Front Struts!!!

Birdman_stang

New Member
i have a 1995 mustang V6... my front struts are getting worn and i want to replace them... does anyone have a step by step instructional on the change and install??? would i need a spring compressor or not?
 

KTBug

- Kris -
This is probably just a general maintenance question but I'm going to move it to the suspension section. It would be more helpful there. :)
 

greensteeda

Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!
lol i called meineike....they want 650$ to change the struts... is that way to much or what???????
DAMN that is WAY to much. I could get a new set of Koni SAs for that. It is not that hard to do yourself. Its basically three fasteners and thats it for each strut.
 

Jigsaw

New Member
**** that is WAY to much. I could get a new set of Koni SAs for that. It is not that hard to do yourself. Its basically three fasteners and thats it for each strut.
So, front end alignment will not change or need to be realigned after replacing the struts on my 2001 Mustang?
 

BlueSHO

New Member
no need for alighnemnt on my 1995... will i need a spring compressor? or just follow those directions exactly
You don't need a spring compressor. The spring sits inboard of the strut, so it isn't in your way, and there is no need to remove it to just swap the struts out. The only part of the job that can be tricky is getting the nut off the end of the strut shaft, because you have to prevent the shaft from turning, but it's not that difficult.

When you see how easy this job is, you will be seriously pissed that a place charges $650 to do it! :lol:

Do be sure to have a breaker bar on hand, as the hardware is large stuff that is usually quite tight. :thumbup:
 

Birdman_stang

New Member
You don't need a spring compressor. The spring sits inboard of the strut, so it isn't in your way, and there is no need to remove it to just swap the struts out. The only part of the job that can be tricky is getting the nut off the end of the strut shaft, because you have to prevent the shaft from turning, but it's not that difficult.

When you see how easy this job is, you will be seriously pissed that a place charges $650 to do it! :lol:

Do be sure to have a breaker bar on hand, as the hardware is large stuff that is usually quite tight. :thumbup:
its ok i have air tools lol
 

cgrant26

Chiroptera Parvulus
Just make sure that you load the A-arm with a jack before loosening the strut nut as at full droop, there will still be some compression on the spring. Also, the arm will drop down quite a bit more once you remove the nut so take the ABS wire (if equipped) out of the retention clips up top and unbolt the caliper and support it or you risk damaging the brake line. Once you support the A-arm, my suggestion would be to unbolt the strut from the spindle before removing the top strut nut. This should make it easier to get out.
 

hellspawn140

New Member
Just replaced mine a month ago. It's really easy.
1. Jack your car
2. Remove tire
3. Support A-frame (wooden blocks work)
4. Remove two lower bolts
5. Remove upper nut and drop out strut. Be prepared I had to cut these off with a ziz wheel.
6. Installation is the reverse.
I was also advised to mark the bolts and reinstall them in the exact poition I removed them. Did this with a little white paint. Supposed to help keep your allignment. Rear struts are the same just access is through your trunk for the upper nuts.
 

Jester4Kicks

pwn-hawk
Just replaced mine a month ago. It's really easy.
1. Jack your car
2. Remove tire
3. Support A-frame (wooden blocks work)
4. Remove two lower bolts
5. Remove upper nut and drop out strut. Be prepared I had to cut these off with a ziz wheel.
6. Installation is the reverse.
I was also advised to mark the bolts and reinstall them in the exact poition I removed them. Did this with a little white paint. Supposed to help keep your allignment. Rear struts are the same just access is through your trunk for the upper nuts.
Pretty much... although I wouldn't use wooden blocks. Just get your jack under there and use it to support the a-frame. Then when you're ready to lower it, all you have to do is slowly let the jack down.
 

hellspawn140

New Member
I did not see how the allignment could change. It was just some advice I was given. Either way it will not hurt to mark the bolt positions.
 

OriginalSin

New Member
Yes, you will need an alignment. Don't ruin a set of tires. If they're not new and you're strapped for cash you can probably wait, but I wouldn't.
 

OriginalSin

New Member
I did a 2" drop, Cobra brake upgrade, new rear calipers, new pads and drilled and slotted rotors front and rear, changed both front struts, both rear shocks, and a front wheel bearing / front hub assembly, and it only took me 2 days. with 4 hours work each day.

This is a job you can do yourself. Just make sure you have the right tools.
 

cgrant26

Chiroptera Parvulus
Sooo.... alignment change or not???
There is enough slop between the strut to spindle mount holes and the bolts to change the alignment a bit. This is especially true with Bilstien struts as the holes are enlarged purposely to allow some camber adjustment at the spindle to strut interface and as an adjustability fix for coilover/tire interference. A lot of AI guys will drill small holes through the strut ears and spindles (once mounted and aligned) and put roll pins in to prevent them from coming out of alignment.
 

greensteeda

Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!
There is enough slop between the strut to spindle mount holes and the bolts to change the alignment a bit. This is especially true with Bilstien struts as the holes are enlarged purposely to allow some camber adjustment at the spindle to strut interface and as an adjustability fix for coilover/tire interference. A lot of AI guys will drill small holes through the strut ears and spindles (once mounted and aligned) and put roll pins in to prevent them from coming out of alignment.
As well as weld on a **** ton of supports so the ears don't rip off.
 
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