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Facts No Fiction On Performance With Your Bolt On Mods

Discussion in '2011-2014 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Duggie, Mar 16, 2014.

  1. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Today I took my old Airaid Throttle Body Spacer Plate and reinstalled it after boring it out to match the BBK 73mm TB. From what I can tell with the street Tune I'm getting 28 mpg with the 3.73 rear. at 70mph and up to 30 mpg at 60 mph. under that it's up to approx. 32.3 mpg. hwy. The only thing I miss is the cool whistle sound it use to make.
     
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  2. Markstang

    Markstang Polishing my banhammer Staff Member

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    I don't know much about how stiff your chassis is so I'm not sure that subframe connectors are immensely helpful for your car specifically. I know the 99-04 bodies like to twist and people always talk about how great the car handles after the connectors are put in. I think subframe connectors would be a good idea for you.
     
  3. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    I think so also I'm going to do some more research and get some advise from others at the events . The good thing is that they are inexpensive but still need to wait to next year. There are different ones also. some for the rear end housing , rear end , then mid to front end.
    I got some photos the Airaid Spacer Plate reinstalled after being bored out to fit the BBK73mm TB . It is a very tight fit a pain to install with the CAI, some say it will not fit but it will with some hard work . My advise is to do it while the motor or rubber connectors are still warm, easier to work over the TB. also photo of my last drag race beating a 99 GT & my car how it looks today after mods .
     

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  4. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Cars are consumables, disregarding the odd museum worthy racecar.

    When engaged in any kind of motorsports its sensible to expect a faster rate of wear and tear. I pay extra attention to my fluid choices, usually spending more for more quality and more often. I also keep track of any leaks. For example the cleanliness inside a wheel can inform you of a axle seal failure or brake caliper problem. I check the play in the front hubs and steering components. I know what causes 99% of the regular noises, and check out any new ones.

    Duggie your car is new, and that can be both an asset and a liability. In autocross or solo cross you're in a controlled environment with few hazards. Its still very possible to damage your car, mostly by driver error. That your car is new ensures that many of the bushings and other wear items in your car are well within tolerances. Aside from gas, you're probably going to wear out tires and brake pads soonest.

    As for sub-frame connectors, I have them installed on my new edge Sn95 chassis. They are a world of benefit for both driving and maintenance. Now for the S197 and your updated S197.5 chassis I don't think subframe connectors are recommended, as the chassis is already sufficiently rigid. Note that Maximum Motorsports does not offer a set for the S197 and did not include any in their road and track package.
     
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  5. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Thanks so much for you your advise. The good thing is also I don't need to push my car so hard until I get the driving skills down and learn the tricks of the trade. It not like I'm going for points at this stage.
     
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  6. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    The Firestone Shop that I went to were very cool. The manager and two of the shop people are into racing. When I got my tires there I also asked about installing my DS, Camber bolts and my front Struts that I got from American Muscle. The book labor was approx. 180.00 according to their time labor book but did the job for 140.00 and remounted my old tires on my stock wheels I still had. I thought that was a good deal because I didn't buy the parts from them .The manager also told me that very time I was going to go SCCA racing to bring the car in so the can adjust the camber or alignment for the track and reset it after with the life time warranty I got . I thought that was great also because it is not like the car was going to be out of alignment anyway. I live in a condo and he even let me keep my 4 wheels there until I found a place to store them . I think I lucked out going to that Firestone Dealer that also course races.
     
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  7. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    so what kind of tires did you get? :naughty:
     
  8. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    Primewells PZ900 BL 255/50/R17[​IMG]
     
  9. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    This is the end of my Suspension install and hope that it as helped with those thinking of lowering or modding their Suspensions. It is also the end I what I can write under the Facts or Fiction . I will be happy and try to answer any question to the best of my knowledge . A few words of advise, research, read reviews and read old posts , that helped me a lot in modding my 14 Stang knowing of the warranty issues. Last week I finish my suspension with the Koni Front Struts and Rear Shocks along with the new Camber Bolts. The suspension is 100% changed over. I never thought I would be doing that to a new car. But that is what I get for buying a basic and building my own car the way I wanted it.
    On the other hand I feel if you are going to lower the car some parts will need to be changed out for they work as a unit and the cost was approx.
    Camber Bolts 25.00
    LC 115.00
    Springs/ Panhard Bar 351.00
    Sway Bars 330.00
    Strut Tower Brace 230.00
    Koni Rear Shocks 60.00 ea. 120.00
    Koni Front Struts 107.00 ea. 214.00
    Total 1,385.00
    The final part sure tied it all up together and I would say even more so of a smoother ride after lowering the car. I did the shocks & Strut last because they were more of a want then a need but with the Eibach Pro Spring kit the car did ride smooth and took out most all the body roll. The Struts & Shocks just inhence the ride and I feel with racing in the SCCA they will help.
    With all the mods , many mods I'm still under the price of the Pony Model and I was getting worried about that, but still with the Pony or the Performance Package you would have to replace a number of the suspension part to achieve the point where you want to lower your car to rid the Wheel & Body Gap.
    Thanks for all the feed back and advise I received in making my posts , It helped me a lot by your comments and to Brent , Phil ll & other Staff members for their input.
     

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  10. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    after reading this it made me go out and check out what kind of tires I have, since I have yet to do so amazingly lol well I have two diff kinds, one pair on the back and one pair on the front
    on front I have Bridgestone potenza RE960as 205/65/15/(94H? What is this number?) treadwear 400 traction AA tempA

    on back I have primewell PS830
    205/65/15 treadwear 460 traction A temp A
    these are the tires that came on the car, I never even thought to look at them until now, just know they're like new lol
    what id like to do is get my car low enough to fit the wheels inside the arches nicely, which I know aside from springs,struts,camberstuff, etc a good set of fatter, larger wheels with better tires will help tremendously with looks and hooking up, which I have a huge problem doing so at the moment lol I've only actually got on WOT from a standstill three or four times, but If I don't roll into it from a stop my one back right tire will spin through first and about halfway through second, just about chirping third, depending on roadsurface, and these are new tires it looks like lol so I think after I replace my ball joints tthey might be my first actual mod, followed by an LSD(and probably gears as well when I'm in there) I'm really interested in some cobra R style wheels and some type of Nittos, though I know they're relatively Expensive, something about knowing Ill have nittos makes me feel all warm and fuzzy don't know why lol
     
  11. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    getsidewayzdrift your tires are the kind that last a long time and are great for highway use. I am surprised at the size. I don't recall what came on my original 16"s. Tire Rack lists the OEM size as 225/55-16, which implies you're missing out on 40mm of contact patch front and rear.

    You could:
    1) keep what you have until they wear out.
    2) spend a little on something like these. I've heard good things about them.
    3) buy new 17" or 18" wheels from LMR or AM.... and rubber to go with.
    4) pick up a set of gt or cobra take-offs, clean them up/paint, and put good rubber on those.
     
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  12. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    I :cry:thought they looked a lil skinny lol do you have any idea what the "94H" means on the potenzas? And isee that fourth number set on those continentals too, which have alot of great reviews on wet traction, which is something I really like, don't like being sideways unless I tell the car to do so hah
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014
  13. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Its the load or speed rating. Check this out.
     
  14. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    man this answers every tire question I could ever come up with hah, thanks!
     
  15. Duggie

    Duggie Duggie

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    The H letter is what my car came with stock the 65 is the width . The higher the letter you will see in performance tires. I had my car checked out before getting tires to make sure there would be no tire rub on the mods and car. I don't like low profile tires for two reasons, 1) the hard ride 2) I'm old school and want some side wall and a smoother ride. I was able to go to 255/50/17 all away around with no problem. The tire I have is pretty sticky but launching is still a problem coming out at 2500 rpms with a manual . I have limited slip and spin both tires first and second hooking up in third. I practiced but I need a better tire if that's what I wanted to do but Drag Racing is not my thing mostly I want to do SCCA Racing. As far as gears I have 3.73 and wished I put in 3.32 I believe they are. Gas mileage would be back up in the 30s even with the mods I have running a Street Tune with the Performance Tune be near 28mpg.
    Gears were the last thing I did and wanted to get my car lowered and the suspension right first. Once the car is lowered the look and the handling was the biggest bang for the buck. Gears are not going to change the appearance or the handling and that's why I say do them last if the gap between the body and tire is the thing you stated you wanted to change first.
     
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  16. Ricky

    Ricky New Member

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    I did the american muscle stage 1 with an intake and a tune on 91 octane and ran a best 14.46. This years I switched to a gt axle with 3.73s and ran a [email protected] while using 109 octane. that was the first 2 stages minus the appearance mods. I have no clue how they run so fast. mt rt was .514
     
  17. Markstang

    Markstang Polishing my banhammer Staff Member

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    reaction time doesn't matter for the et, your 60 foot time tells a lot about how well you launch though, it very nearly determines your elapsed time.
     
  18. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    installed a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter a few days ago(thanks GreenSteeda)
    its an amazing difference, the throw length was easily reduced by half and the shifter is firm and doesn't feel like jello anymore.
    I also changed the trans fluid while I had the shifter off.
    I used mobil1 synthetic ATF and its made a very noticable difference. The shifts are now as smooth as butter.
     
  19. protias

    protias Member

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    Do you still have the M82 transmission? I have some Royal Purple in mine and it is still a tad clunky going from 1-2 and even 2-3.
     
  20. getsidewayzdrift

    getsidewayzdrift one- wheel peelin!

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    mines a T5, what is a M82 in?
    my car has 168k miles so I figured it couldn't hurt to change it, it smoothed it out alot
    my old fluid had a milkyness to it but no metal at all on the magnet