So my brother's 2006 v6 has a tick/knock, but more knock, or an aggressive tick. It goes with the rpm of the engine. I have pulled the valve covers off and check the lifters and the top "oil sprayer"(you know the one above the cam). I have looked up this "oil sprayer" but can't really find what the actual name of the part is. With the valve cover off it seems that everything is getting oil. The "oil sprayer" has a piece of the mount broken off though. It is stable, but i am wondering if the oil pressure might be effected by this break? Could that cause a tick/knock? If it isn't a top end issue, which is what im thinking, what would cause a tick/knock noise in the lower end?
Should i be worried about a missing piece of metal, probably in the timing area? probably... ill have pictures soon
Knock or tick in the low end is never good.
Main Bearing Noise
Damaged or worn main bearing noise is revealed by dull thuds or knocks which happen on every engine revolution. This noise is loudest when the engine is under heavy load. Excessive crankshaft end play is indicated by an intermittent rap or knock sharper than a worn main bearing.
The following are causes of main bearing noise:
- Low oil pump pressure
- Thin, diluted or dirty oil and/or filter
- Excessive main bearing clearance
- Excessive crankshaft end play
- Out-of-round crankshaft journals
- Loose crankshaft pulley
- Loose flywheel or torque converter
- Loose main bearing cap
Connecting rod Bearings
A damaged or worn connecting rod bearing will produce knock under all speeds. During the early stages of wear, connecting rod noise may be confused with piston slap or loose wrist pins. Connecting rod knock noise increases in volume with engine speed and is at its loudest on deceleration.
The following are causes of connecting rod bearing noise:
- Excessive bearing clearance
- Worn crankshaft connecting rod journal
- Thin, diluted or dirty oil and/or filter
- Low oil pressure
- Crankshaft connecting rod journals out-of-round
- Misaligned connecting rod
- Connecting rod bolts not properly torqued
- The wrong bearing inserts or misaligned bearing half
Timing Chain and Gears
Engines designed with timing gears, or those equipped with a timing chain and sprockets, can produce different noise. The most common noise is a high frequency, light-knocking sound. This sound will generally be the same in intensity whether the engine is idling, operating at high speeds, or under load.
The following are causes of timing gear or chain and sprocket noise:
- Worn timing chain and/or gears
- Misaligned gears
- Excessive backlash
- A damaged tooth
- Gear or sprocket loose on the shaft
- Too much end play in the camshaft or crankshaft
Cam gear noise will usually be evident at a warm idle in neutral and sounds much like a loose timing chain noise.
Piston pin, piston, and connecting rod noise are hard to separate. A loose piston pin, for example, causes a sharp double knock usually heard when the engine is idling, or during sudden acceleration then deceleration of the engine. A piston pin that has been improperly fitted will emit a light ticking noise that is more noticeable with no load on the engine. Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance will cause piston slap noise. The noise is similar to a metallic knock, as if the piston were "slapping" the cylinder wall during its stroke. As with most engine noise, understanding the cause of the noise will help you imagine what the noise sounds like. An indication of piston slap is a decrease in noise as the engine warms up. When the engine is cold, the piston to bore clearance is greater and piston slap will be louder.
A loose or cracked flywheel will produce an irregular thud or click. To test for a loose or cracked flywheel, operate the vehicle at approximately 32 km/h (20 mph) and shut off the engine. If a thud is heard, the flywheel may be loose or damaged. This type of thud is loudest on deceleration. Loose torque converter-to-flywheel or flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts will sound similar to bearing knock. This condition produces several raps during quick acceleration on a free running engine. Depending on the idle smoothness, when the transaxle is in gear, the noise may or may not appear. Check the torque converter-to-flywheel and the flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts before attempting to investigate any bearing-related knock.
I have seen some top end oil starved valve-trains, and that doesn't look like the
head is not getting oil.
Found this for ya: https://themustangsource.com/servic...D_ASSEMBLY_OF_SUBASSEMBLIES/Cylinder_Head.pdf
If you look at the diagram that shows the oil supply tube, it is held on by 2 brackets,
It holds the tube in place, so oil doesn't get past the opening. You may just need a
new oil supply tube, and it will come with the brackets welded on. The bracket looks
like it is broken, and won't hold the tube in place correctly.
There is oil up there in the valve assembly, but is there less oil as you go more towards the right?
Here is what they look like, bracket NOT broken:
This one, you can see the oil holes for the cam lobes. There isn't much area where the
bracket is attached to the tube, so on yours, it's still up against the tube, and just
might still be attached, just less area.
If there is no attachment to the supply tube, it may be lifting up on the side where the bracket broke,
and oil is getting past the tube, not a good seal anymore. This means the cam lobes are insufficiently
oiled, but still getting some.
You can get a pair of these on eBay for $36.00. These ones look like an updated part, as there is another
bracket right after the bend on these, and I see yours does not have that bracket. You should still have
the one at the other end, which is the only thing holding it in place, if there is no hold in the tube at the
This will not effect overall oil pressure, not to the bottom end anyway. So, you would not get an
oil pressure warning.