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How to build a V6 cheap.

Discussion in 'Mustang Talk' started by Pinto Beast, Apr 11, 2005.

  1. Pinto Beast

    Pinto Beast boom, outa' here

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    Most people buy the v6 for the lower amount of money that it takes to get into the car, be it insurance or just cheaper price. Most people are left wanting more out of their car and I hear all the time on here that it takes a small fortune to make a V6 go fast. That is not true. It seems to me that the people that are complaining about it the most are the people with the most appearance mods.

    I think if you are working on modding a car and working on a tight budget you must make a choice. You can go for appearance and the car will look great but still feel like your driving a Taurus or you can leave the appearance as is (which I don’t think they look bad at all) and focus on performance. With a small investment, less than the cost of putting a super charger on and hopefully get to the high 13’s or low 14’s I’ll tell you how to mod the car to run 12’s for around $3,000. Learn to do the work yourself. If you can’t and your not rich then modding a car might not be for you. Read books, jump in and do it and learn as you go, nothing is that hard that it can’t be learned through doing it. There are plenty of places to ask questions and get answers.

    First off, go with the biggest bang for the buck mods, and a cold air intake is not one of them. All of the mods that I’m going to suggest is big bang for the buck mods.

    First- UD pullies- They are not a must but they do help. For the $80-90 you will spend on them new they are worth a couple of horse power. They are not a big gain item. Look for used gears, used just means cheaper.

    Your cost is at $85

    Exhuast- Not a real big gainer either unless you have bigger mods to support it. You don’t have to spend an arm and a leg on exhaust. You can go to a muffler shop and have them build you a dual set up cheaper than what any cat-back or after market company can offer after shipping. I paid $250 for my duals with flowmasters. I wouldn’t pay much over that for an exhaust system.

    Cost is at $335

    T-loc- If you are pushing any power you want to be able to get traction. I’m using a used T-loc that has been rebuilt. I’ve had it in my car now for 5 years under some pretty good abuse and never had a problem. I paid $100 for mine, look for a deal on one I wouldn’t pay any more than $250 for one on a budget.

    Gears- Make a choice 3.73’s or 4.10’s. See which ones will be right for you. Gears are something that personally I would not get used. I bought Richmonds new and never had a problem with them for $165. I would not suggest installing your own gears and T-loc unless you really know what you doing so I factored in an average $300 installation fee.

    Cost is at $1050 ($165 for gears), ($250 for T-loc), ($300 for installation)

    K&N filter- I personally think that a K&N filter in the stock air intake tube is just as good as a CAI. That is just my opinion so I would spend the $25 for the filter and leave it at that.

    Cost is at $1075

    Cam- You will really notice a big difference in the car with a cam. I am using a 207 cam from RPM and really like it. All in all they are a little tricky to install but nothing that anyone who was taking their time and had a good over view of the procedure with a manual couldn’t do. I paid around $180 for my cam.

    Heads- These will make the biggest difference in performance. They are pricy though too. Super Six sells a pretty good set for around $1000. I got mine from Gaston who P&P’s them (from V6power.com) for $500. I really like them and he did a fantastic job. While the heads are off this is the best time to do the cam, no worries about holding the valves up and just makes things simpler to do. I also think putting valve spring on heads is a lot easier when they are not on the car.

    Valve springs- You will need to get a set of valve springs to go along with the cam and perhaps some push rods. I suggest the adjustable roller rockers and then you can keep you stock push rods. Expect to pay around $100 for a set of springs.

    Gaskets- they are more expensive than you think. For upper and lower intake, head, water pump and front seal along with head bolts it cost me around $250. I got all Fel-pro stuff.

    Cost is at $2355 ($750 for heads), ($180 for cam), ($100 for valve springs), ($250 for gaskets)

    Roller rockers- They make a big difference over stock rockers and you can tell why when you look at them side by side. I suggest the adjustable rockers.They are aroung $255 for non adjustable and $360 for adjustable.

    Cost is at $2715

    Nitrous- nitrous is the biggest bang for the buck mod there is. With no other mod can you spend $500 and get 100 hp out of it. I like the Zex kits but NX is also a very good brand. You can save a lot of money getting a used kit. Ebay is always full of them and they come up for sale on the boards from time to time. I paid right around $500 for mine and around another $150 for accessories.

    Cost is at $3365

    Tuner or chip- I like the SCT X-cal. For $420 you can’t get a better deal. Chips can tune as well but you are stuck with what is on the chips and if you change your tune needs they have to be sent off and reprogrammed. The chips run around $350.

    Cost is at $3785 ($420 for tuner)

    Other misc stuff your going to need along the way like a Maf can be found for cheap as well used. I found my maf for free from a friend. Keep your eyes open for any thing you think you might need. If you can get a part for free and you might not use it you can always sell or trade it for something that you do need.

    Auto's may need additional help as well. The addition of a higher stall torque converter would help tons with the aod


    Last year GT’s went for around $23800
    V6 mustang sold for around $18900
    Difference of $4900

    The build I described and priced out will have you putting car lengths on GT with ease for around a $1000 less than they paid for their car as is.
     
    getsidewayzdrift likes this.
  2. tomzac

    tomzac 232 or 330

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    And the look on the GT guy's face when he or she finds out they were beat by a 6er would be priceless. ;)

    Nice write.
     
    JeDanRo likes this.
  3. greensteeda

    greensteeda Retired Speed Racer Mod. Suck It!

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    thank you. to all those saying "might as well buy a gt, its the same price after the mods". this proves them wrong. add on the experience you get with doing all these mods yourself and you get more out of the six than the stock gt. good write up. hope to be gettin a great job this summer and i will be well on my way. by the way did you ever get you car on the dyno. i know you said you were but i dont want to miss the numbers. :)
     
  4. Kuplex

    Kuplex Retired Admin

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    Not unless you can get all that for ~$100. [​IMG] (I'm just jerking your chain, btw, before you explode on me)

    Nice write-up Pinto Beast. I haven't seen a Best-Bang-For-Your-Buck V6 modification guide before. One of the best mods I did to my 95 was ported heads, but most people overlook to hidden stuff like cams, rockers, etc. It surprised me the difference a H/C/I/R swap could for a stock V6 stang. :thumbup:
     
  5. tomzac

    tomzac 232 or 330

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    Since the depreciation of the 6 is greater than the 8, a low mileage used 6 will distance that cost by thousands. :D
     
  6. V6RStang

    V6RStang 238 Cubic Inches :D

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    awesome write up man... this should be Sticky'd!!!!!
     
  7. Kuplex

    Kuplex Retired Admin

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    Oh yeah! Then I'll buy a Pacer and cram in a 440! Ha! There! It'll be ugly as sin, but it'll be fast. [​IMG]
     
  8. Pinto Beast

    Pinto Beast boom, outa' here

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    Thanks for the kind words guys :thumbup:
     
  9. tomzac

    tomzac 232 or 330

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    Wow, GT people are so fragile. :lol:
     
  10. Rhyno2211

    Rhyno2211 New Member

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    best write up i have ever read itll help me out a lot thanks bro :thumbup:
     
  11. MaestroSC

    MaestroSC Are you ready for the....

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  12. bluetuesday13

    bluetuesday13 V ^_^

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    inspiring. youre split port right?
     
  13. GSRGuy94

    GSRGuy94 Not a Mod... Yet

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    This is a good writeup for those wanting to get their V6s in the 12s or 13s. I know Pinto Beast realizes this, so this isn't for him; 12s or 13s is about the extent of the "ease" of mods in the V6. Any faster requires lots more money, time, and patience, but with the right skills and a little money, you don't have to feel "stuck" anymore :thumbup:
     
  14. 03_V6_Stang

    03_V6_Stang New Member

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    Pinto Beast, good write up
    After you do those "upgrades" what kind of horsepower is going to the rear wheels?
     
  15. wilderness

    wilderness is god

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    nice write pinto, i vote for sticky.
     
  16. PurpleDoggy

    PurpleDoggy I'm the 1%

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    How bad would all those mods listed above kill your gas mileage? I want to give my daily driver some pepp but I can't afford to fill the tank every day.
     
  17. sixpackstang

    sixpackstang New Member

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    Nice write-up. :thumbup: I definately wish I would've saved awhile longer and put ported heads on when I did my split port swap, or at least a cam. But I'll be graduating from college this year and won't be on such a tight budget so I'll probably have the money for a few more worth-while mods.
     
  18. 6gofast

    6gofast New Member

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    Pinto Beast, I know that you're more of an N/A or nitrous guy, but for thoughs of you looking for FI fun, you can get running with a turbo kit from andy and all the other little odds and ends for about the same price. Running 8psi on a stock engine is no problem and turbos are lots of fun. :D

    Awsome thread, I vote sticky, we just need to let people know that there are a plethora of options, not just the N/A route.
     
  19. vertstang232

    vertstang232 New Member

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    good write up, i wish i knew more when i first got my car, but sticking around here for 3 years helps out a lot
     
  20. tommyj03

    tommyj03 New Member

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    wonderful, i hope i can find this when its time to start doing some of these things