Project New beginning

JTsStang

Boosted V6
Sub frames aren't going to help it. My setup did a 1.29 60' last Sunday and I have no sub frames. My setup is strange 10 way shocks/struts, team z poly uppers, steeda arb, j&m poly lowers, and eibach prokit. Had bags in each spring but keep them deflated now. A trans brake would help you quite a bit as well.

You need to bring that car down here to motormile dragway sometime next year.
 
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38stang

Active Member
Sub frames aren't going to help it. My setup did a 1.29 60' last Sunday and I have no sub frames. My setup is strange 10 way shocks/struts, team z poly uppers, steeda arb, j&m poly lowers, and eibach prokit. Had bags in each spring but keep them deflated now. A trans brake would help you quite a bit as well.

You need to bring that car down here to motormile dragway sometime next year.

All I've got is the UPR pro upper and lower control arms, 8 way adjustable shocks and no rear sway bar. Not having a bar might be part of the problem.

Motormile dragway is about 3 hours away from me I'd have to plan that one out. I'm in the Richmond VA area. It would be nice to race with someone else that has a fast v6. I'm the only one around here.
 

38stang

Active Member
If you were to install a trans-brake you would definatlly benefit from an antiroll bar. I got the steeda but wish I would of went teamz. It would e real cool to race with another fast v6. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/product_p/tzm-xd-arb.htm
I would like to have a trans brake. But I need a stub shaft swap first or it will snap from the hit off the trans brake. I've seen it a number of times and it usually takes the drum with it.
 

38stang

Active Member
Well I finally found the hung WOT problem. The screws for the throttle blade where loose and the blade was shifting around just enough to make it stick open. lucky for me the screws had been battered on the end so they wouldn't come all the way out. I'm not sure I'd recommend a SVE throttle body any more. Other than that I haven't done much after the season ended. I'm trying to get the money together for a cage in the spring or I'm not doing any racing this year, seeing as they kicked me out last year for not having one. I'm also thinking about upping the W/M shot from a 500cc jet to a 1000cc jet and a few more deg. of timing
 

Spdricer

Active Member
Wow.. the throttle blade loose who woulda thought

Did you ever figute out why you had to retune it

Are you still running the correction tune

And the feeling like a vac leak what was the fix for that?
 

38stang

Active Member
Wow.. the throttle blade loose who woulda thought

Did you ever figute out why you had to retune it

Are you still running the correction tune

And the feeling like a vac leak what was the fix for that?

The throttle body had a big seal leak on the shaft. So I had to replace it with the sve throttle body, that was the reason why I had to read Tunes.
 

Spdricer

Active Member
All I've got is the UPR pro upper and lower control arms, 8 way adjustable shocks and no rear sway bar. Not having a bar might be part of the problem.

I was under the impression that you need a system that changes the pivot points

By adjusting the pivot points you will be looking to try to get the axle to push straight down to asphalt and a little forward like the back wheels are tucking towards the front wheels when the load is being put the harder the hit the more it points the wheels forward and down the more the tires stick the harder the hit..

Anything else is to either enhances this effect or works parallel and dosent disturb it..
 

38stang

Active Member
I was under the impression that you need a system that changes the pivot points

By adjusting the pivot points you will be looking to try to get the axle to push straight down to asphalt and a little forward like the back wheels are tucking towards the front wheels when the load is being put the harder the hit the more it points the wheels forward and down the more the tires stick the harder the hit..

Anything else is to either enhances this effect or works parallel and dosent disturb it..
When you making a lot of power the body will roll to the right and unload the right rear tire. With a anti roll bar like one from UPR or the other manufacturers it helps plant that tire and keep it from unloading and spinning.
 

Spdricer

Active Member
Im pretty sure u missed my point...

However i have absolutely no experience in this at all and ive read your stuff and its really good
I know ur way deeper in this than me and its highly unlikely that you built one of the fastest v6 mustangs but didnt learn this along the way but hey.. mayb you did

If you look at the back of a pro mod they have what is available for our cars but in a way more exaggerated fasion and alot more/easier adjustability without having to get under the car

If its set wrong the tires will spin more times than not...

The sway bar is an addition and works parallel to enhance the above set up..

Spdricer
 

38stang

Active Member
Im pretty sure u missed my point...

However i have absolutely no experience in this at all and ive read your stuff and its really good
I know ur way deeper in this than me and its highly unlikely that you built one of the fastest v6 mustangs but didnt learn this along the way but hey.. mayb you did

If you look at the back of a pro mod they have what is available for our cars but in a way more exaggerated fasion and alot more/easier adjustability without having to get under the car

If its set wrong the tires will spin more times than not...

The sway bar is an addition and works parallel to enhance the above set up..

Spdricer
Sorry I wasn't very clear.
Your point is valid and correct. I was just trying to say you also need to control the chassis movement as well. That can and will affect traction as well with a high powered car.
 

castelano

Member
I know nobody has replied to this thread in about 2 months, but I felt the need to do that. The last video you posted was crazy! Your engine sounds so good, I hope you're proud of your work. Keep up the good work, mate! Cheers!
 

38stang

Active Member
Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. I finally ordered the cage and installed it. And I also re-adjusted the rear suspension, centered the diff and reset the pinion, it may need a few more deg's. but for now Im testing with it 2 degs down


 

38stang

Active Member
Its been a long time and I don't know if anyone is on here anymore. but here it goes.
I still have the car and have added a full UPR chromoly front suspension and solid motor mounts. I also upped the meth to a 1000cc nozzle and pushing 35# of boost through the thing. I haven't been to the track sense before covid be she ran a [email protected] and on that pass I managed 3 blown cylinders and the power steering pump blowing up all over the track right before the finish line. I should be able to run a low 10 if I can find a track to go to now that mine has closed permanently.
 

Flex

Kicker of Arrogant Asses
Not sure who is left. I am currently building a 20 over motor out of a supercoupe for my 94. It will be MPX supercharged on a heavily modded motor.
 

Flex

Kicker of Arrogant Asses
I didn't intend to replace the engine with the intent of going over 350 hp. I bought the super coupe motor from a friend cheap when the mild n/a motor started knocking. Oddly enough from being started too infrequently of all things. It should have just been about 270 hp and was a relatively fresh rebuild. I took it apart to freshen the gaskets and noticed some odd wear patterns in the bearings and bores. My machinist said the rebuilder was a hack so I decided to install the rebuild kit I was saving for my super coupe.

I had the 20 over Diamond pistons coated so that we could just put a fresh hone on the block and use file fit Total Seals. I had him modify the mains to accept ARP studs and a 94/95 windage tray. I had a CMRE stage 2 cam and bought new motorsport 302R lifters. I had a set of heads that I got in a package deal but they too were a butcher job. The guy who installed the studs either used a crappy drill press or somehow damaged the threads. Once torqued in place, you could wobble them with your finger. I had my guy install new stainless 1 inch inserts and I purchased Chevy ARP aluminum head studs cut down to about 1.2 inches. I bought the split pushrod guides Comp makes and my brother tig welded them together when they were properly set. Heads are majorly welded and ported with titanium 1.96" Int and 1.65" exhaust sitting on alloy seats and bronze guides. I used Comp beehive springs, titanium 10 degree retainers and titanium lock. With the Scorpion 1.7 rockers, final lift is about .570.

I also had Comp seamless pushrod and a Meling high volume pump and modified 4.2 truck pan. I modified the oil pickup to allow for a greater draw. My brother is filling in the intake so that I can port it and modifying the inlet elbow for better flow and to allow a front mount to hook up better. I haven't bough one yet as I am not sure which is better. I have the usual bolt ons. Overdrive jackshaft and blower pulleys, underdrive for accessories, 85mm MP throttle body and MPX blower, 85mm C&L maf.

I guesstimate about 200 hp more than the original
 
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