Fusebox dimensions

BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
Hi everyone, I dropped off here a while back because my 1999 'Vert got between a drunk driver and his sandwich.

The car is beyond repair, but the drivetrain is being transplanted into an old Mercury Zephyr.

I'm at sea (at work on a ship) and one of my co-workers owes me a favor and suggested making a bracket so I can mount the SN95 under-dash fusebox in the stock Zephyr fusebox location. I had planned on doing that eventually, but having a skilled welder available to tig one up out of a chunk of scrap aluminum is probably way nicer than my plan of using a piece of sheet metal and aviation shears.

Can someone get me the dimensions of the face of the fuse panel, and the distance between each of the 3 mounting screws?

[Shameless Plug] If you post it, I'll post pictures of the V6 Zephyr project! [/Shameless Plug]

Thanks!
 

BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
I'm not sure, I think it changed in 1999.

The older fusebox had the round flasher in the corner and used normal size blade fuses; the newer style like mine uses the mini fuses in even rows and the flasher is part of one of the electronic modules, not on the box.
 

BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
Google found this picture; if no one can get the distance between the screw centers and of the box overall, I'll just see if I can scale it; I think the screw heads are 10mm?
FUSE BOX AFTER.JPG
 

6 Shooter

Well-Known Member
Looking at your picture above, the center of the holes along the top where the silver thing is mounted, is 3 1/4 inches center hole to center hole. Along the left side, the hole to hole centers are 3 3/8 inches exactly.

BTW, do not do any welding of brackets any where near the console, dash, or PCM. YOU WILL FRY some of the electronic sensors which will take forever to track down what is out of calibration or destroyed inside. You will enter the world of tuning hell as well. Make your bracket away from the car and bolt it up under the dash.
 

BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
Thanks everyone. Don't worry, the electronics are out of the car while I test fit everything. I'm at sea currently, with just enough wire to run my PCM and set up an initial tune with SCT Advantage. The plate we're making out here will hold the fusebox so it can be bolted to the dash support in about the same location as the early fox fusebox; it will be a pretty aluminum piece instead of a couple pieces of bent strapping which is what I would have used if he hadn't offered.

Pictures in next post; hoping to get it done sometime this summer (I have to rent garages to work in when I'm not at sea, so I spend as much time moving it as I do working on it).
 

BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
Who would have guessed ebay cheap headers would look so good? Too bad they hit everything in the engine bay and didn't line up with the exhaust pipes. Ended up wasting a week trying to tweak them to clear the steering, the firewall, the dipstick...and finally went to a new set of factory manifolds (both my factory manifolds cracked in the accident or when the car was being shuffled around after).
 

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BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
Very much a work in progress yet. The Windstar intake also got cracked in the accident, I tried to make a 4.2 truck manifold work but it's too tall even for the Zephyr hood. Originally the car was going to get a Coyote but the budget has left for a while, and I decided I might as well drive the car while I wait. There is a hydroboost setup from a '99 GT in my parts box, but since I am using the 3.8 for now, I'll use the vacuum brakes for now and spare the plumbing hassle. Lots of room for forced induction if I go that route, but probably would cost about the same to blow the car up with an ebay turbo kit, as to buy a used Coyote or Ecoboost.
 

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BGreyWolf

Inliner getting bent.
The Mercury when I got it, and a few pictures of my poor departed Mustang. Now I will have 1 runner instead of 2 paperweights. Nice how much stuff interchanges between 2 "completely different cars" that were built 20 years apart.
 

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