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Rear Lower Control Arm Bolt Seized - what's next?

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by pixapusho, Oct 8, 2017.

  1. pixapusho

    pixapusho Member

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    Hey all,
    Lowering the Mustang. Rear lower control arm bolt is seized in the bushing where the LCA bolts up to the axle. After hours, I managed to cut each side of the bolt and finally pry it to drop the LCA. I tried to remove the LCA where it bolts to the frame and it is also seized, so I don't think replacing the LCA is an option. No room to grind on the frame side. I left that bolt alone.

    I have the LCA bushing soaking in a pan full of transmission fluid hoping it will free up. Anybody have a similar experience? When I say 'seize', I mean I finally broke the bolt loose but it is seized in the bushing sleeve.

    I ordered an air hammer to see if I can free the broken bolt from inside of the bushing.

    What a mess. Car is on blocks for the rest of the week, and I took this as an opportunity to rebuild the front end. Front end came apart in about 1 hour, I have spent 6-7 hours on the rear.
     
  2. pixapusho

    pixapusho Member

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    Can of worms. Had to cut tie rod end off. Isolator seized to lower control arm in the front. Cant order one LCA bushing in the rear. I bought a poly set to uee one bushing. Found out you can heat and remove the bushing so i will do that. Front Bilstein springs wont quite go in, so i ordered MMT 8 perch tool for the front control arm to assist with install. Decided to go with moog tie rod ends and new sway bar end links, and poly sway bar bushings.

    At least I should be squeak free when Im done. Think my bad sway bar bushings and rusted isolator caused a rather annoying squeak.

    Gonna run used isolators in front, skipped the rear as my $100 budget turned into 350 over the weekend. Oops.

    Hope she has better stance when Im done. That stock fender gap was killing me. Unfortunately my DSM is still down so I have to drive the old flareside ford to work all week. This project snowballed!
     

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  3. Serpent

    Serpent Member

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    wow, what a nightmare!!! hope you can get everything loose. I always spray everything ahead of time with pb blaster. helps, but sometimes, heat is the only answer.

    hope that eliminates your squeak.

    on my son's 04 v6, I replaced everything up front except for the steering rack....new lower control arms with ball joints, new inner and outer tie rod ends, new front struts, new sway bar end links and new sway bar bushings and the squeak we had in the beginning is still there. now thinking it must be a body part....hood, fenders, something. he's at college and so haven't been able to track it down.
     
  4. pixapusho

    pixapusho Member

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    What a pain ! Was there a noticeable difference after rebuilding the front end at least ? I have 252k on the body and it was completely stock. Im due for struts I'm sure. Currently waiting for my parts and tools to show up. The Bilstein springs are no longer made and I'm not sure how much the drop is.
     
  5. Stewart P

    Stewart P New Member

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    Your this far. Just replace all the bushings with poly. You will love it after. They are a bit of a struggle to get in and freezing them overnight will help but the difference is night and day in you ride. The car will grab so well on corners. Before you pull the bushings on the rear end make sure you measure for center so the control arms line back up properly. That one I learned the hard way on.
     
  6. pixapusho

    pixapusho Member

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    I got out the rear lca bushing with heat and an air hammer. I pushed the new poly in. MMT8 perch tool made quick work of installing the front springs. New tie rod ends, poly swar bar bushings and end links installed. Didnt plan on doing this much, but now I am going to order struts and call it good. Well, it will be GREAT compared to the old suspension components. The old tie rod ends had no grease in either one of them. That front wheel gap was bothering me. Still cant identify these Bilstein springs.

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