phil's (sixshooter) as he gave me info on how to make it. I also bought his old 1-7/8" primary headers so I won't be restricted on how much Ecuador side can be ported, since headers go all the way to the edges of the stock gaskets now. While it'll all be out I'm going to finally put my bigger cam in (224/232 .56/.57 112). Also, I decided that for sure will be using the zex kit with it unless I come up needing a bunch of extra money. And finally changed from 60 to 80# injectors so I have some room to grow when I pulley down and it can support E85.

Long list but hopefully wrapping up by end of March or in April.
 

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davidcseifert

that V6 guy
Arp2000 grade head studs came in last week along with the stainless steel studs for exhaust which are much shorter than stock so they will barely stick out past the nut once installed clean and won't rust ftw.
 

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