Raymond
`
Yes, I realize we already have a detailing thread courtesy of MichaelB21. 'twas a great thread, very helpful... but unfortunatley it has since been un-stickied, and since I did this little write up for my local forums, I figured I would share it here and see if it helped anyone.
This is not a how-to on professionally detailing your car and make it look new again. Everything here is done by hand, applied by hand, and everything can be purchased relatively cheaply at Walmart, or any automotive store (AutoZone, etc).
For the initial wash I'd suggest Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo (it comes in a large jug, and the liquid is gold)... and I use a soft mitt for the washing. I'm not going to explain the washing process because I feel it's pretty self explanatory.
EDIT: Waffles has been kind enough to explain the proper way to wash your car, so I figured it would be good to add it here:
To dry, use an absorber, it's in the picture on the top left. Rinse it off before you use it, and ring out the water... now it's ready to use. Run it over the paint fairly gently, starting at the top of the car and working your way around and down. As it gets filled with water ring it out and keep going.
For the interior, I use Black Magic Interior Detail spray, also in the picture... I apply it with a microfiber cloth and spray a small amount onto the cloth and rub it in before I apply it to the doors, dash, and anything black plastic. A little goes a long way with that stuff, and if you use a lot it will leave the surface greasy and I hate that. I might try something different once I run out of it.
For the leather on the door panels and the seats, I use Meguiars Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. I apply it with two separate microfibers. I spray it directly onto the seats, rub it in good with one microfiber towel, let it sit for a little while, and then rub off the excess with another microfiber towel.
For the carpet on the floor, I just use a vacuum I have at home to get it clean, if it ever gets stained I use carpet cleaner (not pictured, anything will work)... and if you ever get bubble-gum stuck into the carpet, use Goo-B-Gone. They sell it everywhere and comes in a small container, rub a little bit in the spot, then wipe it off. Usually works very easily.
For the trim on the dash (like the chrome aftermarket stuff), the head unit, etc... I don't really apply anything to it, just wiping it down with a dry towel will remove any fingerprints and dirt.
The windows... the tinted ones I use the Windex that I have in the picture, it's made specifically for tinted windows and does not contain ammonia, which will dry out the tint and make it turn purple over time. Make sure whatever you apply to the tinted glass doesn't have ammonia in it because of that. I apply that with a couple paper towels, then rub it off later with a microfiber to get rid of the smears. On the windshield (not tinted), I use normal Windex with the same method.
For the wheels and tires, I have another soft mitt that I use (different from the one I use on the paint), and a different bucket. I use the same car wash soap though... and I usually keep an old rag to use to wipe down inside the rim (behind the spokes) and the inner fender well. The outside of the rim gets the mitt and nice soap, works just like the paint. Also dry with an absorber. If you have painted rims, you can wax them like normal paint to make them shine better when they get old. For my Chrome cobra rims, when they start looking dull I'll give them a coat of Mothers Chrome Polish.
For the exterior black plastic trim, namely when it starts to fade, or you get wax dried on it... I use Mothers Back to Black (pictured). It applies just like wax, I use a foam applicator and rub a decent amount into the plastic, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off with a microfiber. It usually looks weird right after you do it (like filmy almost), but after the next time it rains or you wash the car you can really tell the difference, aka the trim comes out looking new.
If you're feeling ambitious and want to detail the engine, any engine degreaser will work on the metal stuff. In the picture on the top right you can see what I use, it's some cheap stuff I bought years ago that just happens to work really well. Just don't get it on paint or plastic parts because it will dry it out and make it look bad. I usually apply that with a damp rag, a scrubbing brush, or whatever I have in the garage that works for what I'm doing. Anything black plastic under the hood gets the same Black Magic Detail Spray I used on the interior, and my chrome cold air intake tube usually gets a treatment of Mothers Chrome Polish (not pictured... also used on chrome/stainless steel exhaust tips).
The undercarriage (whatever's within reach without jacking up the car) aka underneath the side skirts, the bumpers, the gas tank in the back, inner fenderwells, etc) I rinse out the bucket I use on the wheels and fill it up with more soap and water, then I hose down everything I want to clean and start scrubbing with an old rag until I get it clean enough for my liking. I rinse it all off really good, and let it drip dry by itself.
Tires get tire shine. The one I have pictured I got for free from my buddy Marc, he had a bunch of it, and I love how it goes on. Previously to this I was using Eagle 1 tire dressing that you applied with a foam applicator, and that worked well too.
After this is paint treatment. First I'll talk about what method I used on my old car (claybar then wax)... and then I'll get more in-depth with the multi-step process I'm using on my new car.
To apply the claybar, it's a lot easier than it looks... you just get the bar of clay out of the box, and the detail spray, and you spray the paint with the detail spray. Then you just rub the claybar over the paint until it's smooth. On my new car this took FOREVER because the previous owner must have never done it. This process will remove contaminents in the paint that the naked eye cannot see. Stuff left over from bird ****, road spray, things like that will be taken off... and the claybar will show it. When the clay starts to look dirty, just fold it over until it looks clean again.. it's a lot like Play-Doh. This process is time consuming and will take a while, and do each part of the car in section. Spray, claybar, wipe off spray with a microfiber. When the paint gets to the point where you can rub the claybar (lubricated with the detail spray of course) without it sticking, you know you're done with that section.
After that I applied the Gold Class liquid wax. This is the easy part. Just rub it into the paint really good using small, circular motions with a foam applicator pad (comes with the wax)... and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. The way you can tell it's ready to removed is with the swipe method. Swipe an area with your finger. If the wax comes off easily and shows shiny paint underneath, it's ready to be removed.... if it smears, it needs more time.
Now for my new car, I used the 3 (or 4 I guess) step process I recently discovered from Meguiars Online forums. This takes FOREVER, and I started on Thursday afternoon, and got some more done yesterday afternoon... and i'm still not done.
What this involves is the products you see in the picture sitting next to the pony in my grille.
Step 1: Claybar
Step 2: Scratch X, Scratch X, and Scratch X (I'll explain later)
Step 3: Deep Crystal Polish
Step 4: Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax
Everything is applied by hand, and since I don't have the money to buy an orbital buffer, that's perfect for me. Don't even attempt to do the whole car in one sitting, or even one day. On thursday night I had already washed and dried the car, did the interior, trunk, engine bay, undercarriage, etc... so by the time I finished all that I did this process on the front bumper only.
Step 1 is the claybar, I already explained this above so it's no different. Just keep the clay lubricated with the detail spray and keep at it until the finish is smooth as a baby's ass.
Step 2 is Scratch X. This stuff works better than I could have imagined. It's like an $8 tube that is sold everywhere, and does a great job at removing small scratches and hiding a lot of deep swirl marks that result from years of paint abuse. This WILL NOT remove deep scratches, and the swirls are still going to show when light is hitting the paint directly (particularly on a very very sunny day, or at night when you shine a flashlight on the paint). But given normal light... the paint will look amazing. The downside is the application. To get the best results you need to apply it a good 2-3 times, depending on how bad the area is. You rub it in a small area (like a 1/4 of the hood, or half a fender) with an applicator pad and work it into the paint like hell. Rub rub rub until your arm needs a break. Then wipe it off with a microfiber, and repeat... like twice... in that same area.
Step 3 is the Paint Polish. This is a little easier since you only have to go over the areas one time, and it applys a lot like wax, but it's a little thicker. Just apply it, and rub it in really well, and wipe it off with a microfiber. Don't let it dry on the paint, it only makes it harder to remove and it doesn't make it any more shiny by doing so.
Step 4 is the carnuaba wax. This is just normal wax. Apply with an applicator pad, let it dry for 10-15 minutes.... do the swipe method to make sure it's done, and then wipe off with a microfiber.
Now like I said, that 3-4 step process takes forever... so I'd suggest doing the roof and pillars one day, the hood and front bumper another day, the fenders and doors another day, the quarter panels another day, and the trunk/spoiler and rear bumper another day.
Time consuming? Yes. Worth it? Definitley. Could you get better results in less time using a machine and/or more expensive detailing products? Of course.... but this is how to make your car look pretty freaking nice using products that are readily available, fairly cheap, and that you apply yourself by hand. To me I enjoy getting the results and explaining to people that, no, that's not new paint.
And holy **** I just wrote a book... I should get a mod to sticky this post for future detailing questions haha.
Hope that helps!!
And for the hell of it, here's my car after doing all of the above. Just took these pictures yesterday and since it was getting dark a few came out slightly blurred. Also I had to use flash on the interior picture and it makes my panels look like different colors, but they all match, I swear! The hood, front bumper, and front fenders have gotten the 4step process already, and the rest of the car has been clayed and waxed a few weeks ago (when I get the time I will be doing the rest of the car with the 4step process of course).
I'll be taking better pictures once I finish the rest of the car.
FEW NEW UPDATES:
Just had a few new experiences, tried a few new products, and wanted to share:
This is not a how-to on professionally detailing your car and make it look new again. Everything here is done by hand, applied by hand, and everything can be purchased relatively cheaply at Walmart, or any automotive store (AutoZone, etc).
For the initial wash I'd suggest Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo (it comes in a large jug, and the liquid is gold)... and I use a soft mitt for the washing. I'm not going to explain the washing process because I feel it's pretty self explanatory.
EDIT: Waffles has been kind enough to explain the proper way to wash your car, so I figured it would be good to add it here:
To dry, use an absorber, it's in the picture on the top left. Rinse it off before you use it, and ring out the water... now it's ready to use. Run it over the paint fairly gently, starting at the top of the car and working your way around and down. As it gets filled with water ring it out and keep going.
For the interior, I use Black Magic Interior Detail spray, also in the picture... I apply it with a microfiber cloth and spray a small amount onto the cloth and rub it in before I apply it to the doors, dash, and anything black plastic. A little goes a long way with that stuff, and if you use a lot it will leave the surface greasy and I hate that. I might try something different once I run out of it.
For the leather on the door panels and the seats, I use Meguiars Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. I apply it with two separate microfibers. I spray it directly onto the seats, rub it in good with one microfiber towel, let it sit for a little while, and then rub off the excess with another microfiber towel.
For the carpet on the floor, I just use a vacuum I have at home to get it clean, if it ever gets stained I use carpet cleaner (not pictured, anything will work)... and if you ever get bubble-gum stuck into the carpet, use Goo-B-Gone. They sell it everywhere and comes in a small container, rub a little bit in the spot, then wipe it off. Usually works very easily.
For the trim on the dash (like the chrome aftermarket stuff), the head unit, etc... I don't really apply anything to it, just wiping it down with a dry towel will remove any fingerprints and dirt.
The windows... the tinted ones I use the Windex that I have in the picture, it's made specifically for tinted windows and does not contain ammonia, which will dry out the tint and make it turn purple over time. Make sure whatever you apply to the tinted glass doesn't have ammonia in it because of that. I apply that with a couple paper towels, then rub it off later with a microfiber to get rid of the smears. On the windshield (not tinted), I use normal Windex with the same method.
For the wheels and tires, I have another soft mitt that I use (different from the one I use on the paint), and a different bucket. I use the same car wash soap though... and I usually keep an old rag to use to wipe down inside the rim (behind the spokes) and the inner fender well. The outside of the rim gets the mitt and nice soap, works just like the paint. Also dry with an absorber. If you have painted rims, you can wax them like normal paint to make them shine better when they get old. For my Chrome cobra rims, when they start looking dull I'll give them a coat of Mothers Chrome Polish.
For the exterior black plastic trim, namely when it starts to fade, or you get wax dried on it... I use Mothers Back to Black (pictured). It applies just like wax, I use a foam applicator and rub a decent amount into the plastic, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off with a microfiber. It usually looks weird right after you do it (like filmy almost), but after the next time it rains or you wash the car you can really tell the difference, aka the trim comes out looking new.
If you're feeling ambitious and want to detail the engine, any engine degreaser will work on the metal stuff. In the picture on the top right you can see what I use, it's some cheap stuff I bought years ago that just happens to work really well. Just don't get it on paint or plastic parts because it will dry it out and make it look bad. I usually apply that with a damp rag, a scrubbing brush, or whatever I have in the garage that works for what I'm doing. Anything black plastic under the hood gets the same Black Magic Detail Spray I used on the interior, and my chrome cold air intake tube usually gets a treatment of Mothers Chrome Polish (not pictured... also used on chrome/stainless steel exhaust tips).
The undercarriage (whatever's within reach without jacking up the car) aka underneath the side skirts, the bumpers, the gas tank in the back, inner fenderwells, etc) I rinse out the bucket I use on the wheels and fill it up with more soap and water, then I hose down everything I want to clean and start scrubbing with an old rag until I get it clean enough for my liking. I rinse it all off really good, and let it drip dry by itself.
Tires get tire shine. The one I have pictured I got for free from my buddy Marc, he had a bunch of it, and I love how it goes on. Previously to this I was using Eagle 1 tire dressing that you applied with a foam applicator, and that worked well too.
After this is paint treatment. First I'll talk about what method I used on my old car (claybar then wax)... and then I'll get more in-depth with the multi-step process I'm using on my new car.
To apply the claybar, it's a lot easier than it looks... you just get the bar of clay out of the box, and the detail spray, and you spray the paint with the detail spray. Then you just rub the claybar over the paint until it's smooth. On my new car this took FOREVER because the previous owner must have never done it. This process will remove contaminents in the paint that the naked eye cannot see. Stuff left over from bird ****, road spray, things like that will be taken off... and the claybar will show it. When the clay starts to look dirty, just fold it over until it looks clean again.. it's a lot like Play-Doh. This process is time consuming and will take a while, and do each part of the car in section. Spray, claybar, wipe off spray with a microfiber. When the paint gets to the point where you can rub the claybar (lubricated with the detail spray of course) without it sticking, you know you're done with that section.
After that I applied the Gold Class liquid wax. This is the easy part. Just rub it into the paint really good using small, circular motions with a foam applicator pad (comes with the wax)... and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. The way you can tell it's ready to removed is with the swipe method. Swipe an area with your finger. If the wax comes off easily and shows shiny paint underneath, it's ready to be removed.... if it smears, it needs more time.
Now for my new car, I used the 3 (or 4 I guess) step process I recently discovered from Meguiars Online forums. This takes FOREVER, and I started on Thursday afternoon, and got some more done yesterday afternoon... and i'm still not done.
What this involves is the products you see in the picture sitting next to the pony in my grille.
Step 1: Claybar
Step 2: Scratch X, Scratch X, and Scratch X (I'll explain later)
Step 3: Deep Crystal Polish
Step 4: Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax
Everything is applied by hand, and since I don't have the money to buy an orbital buffer, that's perfect for me. Don't even attempt to do the whole car in one sitting, or even one day. On thursday night I had already washed and dried the car, did the interior, trunk, engine bay, undercarriage, etc... so by the time I finished all that I did this process on the front bumper only.
Step 1 is the claybar, I already explained this above so it's no different. Just keep the clay lubricated with the detail spray and keep at it until the finish is smooth as a baby's ass.
Step 2 is Scratch X. This stuff works better than I could have imagined. It's like an $8 tube that is sold everywhere, and does a great job at removing small scratches and hiding a lot of deep swirl marks that result from years of paint abuse. This WILL NOT remove deep scratches, and the swirls are still going to show when light is hitting the paint directly (particularly on a very very sunny day, or at night when you shine a flashlight on the paint). But given normal light... the paint will look amazing. The downside is the application. To get the best results you need to apply it a good 2-3 times, depending on how bad the area is. You rub it in a small area (like a 1/4 of the hood, or half a fender) with an applicator pad and work it into the paint like hell. Rub rub rub until your arm needs a break. Then wipe it off with a microfiber, and repeat... like twice... in that same area.
Step 3 is the Paint Polish. This is a little easier since you only have to go over the areas one time, and it applys a lot like wax, but it's a little thicker. Just apply it, and rub it in really well, and wipe it off with a microfiber. Don't let it dry on the paint, it only makes it harder to remove and it doesn't make it any more shiny by doing so.
Step 4 is the carnuaba wax. This is just normal wax. Apply with an applicator pad, let it dry for 10-15 minutes.... do the swipe method to make sure it's done, and then wipe off with a microfiber.
Now like I said, that 3-4 step process takes forever... so I'd suggest doing the roof and pillars one day, the hood and front bumper another day, the fenders and doors another day, the quarter panels another day, and the trunk/spoiler and rear bumper another day.
Time consuming? Yes. Worth it? Definitley. Could you get better results in less time using a machine and/or more expensive detailing products? Of course.... but this is how to make your car look pretty freaking nice using products that are readily available, fairly cheap, and that you apply yourself by hand. To me I enjoy getting the results and explaining to people that, no, that's not new paint.
And holy **** I just wrote a book... I should get a mod to sticky this post for future detailing questions haha.
Hope that helps!!
And for the hell of it, here's my car after doing all of the above. Just took these pictures yesterday and since it was getting dark a few came out slightly blurred. Also I had to use flash on the interior picture and it makes my panels look like different colors, but they all match, I swear! The hood, front bumper, and front fenders have gotten the 4step process already, and the rest of the car has been clayed and waxed a few weeks ago (when I get the time I will be doing the rest of the car with the 4step process of course).
I'll be taking better pictures once I finish the rest of the car.FEW NEW UPDATES:
Just had a few new experiences, tried a few new products, and wanted to share:
- Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash and Shampoo is amazing. Don't use any other soap, it's the best stuff I've ever used and it's cheap.
- Meguiars Gold Class Interior Detail Spray is equally amazing. I applied it by spraying it onto a microfiber a few times and wiping down the entire interior (only the plastics of course). It cleans the dust off everything and leaves a nice matte look to the plastics. Doesn't leave ANY grease behind at all, and just makes it look clean and new again without any stupid shine.
- Don't apply Scratch X by hand unless you've done it before and are confident. I did it on the hood, fenders, roof, and front bumper (like I mentioned above).... and it left swirl marks. Nothing bad that can't be corrected with a buffer or hidden with a fresh coat of wax, but it's enough to be noticeable when the sun is shining directly onto the car on a hot day. It bothers me a lot and I can't correct it without buying a buffer and doing it properly. Scratch X is a great product, going from other results I've seen... but applying by hand myself was not the greatest idea in the world.
- Meguiars "Hot Shine" tire shine gel applied with a foam applicator is my new favorite tire shine. Easy to apply and much like the interior spray, leaves the tires looking clean and matte, without any eye-catching gloss and greasiness.
- I stopped using products on my inside windows. Windex, various glass cleaners, etc... they all left streaks on my windows that made it hard to see out of when the sun was rising in the morning, and at night when headlights were pointed in my direction. I found this 2pack of cloths at the local AutoZone. They were $2.99 and made of polyester and some other material. It doesn't have a name-brand, but it says they are for cleaning windows without chemicals. So I bought them, $3, why not? And they are going to be what I use from now on. Not really sure how or why they work, but they do. Just fold 'em up and wipe your windows down, it's best to do this when there's light outside on the windows so you can see where they are dirty and where they aren't. This way leaves no streaking, and leaves the windows clean. Worth looking into if you have the same issues I did with the streaking.
your car looks nice. garage...
