Single turbo build

[Spdricer]

FINALLLYYYYYY!! the turbo build has actually begun!!! Almost a year later! Lol

So far what i have done thanks to the help of 6shooter

Drilled a 1 and a half inch (more or less) hole in the bottom area of the front of the passenger shock tower so i can mount my regulator on the front of the shock tower and run my return line back to the tank outside of the engine bay starting from inside the passenger front wheel well on to the back of the car..

The regulator will go here for now because its in a place in the engine bay that is relatively free space, now that the bulky stock air box is not there..
Also its easily accessible and more or less a straight shot to the rails with not too many sharp bends that will lead to premature fuel heat up hot fuel equals preignition and that is not desired..

Furthermore yesterday we also got started on installing the fuel rails this involved removing intake, steel coolant pipe and unplugging injector plugs then removing fuel rails.. cleaning the injectors with brake cleaner really good..
I also got a microfiber towel and put it on the end of a screw driver sprayed it with brake cleaner to wet it with a healthy dose of break cleaner so the dirt sticks to the towel and dosent fall in the combustion chamber and spun it in the holes where the injectors go to be sure that no dirt would get inbetween the o rings and the hole i repeated this process each time with a clean area of the towel until the towel came up clean and the hole was clean enough to eat on or do heart surgery on.. that clean lol

Then i sprayed the already super clean O ring part of the injector with antiseize and they popped right in.. same thing when i slid the rails over the injectors

Then i installed the steel braided line that connects the two rails by the firewall by putting about 4 or 5 wraps of teflon thread sealant tape in the direction of the threads so it dosent bunch up when i tighten the fitting and last but not least i sprayed on top of the tape the antiseize to insure no binding and THEN i tightened the crap out of it to make sure theres no leaks..

So far thats as far as we got
next weekend will be finishing up the steel braided lines and the intake basically everything fuel related thats under the hood

After that well move under the car to hang supply and return lines and then behind the car to get started on the tank and wiring for the pumps

I hav no service here so ill upload the photos i hav when i get the chance

 

[Spdricer]

So i just learned from a "summit racing equipment quick flix" you tube video

The teflon tape is known to come off and clog the fuel system so first thing on the agenda this weekend is the take off the tape that i used and put a small amount on the threads of some fuel resistant gasket maker i saw in the auto parts store
Thank you summit quick flicks

 

[mgredding04]

I too am planning to beef my 3.8 with a turbo in April iv been trying to build up my car since last June im still feeling im not getting what i should be getting with what i have done to it.. does anyone know what i could do with the mods i have done to my 99.New trans and newer motor with lot less miles as my old one i have CAI , 65mm throttle body and throttel body spacer msd coil pack SCT x4 tuner i just got the 4.10 gears im running duel exhaust system and im running 100 shot of Nitrous

 

[Spdricer]

Moderator can you delete this crap from my page plz

 

[6 Shooter]

Best thing you can use on braided steel hose connections is Vasoline or white lithium grease. Just want to lube the threads so that they do not gall up. Those fittings will seal with up to 3000 psi by just tightening with two wrenches . The fittings will not leak unless the threads are messed up. So, lube them and screw them together till hand tight, then use a pair of wrenches to tighten further.

 

[Spdricer]

Roger that! will do! Thank you!

 

[JTsStang]

Teflon paste is what I use on my an lines

 

[Spdricer]

So the complete tank with pumps and wiring is in.

The 15 foot steel braided hose and the rubber return hose is run along the car following the original fuel line route

I went above some supports and the fuel line is in danger of getting frayed from vibrations in some areas once the car is in active duty
My plan is to cut a sleeve out of alluminum and slide it in between the hose and danger zone and zip tie both sides tight so it wont slide later..
Repeat this system in every danger zone the hose might come in contact with in the future..

Honestly im just waiting for a couple more fittings to come in the mail from summit otherwise i would have had all the plumbing in already..

Next phil is explaining the wiring layout with no pictures over an email and i did a quick overview of the instructions and it all looks like chinese jibber jabber at this point...
But so hav his instructions from the past and little by little as i dive into it the instructions start making sense and things start comming together before my eyes and im like Hey! Check that out! We did it! Lol

Little engine that could
Slow n steady wins the race
Stay tuned for some test results!

 

[Spdricer]

Alright! Got all the steel braided hoses in and tightened injectors in electrical connectors in (not tested) fuel rail on regulator mounted and plumbed installed the intake again with the phenolic spacer gasket and copper gasket maker. Original oem fuel rail pressure sensor was installed thanks to the retrofit 6shooter did to my tma andy fuel rails
I finally took off my egr system but i left the bracket so i can put it back on if i need to ..but i will prolli never need too..
Still i gotta make a plate to block the hoke and 2 other holes now on the intake need to be blocked the old crank case ventilation tube is one.. and the vacuum lines for the egr..
Ill block them temporarily to idle the car but eventually i will have to seal it up permanently not sure how ill do it.. jb weld or something 2 part lol
Went along supply and return lines and put protection where it was in danger of getting frayed then ziptied it real tight every foot or so..
I put those little trap doors with self tapping screws so i made sure that they werent going to pierce the top of the tank all is good now i put rubber some left over rubber as a spacer as well as just bent the metal with a crow bar took me all of 5 seconds and now im happy with it..

So today wen i get off work im going to attempt to wire the pumps fill it with enough premium fuel to get picked up by the pumps but not too much that if i have to drop the tank it wont be even more of a hassle because of the weight of all the fuel and the difficulty to drain it..
If i was messing with the tank i would add a drain plug but for now i can say its as good as im gonna get it for now unless a problem arises at this point im happy with that as well

So i was happy with the mechanical aspect of the fuel system around 11:30 last night

Next is the wiring which is probably best done at in the day time however im big on lighting and having plenty of it
..so i hav no excuse except for i was tired working on this thing is so exhausting ..and its so weird to me because im doing any labor? Im just turning a wrench..
Maybe its holding the body in a funky position for an extended period of time i donno..
But ill work a full day and not feel near as tired at the end of the day like how exhausted i feel when i did alot of work on the stang..
Later today wire up the pumps and put fuel and test the system everything is installed only thing left is to wire it up and fire it up

Its hard to believe its real it almost feels like a dream i keep having to convince myself in my mind that those parts that were sitting in my drawer for almost a year are actually installed on the car and finished i keep feeling like ima wake up and its gonna be back to normal again

 

[Spdricer]

Woohooo got the return fuel system in with no leaks!!

Phil really made it easier for me i gotta giv him his credit as usual lol

Something about wiring i guess because i dont have much experience and im afraid of the unknown but yea wiring brings me down.. atleast before this! this helped!!
..anyway my point is ..soon i hope wiring will no longer scare me and make me sad ..but excite me! like the rest if the build! such a challenge at first.. then ...the only challenge is making it as artful! and precise and pure! to function and form! as aesthetically pleasing as possible...

We litterally ended at dusk i didnt even get to torque down the intake because i wanted to let the gasket maker set first while it was a little more then finger tight ..

But the fuel system ecerything that we installed is finally checking out

It leaked under the fuel rail the first time we tested it apparently the injector was in at an angle and it pinched and ripped the o ring

No big deal i still had the injectors in the parts car badda bing badda boom got it back in this time no leaks ...so far
Ill be sniffin around later for them

Next thing i have to do is load the tune 6shooter sent me with the changes needed to switch from returnless to return style fuel.system

Then with the vacuum hose disconnected set pressure at 45 psi idling

 

[Spdricer]

So i tried to start it but it wouldnt start it dosent have spark the theft light is staying solid as the starter turns over
Pandoras box has just been opened..

 

[JTsStang]

pats!

 

[Spdricer]

pats!

Yes thank you. but now after some research im finding out the pats system can trigger this "solid light wen cranking condition" caused by many different ways..

One guy said it was a bad battery connection which my battery died while we were working on it and i was starting it getting a jump from another car..
So i might just get a new battery to eliminate that.. but thats prolli not the problem so ill put that idea on the back burner...

Then i read in some instances the key will just out of the blue un program itself somehow and if the chip in the key doesnt match the reciever in the ignition it creates this same symptom of a solid theft light while cranking

Also i have an after market alarm that i thought was disabled.. but it does have a valet button that i might have pressed so im gonna try pressing that lol ima laugh if its that...

Also the light might be utilized by ford to signify that the clutch isnt being depressed while cranking in neutral
...which i did the other night because im pretty sure i never connected that clutch position sensor when i did the engine swap
..so i will try to press the clutch first lol

In my defense it was night time i didnt expect any problems honestly i figured it was gonna be if anything a quick remote tuning session with 6shooter..

So when this happened i just said ahh screw it and went home lol
...but now im getting anxious i wanna continue the build again lol

Anyway i will let you guys know how it goes as i ride the mustang train

 

[Spdricer]

So tried clutch petal pushed in valet button pushed still no start i guess next thing i want to try is reprogramming the key at the dealership which will involve buying (or renting but im just gonna buy)
A low boy car trailer with a good winch and long ramps so i can get my lowered car up on the trailer even if it cant start or god forbid cant roll.. (accident)

So that being said.. i would not be surprised at all if that dosent fix the problem..

I think i did something stupid and created a short somewhere if the key reprogamming dosent work then i will go short hunting with the volt meter following the current or lack there of..

Worst comes to worst ill go with a haltech or megasquirt and be done with it

Incorporate an aftermarket alarm into the aftermarket ecu

 

[Spdricer]

So ive been reading that the pats module is in the column and can have problems from tilting the steering wheel over the years..
I took apart this column when i was putting in the black interior
I didnt really think to focus to much here but maybe i left something unplugged here or something gonna check that later today..

 

[Spdricer]

I found the "PATS Disable Switch" in the < scalar section under < system switches in the = tune view box happening when i first load the tune using my advantage 3 software on my laptop at home with the dongle installed (usb sct provides when u purchase the software like a key) i changed it to a valu of one (disables the antitheft system..

This will rule out whether its actually pats or does ford use the theft light as an indicator for other issues

 

[6 Shooter]

Check your email.

 

[Spdricer]

Phil ive been waiting patiently for an email from you but i dont see it i just checked again in all mail and still no mail from phil i figured you left me to figure it out on my own..
I knew i the end it was better this way haha!

 

[6 Shooter]

Just resent.

 

[Spdricer]

I tried the pats off tune but the car still wont start..

Does exactly the same thing except now instead of the tgeft light being solid ..now its just blinking really fast..

Gonna buy a used car trailer and trailer it to the dealership

Then have them reprogram the keys

If that dosent work then i will start chasing shorts..

Im sure its something stupid that i forgot..

The moral of the story here is to keep it one job at a time finish the small job and then test it make sure everything in good with what i just changed THEN change something else...
Takes away the guessing..
I know im gonna get it its just gonna take me more time because im still a rookie...