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Removing top bellhousing bolts

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by SpetsACDC, Jun 29, 2017.

  1. SpetsACDC

    SpetsACDC Active Member

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    Hi,
    10 years ago, I changed the clutch on my mustang. I'm planning to do it again soon, and I really hope to get it done in a single weekend. I remember that the top bellhousing bolts were really hard to get to last time. I'd like to buy tools ahead of time that will help removing them. I have a U-joint socket and some extensions.

    However, I've read that a flex socket works better than the U-join adapter. Does anyone know the size flex socket that works for a 99 3.8 mustang?

    This thread says 13mm, but I think it's for 4.6l cars: I can't remove the top transmission bolt, please help! - Ford Mustang Forum
    "What I have used is a 13mm "flex" socket and two LONG extensions. Use long extensions instead of multiple short ones tied together (less flop).

    The flex socket works better than a u-joint because it takes up less space and will set straight on the bolt without walking off."

    Thanks!
     
  2. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    Bell housing to block bolts are 13mm, and if you are working on the T-5, the transmission to bell bolts are 15mm. You could remove the 4 trans to bell bolts, and remove the transmission that way. It will make getting to the upper bell to block bolts easier. I use a 13mm with a swivel, and a few different extensions. With the proper motivation you could have the transmission out in about an hour and a 1/2 or less.
     
  3. pixapusho

    pixapusho Member

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    Agree with douglass. I leave bell housing on the block and yank the transmission (one of those bolts will require several 6" extensions and a swivel, at least for me it did. Think passenger side.) I find the removal is easy, but I always have quite a time installing the transmission. Had to have the clutch pushed in, a series of calculated wiggling, and a helper to pull transmission toward front and raise/lower/shimmy tailshaft. Careful not to hit the clutch before your input shaft is close to being installed, I save that trick for last.
     
  4. SpetsACDC

    SpetsACDC Active Member

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    Thanks for the info! It took me 2 full days, but I have everything out except the pilot bearing.

    Now, I'm on the fence about whether I should replace my transmission's bearing retainer sleeve. I think it's fine, but I'd appreciate a 2nd opinion. I can feel with my fingernail a very small groove between the worn (silver) and non-worn (grey) surfaces. My new throwout bearing slides easily on it. (My car is a 99' w/ 130k miles).
    [​IMG]

    I also think it'd be good to replace the top two bellhousing bolts. The heads are starting to round. I guess I'll give the local ford dealership a call; the only replacement I see online is $35 and includes more bolts than I need. I'm guessing it's not a good idea to match the bolt size from a hardware store...
     
  5. SixPackSurprise

    SixPackSurprise My lil Turd

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    as long as they are high grade (10) bolts, you can get them from hardware store. just make sure they're the same thread pitch, length, etc... 2 days to get it out?! damn, were you drinking and partying the process? whole clutch job, should take a day if you're doing it at home in the driveway, 3/5hrs in you're in a well equiped shop and know what you're doing. I don't mean to bash... But anyway, what was it that gave you a hard time, there's plenty of guys on here who could give you some pointers to make life easier for you.
     
  6. Phil II

    Phil II Cone Destroyer Staff Member

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    Metric class 8.8 or 10.9 flange head bolts would be a good substitute for the oem bellhousing bolts.