Fog Light Installation sticky

JRicky

New Member
Something that V6 drivers always have on the to-do list

Fog light install is actually pretty easy...and the wiring, easy. I think in 4th grade you built little circuits that had a 'D' battery hooked up to a light, with a switch inbetween to open and close the circuit..if you don't know what a closed as opposed to open circuit is then maybe this is too much...

before starting off make sure you have all the parts,
fog lights (with brackets),
FD9902FLCD-N.JPG

hardware, wiring, connectors, electrical tape and/or heat shrink, a fuse holder, you will also need the pigtails that plug into the bulbs, an adequate fuse (think 20 or 25 amp), and a switch, best to get an illuminated one so you know if you leave them on or not without having to get out and stare and the front of your car.

of course there are easier ways to go about fog lights...get the factory harness, and switch, and lights from the dealer..thats about $180... the dealer might even order the kit fr you and do the install but I'd never want to know how much that is..

but I got mine all done up for well under $100, and it gave me something to do for an afternoon

Once you get the lights bolted in the bumper its pretty smooth sailing

all you have to do then is craft up your harness, (this is for stand alone foglights that will come on at the switch, and be completely unrelated to headlight operation, Idk in NY its not legal to run high beams and fog lights...so that explains mine

connect the negative ends of the foglight pigtails together and run them up to the negative side of the battery

connect the positive ends of the pigtails together and run that wire into the car, using the hole by the door where the door power control connections pass thru is easiest, and run the wires to where you're going to mount your switch, I bought a round switch and cut the back of the cigarette lighter down by the shifter and popped the switch in there

There are 3 prongs on a switch, power, acc, and the ground, grounding the switch is what will make it illuminate when you have the power on...so run a small wire from the switch to something metal

the power prong on the switch is self explanatory...run a wire from that to the positive on the battery, thats also where you splice in the fuse holder, don't pop in the fuse yet til you're done, don't wanna short out anything laying loose

and the last prong on the switch is where the positive wire from the lights goes.

and VOILA, let there be light... after you pop a fuse in and flip the switch 0X
 

CreationnV3

New Member
Go to a local junkyard and remove the fog light harness of some cars with fog lights, and then wire them to yours way easier
 

getsidewayzdrift

one- wheel peelin!
I wired mine straight.into the parking lights, Brown wire, so if I just want.parking.light s and.fogs, just.turn on.parking.lamps. downside is whenever headlights are on fogs are on, which I dont care about, but someone else might
 

oldfox

Member
Go to a local junkyard and remove the fog light harness of some cars with fog lights, and then wire them to yours way easier

I would think that would be correct. If the wires for the fog lights aren't built in
the factory harness then they would be separate and should be easy to remove
and reuse
 

Gutierrez

Camaro Hater
I can not find a fog light kit for my 98 mustang with all the wiring. Any isea who still carries them??
 

Serpent

Active Member
I wired mine straight.into the parking lights, Brown wire, so if I just want.parking.light s and.fogs, just.turn on.parking.lamps. downside is whenever headlights are on fogs are on, which I dont care about, but someone else might

did my son's the same way. fast, easy and on when the switch is pulled. he likes it like that.
 

08'MustangDude

Profile Violation
As long as your fog lights are not on with the hi-beams, you're fine. DOT
regs are, you're only allowed to have four lights on up front at any given
time. This does not include side-markers, parking lights, and signals...

SO, if your capsules have separate Hi/Lo beam bulbs, and the low stays on when
you activate the hi-beams, the fogs must turn off when the hi-beams are on, else
you have six forward light sources on.

With the single capsule lights, like the 2008, I can have the fogs on with the
hi-beams, because the low beam filament is off when the hi-beams are on.
Even if both the hi/lo firmaments were on, there's still only two headlamps,
and can still get away with the fogs being on.
 

oldfox

Member
I live where there a lot of fog so my fog lights were more out need than just to be cool.
(but they are pretty cool ) In the fog the lights work better if they are the only lights that are on. The headlights light up the fog and make it really tough to see anything.
The fog is usually about 2 feet off the ground that's why they are mounted low as possible.
The fog lights work really well to help you see if they can shine under the fog.
There is a video that shows how buy switching one wire the fog lights will come on
with just parking lights on. -- Great for drive in movies --
 
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08'MustangDude

Profile Violation
Another mistake with FOG lights, is people use the wrong color temperature
bulbs. You need YELLOW light, 4300K or lower for FogLamps. If you go
5000K - 6000K, you will lower visibility as the light scatters through all the
water vapor, and it's actually worse. Fogs used to be AMBER, hi-powered
AMBER. Nothing else works better, doesn't look pretty, but the yellow light
works. 3000K is optimal, any lower is towards red...

3000K is good for Rain, snow, dust, and fog. Have to be at least 1800 lumens,
EACH light. 1000 or less, you're wasting your time and money. 2400 lumens
is good.
 
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