Project New beginning

I cant remember if I checked the o2's now or not. good call I'll check that out.

 

Ok I checked my o2's and there are working like they should and both of them are moving these the same amount and at the same time. I can only assume that there is a vacuum leak some were. On the bright side the computer is learning how to compensate for it with the exception of tip-in.

 

Will do.

 

Sorry 6 shooter. I haven't been able to send you the info. my laptop with my tuning software died. I'm trying to get it fixed at the first of the year.

 

I know its been a long time since I posted. I got the car running good again and then It took a turn for the worst, started acting like it had a big vac leak. I've found the T-body is really screwed now, I had put new seals in it but they weren't compatible with methanol so the just fell a part after 3 months. I've ordered a new t-body and am hoping this is going to fix every thing now.

 

I got the new T-body and cut up a stock one to get the throttle arm off of it and this is what I got. now I can remove the arm if I need a new T-body ever again.

 

Well I finally made it to the track last Friday to do some tuning and second pass the crank sensor craps out. So just one more set back in a long string. hopefully she will be back up and running today. but on a side not on the first pass I launched the car in 2nd gear to get a good long data log and still managed a 12.90 pass with 14 deg's timing and a bad lean condition.

 

Just a little update:
I fixed my tpms and went back to the track first pass the throttle got stuck open and sent me for a wild ride to the end of the track. I got her slowed down enough to make the u-turn at the end (20mph hard U-turn not fun).
I took the car home and haven't moved it sense, that's been 3weeks Ill be working on it soon and making one more trip before the season is over.

 

Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. JTsStang it looks promising but it might give up efficiency on the top end of the rpm.

But good news I got a cool night to go to the track and ran my best
[email protected]

 

luckily I didn't have it that bad, things could have been worse.
I couldn't find the cause either and it only happens when its hot or you use your foot on the pedal, if you open it by hand It dosent do it.

 

Here's the video of my pass. Watch the boost gauge on the left of the gauge pod. The gauge maxes at 20psi and it almost wraps around to the vac side.

 

When my t-body hangs I can open the hood force it closed be hand, but when you let go it will pop back open. If you keep forcing it shut it will finally stay until you go wot down the road again.

 

I need some suspension and chassis work done thats as good as I can get it with just UPR rear control arms. Every thing else is stock with 200k and no subframe connectors or cage.