Single turbo build

Might as well start a thread for this as well since its different from the engine swap
First ever turbo build
Excited to have a Frankenstein type set up..

Stock 3.8 w/ t5

Things i have so far..
turbo
T4 flange
Maf
Afr sensor
Fuel pressure guage

Things i still need to get...
E85 compatible injectors
Wastegate
Bov
F150 fuel rail
100 micron fuel filter
Fuel regulator
Steel braided lines
A/n fittings
Fuel pump
Turbo blanket
V band connections
Oil pressure guage
Exhaust gas temperature guage
Intake temperature guage
Mechanical boost guage
Device to datalog


I figure i would knock them down one by one and use this thread as a checklist and a place to store and collect my thoughts..

 

Hey man thanks for chiming in! I love your work! I know u have been doing things for a long time and im honored that ur taking the time out to consult me with this build..

Its better to do it all at once and looking back at it i know i will see it how u do now and i cant wait for that day..

That being said however im afraid that if i take on anymore load this ship might tip over lol
Its hard enough to bucket out the water im taking in as it is lol
Thank god i havent hit a storm lol

Any way yea man alot ahead of me i know im still just spoon feeding soft food at this point but i plan on seeing this through so well get there together i hope just bare with me as i evolve before ur eyes lol

1 100% beast mode all day street car
2 no need to pass emmisions. Miami sea breeze no demand for it at this point
3 hp goals with this set up (stock) 350 400
4 i have access to steel welding (mufgler shop) and friends or places im sure i will find also i did some stick welding wen i was a pile driver beads were really good so im planning on diving really deep in that and getting a nice high amp welder
5im mounting turbo where battery goes i was planning on welding supports to the chassis with softish rubber bushings and flex pipes ball joints and couplings.. the intake will be piped to the fender or the bumper in its own isolation chamber so to speak to seperate from engine bay heat area between intercooler and throttle body is completely open to try to incorporate the same isolation technique there as well..
6 i dont see where i will need to move any a/c lines from where im standing care to enlighten
7 i have a procharger single core intercooler i plan to use i just payed like 500 bucks on the ba5000!? lol wat would u suggest instead for my low hp build ill save the sct for later i guess...
8i hav a 65 but throttle cable is wrong might look into the 70 for sure
9yea definitely gonna need better brakes kinda thinking hydraboost..
10 im replacing the whole fuel system didnt think i would need to upgrade the wireing ..i think ur reffering to like a kbboostapump as an option.. can u clarify
Great point on needing more for less cylinders never looked at it like that before thank you!
11lol yea if it can hold up for the dyno pulls im not gonna be doing any gear slamming so well see how long i can baby it...

 

Yea i wanna do a return style set up that hat looks so ideal how perfect no need for any retro fitting! Fantastic i will be purchasing that next thank you for doing that footwork for me excellent!

..u dont really feel a sump or some way to stop sloshing is necessary?

 

Lol yea it would be that simple lol.... makes sense to me..

It will be not hard at all to fabricate a bracket to support the turbo from the engine block i will do it this way instead and only use the flex pipe for the down pipe if i decide to keep my exhaust even though im against it at this point ..i will drive the car with a dump out the side of the bumper until it becomes a problem then i will install the exhaust and watch my gauges and decide then if any horsepower loss or heat rises was worth the less smell and less noise and arguably better asthetics..

I still have my bbk cai maybe ill look into incorporating that might actually be a pretty good idea can u post a pic of ur maf setup wen u get a chance

 

Wow thanks man... yea i read about u talking about making ur stock level sensor work or the filter because the other one broke maybe it was someone else..
Yes iv always wanted a fuel pump switch after seeing them in nascar .. ahh growing up in a nascar obsessed family...
Named me kyle after kyle petty lol go figure...
...and they wonder why i have engines all over the place lol

Anyway yea excellent ill take ur advice on the 100 dollar cobra sensor and yea good tip on t'ing off the battery once its in the trunk i will be doing that as well

Regarding the wiring info i read u explaining this in another thread as well this exactly how i will do it so i will definently come back to this info wen im ready to cross that bridge and u will be hearing my inquiries if i run into complications lol

I think the 5 ib boost switch is better than the throttle because i might hit 5 ibs but not be passed 7/8 and could possibly run lean? or should i be looking at it the other way around...

Edit the other way around: the other way around meaning i should have the throttle switch because if i hav boost switch i can be at low throttle hit 5 pounds and run rich

 

Also say im not gonna be working on the fuel system and i want the key to turn on the pump it would be ok to just leave the switch on wen i turn off the car? because if i wired it like u said the key will cut power... just curious..

 

Any way i decided im going to use my exaust system after all but i want to have a 4 inch dump on a valve that i will have open at a little less than half throttle

I have the standard 2.5 exhaust that starts where the headers used to end... well since the headers will now be facing forward i will have plenty room to work with

I was looking into a 2 to 1 two 2.5" into one 4" collector unfourtunately the only ones i could find all reduced to 3" before they split into two 2.5"



Now Im no mathematician.. but id say that is no good that is the equivalent of two 1.5" so...

I sent a text to the guy who i bought the t4 flange from on ebay and asked if he was up to the task to weld me a true to its name two 2.5" into one 4" exhaust collector or merge pipe

That was like 2 hours ago so now we will see wat happens with him

Other wise my plan is to get a 4 into 1 four 2.5" into one 4" collector then use a common 2 to 1 2.5" merge pipe to split the exhaust into two to meet where my original exhaust begins





I have to admit that its gonna look pretty cool im going to have to get some pics its a shame to have it hidden under the car

Edit: come to think about it maybe i wont have too. maybe ill start it as soon as it exits the turbo by the belt just because..

But also it might be beneficial to split early because its easier to snake 2 2.5" past a stock kmember then 1 4"

Edited typo

 

Sweet nice now i can already have the bends worked out to make it easier on the muffler shop guy which is good because this is a huge job for him compared to the cat backs that he does all day.. it will save me money as well.. im thinking a two 45* instead of those sharp 90*



Forgot to show the y pipe 4" dump before the 2.5" pipes start..

 

Actually the one above turned out to be a 2.5 and not the 4" that they put in the title..
The only true 4" that i can find that has the pipes all connected just need a quick weld is this one..



But i dont feel very confident with this it seems sketchy...

So can do a two seperate 2.5 y pipe electric cut out exits like this



Or just use 2 of the pypes brand posted above on one power switch.. prolli go this way to have a 2.5 exit behind front tire pointing back at a 45* angle of side of car and slightly at the ground so i clean the streets when im rippin it haha

Or make a mega phone exit that will actually create a vacuum! With this..


Oh yea baby!

 

I got the turbo the flange and now the copper divided gasket but still no hardware does arp make these ..with the temperatures this sees i dont want to make the mistake and buy cheap hardware