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Finally getting on the track!

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by Feyd, Feb 3, 2016.

  1. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    Hey all, Ive dreamed of racing my whole life and last year I had my first track day with Hooked On Driving. I'm scheduled for 6 track days this year. I have a long list of mods planned but haven't done much yet. Best thing I did so far were Hotchkis anti-sway bars front and rear. I switched to DOT 4 brake fluid and Stop Tech street comp pads. Haven't tracked with new pads so can't comment on track performance yet but they feel the same as OEM on the street. Supper dusty so I will be getting a low dust street set and dedicated track set. Replaced trans fluid with Redline MTL which may have improved things a bit when its warm but still is terrible when its cold. Eventually I am doing the Tremec swap cause I curse the Getrag daily. I have Bridgestone Potenza SO4s 255/45R18 and they have performed very well so far. My next set of street tires will be Continental DWs and I am looking at Enkei RPF1 9.5s with Nitto NT05 first then NT01 275/35R18 for track next year. My next mod will be a 3.73 rear end which will require a tune as well so may do CAI at the same time. Hope to do this soon. Then save save save for the tranny swap which includes a clutch, flywheel and one piece aluminum driveshaft, check out moderndriveline.com After that I will do exhaust; BBK LT with shorty X and MBRP cat-back. Probably throw a TB in there somewhere.
    If you have road racing experience and see a flaw in my plan please let me know. I look forward to discussing ideas and sharing results with all of you.
     
  2. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Welcome to the forum! I too really enjoy the road racing community and track days. I left a reply in your other thread, but I'll share a little more here too.

    First up, you may find this thread to be some good reading.

    I'm glad you are attending to the brakes. The repeated braking seen at the end of each straight can greatly exceed the purpose of oem hardware. I expect street pads will fail when the heat builds up. I use Carbotech pads for track duty. There are numerous other options. The main difference is the race compounds keep working north of 1000 deg F. Its similarly important to note the dry and wet boiling points of the brake fluid. DOT 4 is higher than DOT 3 standards, but some DOT 3 exceeds some DOT 4. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are interchangeable ethyl glycol solutions. DOT 5 is silicone based and to the best of my knowledge an absolutely terrible idea for track duty. If you become super invested in track days, the Brembos will become the better option than continuing with the base brakes.

    The Nitto NT05 is a street tire, the NT01 is a track tire with some shallow grooves cut into it and is much softer. I know that currently the most capable 200tw tire is the Bridgestone RE-71R. As you are already considering a second set of wheels, this would be a decent opportunity to keep the stock wheels for street duty and the other for track only. Tire trailers help make this a really good option. The Hoosier R7's are pretty awesome, but its common wisdom to stay away from slicks until you've racked up the track miles with street tires. In addition to the Contis, you may want to look at Dunlops. I daily on a set of DZ102s; they do very well and Tire Rack is running a special on them.

    Do not ever use a wheel larger than 18". The right 18" wheel will clear 15" brake rotors and caliper.

    The exhaust, throttle body, gears, etc might help you enjoy your time on track. I'd toss those in favor of proper racing seats, roll or harness bar, and harnesses. These are the things I want most when thrashing my car around. The extreme end of wild mods to the engine will interfere with drivability.

    Sobriety check:
    I mentioned seats & harnesses. Its really important to recognize the high risk you accept when on track. In my own region several people have died on track, others only did a lot of damage to their car. Most car insurance policies will not cover any mishap on track.
     
  3. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    I appreciate everything you said, esp. the thread which is priceless and will chew over more than I probably should. This is my DD and will only ever be used in HPDEs, never a true race. I was barely able to convince my wife this would work as a part time family car (I have two young kids who get in and out just fine when we have to use Dad's car) so the interior will stay stock except maybe a steering wheel and peddles. No Cage or race seat.
    I have no interest in large fashion wheels and considered 17s but wanted to be sure of brake clearance just in case I learn larger brakes are necessary. For now I think stock calipers and rotors will suit me just fine. Enkei wheels seem to be the cheapest way to get into a lightweight track set, the above mentioned RPF1s are only 18lbs. Try beating that for under $1200-1500 a piece! Drives me mad that most sites with wheels for sale don't have weight available.
    Regarding tires; I will look into DZ102s for street. My SO4s have a 280tw. check this site out on TW http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shoppers/Tires+Rating My understanding is that it's best to stay on a street tire for a while while you improve before moving to an R compound hence the NT05 (140tw) first, then NT01 (100tw) both are actually DOT so I could conceivably drive on them the 35 min to Roebling Road, my local track. I looked into Hoosier R7s and the consensus seems to be they don't last so I had a long look at BFG G-Force R1s (40tw) but was told they still probably wouldn't last the 6 track days I would like to do annually. I'm hoping to find the best compromise btw grip and one set per season.
    Ultimately all the mods I have in mind (except dedicated track wheels and tires) are things I would want to do to the car even if I never tracked it again. If I do get the full on race bug I will study into what type and get a purpose built car for the class.
     
  4. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    I looked at the DZ102s and at least on paper the SO4 and Continental DW look far superior.
     
  5. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Its really down to your budget for daily driver tires, and how long you want them to last. The Dunlop should easily out last the Bridgestone, idk which Continental tires you're looking at.
     
  6. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    ExtremeContact DW Radial All sizes AA A 340tw, so yes at 460tw the Dunlops should last quite a bit longer and on tirerack are $30 cheaper per tire than the SO4s at OEM sizes.
    By the way, I'm hijacking your quote... just too good hahaha!
     
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  7. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    I think you can get the mt-82 to work well. The key issue is choosing a transmission fluid that will flow well. I recall you're using redline mtl. I suggest the Amsoil synchromesh. This comes from a post here, buried in a tech thread. I also hold of Amsoil, and really like several of their fluids in my applications.

    Additionally you could help it mechanically. You're already going for the mgw. This is good, no-one makes a better shifter.

    The last thing I can offer is to supplement the mgw. iirc there are products such as the CHE torque limiter, or a brace made by blowfish racing that may make that final difference. These products may either truly not be applicable to your car, or be only listed for a gt and actually still work.
     
  8. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    The advice I shared may not be complete. I see Amsoil does not recommend one of their own fluids for the manual transmission. Instead there is this note:

    Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid, Motorcraft P/N XT-11-QDC or
    equivalent meeting Ford spec. WSS-M2C200-D2. For total fluid
    change add 27 mL of XL-18, MT-82 Transmission Additive
     
  9. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    Virtually everywhere I read people preferred Redline MTL over Amsoil, a lot of people at stores talked trash or gave queer looks when Amsoil was brought up and referred to Redline or Royal Purple Synchromesh. That's why I started with Redline and can now say firsthand it did not work for me.

    I'm going to give the Motorcraft Dual Clutch a while before I comment on results. I ordered the XL-18 but I'm not going to decide on adding that until after I install the MGW shifter which, by the way, is the only shifte kit incompatible with the Blowfish brace. I'm intrigued by the CHE torque limiter but again will wait until after I see how the MGW works out (refer to the quote below) as the race spec MGW is not a remote mounted shifter. That said, any increase in rigidity is a plus.

    The CHE Performance 4 Point K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters for the 2005-2014 S197 Ford Mustang will add rigid support for both the front suspension and your driveline, significantly reducing missed shifts caused by the remote mounted shifter on manual transmission cars.

    I really appreciate you Phil, you give me a lot to look into and consider.
     
  10. Feyd

    Feyd Member

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    I swapped to the recommended Motorcraft Dual Clutch and it made a noticeable difference. I only got stopped going to 2nd once but it was still chunky.

    I recently installed an MGW Race Spec shifter and I'm loving it. The springs are much stiffer and it takes effort to push down for reverse. If you tend to drive with your hand on the shift knob you will notice it vibrates more but that's a bad habit you should shake anyway ;) Sometimes there is still the slightest resistance to 2nd so I will most likely add the XL-18, MT-82 Transmission Additive even though it is apparently no longer recommended as the only possible downside I can dig up is that some additives with high sulfur contend eat brass. The additive does not have a lot of sulfur. Or so I read. So when I have time I am adding it as I already have it.

    So at this point the transmission is acceptable and the shifter is incredible and I don't have to save up $5,500 plus labor to install the T56 and I can move toward getting an aluminum driveshaft and 3.73 rear gear.
    (I copy pasted this from another post I replied to so not all is relevant to you)