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Driveshaft Question

Discussion in '2011-2014 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Flynner, Feb 19, 2012.

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  1. Flynner

    Flynner New Member

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    I am considering buying a 2011 Mustang V6 Manual condition with 23k miles on it. And I am worried about the stock driveshaft. I accelerate quite quickly form stops its just always been my habit since i started driving. It also gives me that little adrenaline rush to help me avoid speeding. But my question is this constant raise of the RPM's going to increase my likely hood of my stock Driveshaft breaking? I would also like to do one of the flash tunes to increase power. But im worried that the increase in power will will also increase my chances of my driveshaft breaking and I will be the next one to be driving down the road with my driveshaft breaking.
  2. sgramer

    sgramer Big LoZer

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    No, the stock drive shaft can handle much more power than the car can put out stock. Usually it is the universal joint that fails. The weakest point is going tot give, and that will probably be your tires spinning.
  3. Schram1

    Schram1 New Member

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    Alright i am new to this forum i have a lot of mods done on my 2011 v6 mustang im looking for a driveshaft before i put on headers and a dyno tune which drive shaft do you guys think would be better in quality wise its either american muscle axle exchange or shaftmasters 3.5 driveshaft
  4. Zach

    Zach Blank.

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    This is false my friend. Stock drive shafts on 11+ v6 mustangs are known to be the weakest point in the drivetrain on these cars. The two piece design just can hold up to speeds at all and the more power the car makes the more likely it to snap. Upgrade to an aluminum 1 piece driveshaft with a loop. Its expensive but it will save you a ton of headache and possibly save you if the stock one goes.

    Either is fine as long as its a one-piece design
  5. sgramer

    sgramer Big LoZer

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    They used a two piece ?!?!! Those are notorious for failure in almost every other application they have been used in. Wow, that was a poor choice on Fords part. Although, from what I have seem in the past it is usually the center joint or the support that goes. I agree, get the two piece off if you are running any sort of power. All you need to do is look at all the people with HD trucks and the drive line failures.

    I just looked at the 2 piece design on the v6, and wow that center joint is not very stout. And Just as I suspected that is where is letting go.

    Too bad you do not have the choice of using the GT drive line, like P/U trucks do when they swap in a full ton one.
  6. mailpip

    mailpip New Member

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    Does anyone recommend particular drive shafts for the beginning modder?
  7. Schram1

    Schram1 New Member

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    shaftmaster has theirs up its 710 with the safety loop
  8. NC6

    NC6 New Member

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    Until you install a tuner and remove the limiter you don't need to worry about the driveshaft. There are more threads on several boards that document almost all of the failures are in excess of 130+mph. (which you are not going to hit stock). If you are going to go with a custom tune without the limit, then I would get the driveshaft first, assuming you have someplace where you plan to hit 130+ (without an autograph from your local speed trap).

    There are 3-4 aftermarket Drive shafts, and depends on MT or Auto which ones people like. CAI, Exhaust, Tuner, and tires if you have base (without removing limit) will go along way for 0-113 fun!
  9. kobudo

    kobudo Well-Known Member

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    Came here to say this.
  10. Vortech94

    Vortech94 New Member

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    Central Florida Motorsports carries the Driveshaft Shop they are balanced to 19,000 RPM and will handle up to 900 horsepower which to be considered the best driveshaft on the market. They are available in aluminum and carbon fiber, prices start at 719.95.
  11. Bucko

    Bucko Member

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    Where are you going to drive in excess of 135 MPH anyway? If you're at a track, or in Germany, I could possibly see this. Keep in mind that in Germany, it takes several MONTHS of class time and street time to obtain a license, and the cost is over a grand. Not like the states.

    I certainly don't want to see folks driving around the public highways here at those speeds.
  12. David Young

    David Young New Member

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    I have the one American Muscle sells (Axle Exchange). Feels smoother than the factory drive shaft did. Can't go wrong with Shaftmaster or Axle Exchange :)
  13. ponie1992

    ponie1992 Member

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    Why won't the GT driveshaft work? Is it not the same trans and rear end?

    Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
  14. Ltngdrvr

    Ltngdrvr New Member

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    GT shaft is a different length, shorter than the V6 and is a different design, has a carrier bearing in the center and CV style joints on the rear shaft section where the V6 shaft has a sliding section in the center to allow for the articulation of the rear axle and uses u-joints at each end.

    All the V6 shafts that have broken that I know of or have seen were due to greatly over-speeding the shaft or severe harmonics on sudden deceleration on dyno runs.
  15. ponie1992

    ponie1992 Member

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    Man, too bad the GT shaft doesn't fit.
  16. Bucko

    Bucko Member

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    Again, the reported failures were when the driveshaft was spun at speeds equal to 135 MPH. I think a lot of folks that own V6's are reading too much into this. Save your money, unless you plan to run your Mustang at the track. This is way overrated for street applications. In no way is a CAI, an axleback exhaust, a set of headers, or a tune going to get you into speeds in excess of 135 MPH for any period of time or legal street speeds to break a driveshaft. Seriously, save your money.

    But there's always folks that holes in their pocket, and money to spend.
  17. Lincoln3.7

    Lincoln3.7 Member

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    I have the 3.5 Shaftmaster and have no complaints. The car has been up to 150 mph and it was smooth sailing.