Sixpackstang's Official Split Port Swap Post

sixpackstang

New Member
RED94 said:
I can't remember where on this post I read it, but it was stated that to make the necessary changes to the CPS all I had to do is remove the top plastic (held on with 2 nuts) electical connectors & swap them. The trouble is the 2000 module is much smaller in dia. & thus bolt pattern is narrower than the 94, so can I just swap the whole unit, (shaft & all).or are they different somewhere on down the shaft into the housing? What do I have to do? Its the last thing on my list before I can start the engine? :confused:

Well I'm not sure I can help you here. I didn't change cams or anything when I did my swap. I'm assuming you are if you are messing with the CPS, but my question is why are you changing the CPS. (I'm assuming you mean the Cam Position Sensor and not the Crank Position Sensor?) I don't think it's necessary to change either of them to 99+ equipment at any point in a split port swap? Are you trying to swap in an entire 99+ engine?
 

RED94

New Member
sixpackstang said:
Well I'm not sure I can help you here. I didn't change cams or anything when I did my swap. I'm assuming you are if you are messing with the CPS, but my question is why are you changing the CPS. (I'm assuming you mean the Cam Position Sensor and not the Crank Position Sensor?) I don't think it's necessary to change either of them to 99+ equipment at any point in a split port swap? Are you trying to swap in an entire 99+ engine?
Yes I'm putting a 2000 engine in my 94. The 94 CPS
which is bigger in dia. has 4 electrical contacts whereas the 2000 only has 2 , so I have to swap them so the 94 wiring harness will plug in. The only trouble is as I mentioned is that both top sections are attached with 2 different bolt patterns. Help!
 

sixpackstang

New Member
RED94 said:
Yes I'm putting a 2000 engine in my 94. The 94 CPS
which is bigger in dia. has 4 electrical contacts whereas the 2000 only has 2 , so I have to swap them so the 94 wiring harness will plug in. The only trouble is as I mentioned is that both top sections are attached with 2 different bolt patterns. Help!
Is there any way you could just find the 2000 plug from the wiring harness and just splice that into your wires? That would be a lot easier than actually swapping the CPS.
 

RED94

New Member
sixpackstang said:
Is there any way you could just find the 2000 plug from the wiring harness and just splice that into your wires? That would be a lot easier than actually swapping the CPS.
I have the 2000 wiring harness as well but I need to know if it is possible to mate the 4 wires from the94 to the 2000 2 wire plug in? Can 2 sets be soldered together to become compatible with the 2000 two contact plug in on top of the CPS?
 

V6mustang94

Well-Known Member
How much do you thinka ford dealership would charge you if you took thier car to them and told them to make it a split port?

P.S. sticky this
 

sixpackstang

New Member
V6mustang94 said:
How much do you thinka ford dealership would charge you if you took thier car to them and told them to make it a split port?

P.S. sticky this

Probably more than your car is worth. They wanted over $4000 to replace my engine with the same engine. I can't imagine what they would want for a custom swap, and I doubt they would even do it.
 

RED94

New Member
sixpackstang said:
This is a very commonly asked question, so I did a write up with everything I could think of to help someone considering or doing a split port swap. I hope the mods will sticky this, it would help a lot of people out... :thumbup:

What are the differences between single port and split port?

To start we will discuss the differences between the 3.8 v6 motors. The 94-98 v6's are equipped with single port heads, lower intake, and upper intake; these have one intake runner per cylinder. On the 99-04 v6's, Ford switched to a split port design, which has two runners per cylinder.

From the factory, the split port design gave the v6 an additional 40hp, so some people with 94-98's like to swap their singleport heads and intakes for the split port. Doing this is a very custom setup, and there are some modifications that will need to be made. I will discuss these later.

What parts are needed for a split port swap?

Here is to the best of my knowledge a complete list of parts needed for a split port swap:

heres the parts list:
-97+ f-150 V6 heads or 99+ mustang v6 heads (including valves/springs)
-97+ f-150 v6 lower intake, or 99+ v6 mustang lower intake *
-99+ mustang v6 upper intake **
-99+ mustang EGR tube and valve (f-150 tube will work)
-99+ Throttle Body
-TPS sensor for TB (1-CX-1488 from Ford) if not already on TB
-Throttle cable from 99+ mustang v6
-Modified fuel rail that has a universal fuel pressure regulator, and a return line. (available from SteveC) ***
-Accelerator Bracket (F4SZ-9728-B) if not already included on upper intake
-99+ mustang v6 coil pack and wires (your stock coil pack will work too)
-99+ mustang intake tube, or any 99+ mustang CAI kit
-99+ mustang cooling hoses (including the ones going to the heater core) and pipes. You can also make your own lines, by using plumbing elbows,hoses and clamps, and fab it up yourself. (Definately get these if you can.)
-16 a.w.g automotive electrical wire
-teflon tape, pipe sealant, RTV
-99+ head bolts/studs
-head gaskets (I recommend 99+ mustang gaskets)
-99+ upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
-99+TB gasket
-94-98 IAC gasket
-94-98 valve cover gaskets(reuse the 94-98 valve covers, valve cover gaskets can be reused if removed carefully)
-94-98 exhaust header/manifold gaskets
-you can reuse the 94-98 headers ****
-use the 94-98 IAC since the 99+ IAC has a different connector (Edit: I found that the IAC I used from a 99 mustang had the SAME connector. I am not sure about other years or F150's/windstarts, but the 99 IAC will work and I recommend using it for a cleaner looking install.)
-rad fluid, oil, filter, new spark plugs
-gasket remover, thinner to prep parts before applying new gaskets

* There are 3 different types of lower intakes you could use; these would be the 97+ F150 lower, the 99-00 lower, and the 01-04 lower. Each has its ups and downs, but I would recommend going with a 99-00 lower. Here are the differences:
The F150 and 01-04 lowers have IMRC's in the lower intake which will need to be removed, and the holes JB welded shut since the 94-98 ECU's don't have the ability to control these. The 99-00 lowers don't have these, and therefor you will have no modding to do.
The 94-98 lowers have 2 water temp sensors that go into the lower intake. The F150 lower also has 2 locations for these sensors on the lower, no problem there. The 99-04 lowers only have one water temp sensor and will need to be modified to work. You can do this by drilling/tapping a hole for another sensor in the lower before it's put on. There is a good spot for doing this and I will try to get pics later. Any machine shop could do this, and others have had it done for $5-10.
If you use an F150 lower, you will need to run custom cooling hoses. The F150 hoses won't work, and the 99-04 mustang cooling hoses won't work with the F150 lower. If you are using the 99-04 lower, the cooling hoses will fit and work fine.
My personal opinion would be to use a 99-00 lower, but all will work with some modification.
**There is a slight difference between the 99-00 upper intake and the 01-04 upper intake. The 99-00 upper has 4 holes for the coil pack to be mounted, vs. only 3 on the 01-04. If you can get the 99-00 upper it will be easier to mount your stock coil pack.
***The 94-98 mustangs use a return style fuel system, and the 99-04's use a returnless style. Therefor the 99+ fuel rail will need to be modified with a return fuel line. As noted above, SteveC on this board is again offering to make custom fuel rails for split port swaps.
****You can reuse the 94-98 headers, but you may run into trouble with hooking up the egr tube. I believe it mounts into a different location on the 99+ exhaust manifold and may not fit. You would need to have this customized to fit, or to use the 99+ exhaust manifolds/gaskets. I am not certain as I deleted the egr when I did my swap.

How difficult is it to do a split port swap?

A good bit of mechanical ability is needed to do this. If you don't usually work on your own car, this is not a good place to start learning. On a difficulty level of 1-10, I would rate this about a 6.5. You will be going pretty deep into your engine, and because it is a custom setup it can be tricky. From start to stop, this project took me about 3 full days of working (by myself though, extra hands would've helped at many points) plus driving to get odds and ends I didn't account for.

You will need basic tools such as metric and standard socket sets, swivel joints, extensions, wrenches, screwdrivers, a torque wrench in ft/lbs, (also a smaller torque wrench in inch/lbs is helpful but not necessary), wire cutters, butt connectors for the wires or a soldering gun, and plenty of patience. You will also need special tools for removing the fuel lines from the stock fuel rail. (AutoZone should have these)

There is also a video made by V6Sprout from v6power.net that is a step by step guide to doing the split port swap. It is very helpful and I would recommend it to anyone doing the swap or even considering it. Watching the video could help you determine if you think you can do the swap yourself or not. With his permission, I am selling copies of the tape to anyone interested for $10 shipped. (I have lowered the price because the tape is losing quality when I make copies of it)

How much will a split port swap cost me?

This is just a quick list of what it cost me to do my swap. It may cost you more or less depending on where you get your parts. Places to look for parts? Try the for sale boards here or any other v6 site like v6power.net. Also ebay or a salvage yard might be useful.

-Heads, intakes, modified fuel rail, cooling pipes/hoses, most of the other small parts needed. I bought these for $500. A bulk of the cost here is in the custom fuel rail. I'm not sure what SteveC will be selling his for. Check ebay, junkyards, and the For Sale forums here and at v6power.net for these parts.
-Throttle body, sensors on TB, throttle cable. $50
-99+ cold air intake. $50 (you can avoid this cost by using the stock 99+ plastic intake)
-Gaskets, head bolts, plugs, wires. $200
-Oil, filter, antifreeze. $30 (you can reuse your antifreeze if its new/still good)

Grand total around $800 for the complete swap.

This is all the information I have right now on doing the split port swap, and hope this helps you out. If you have any questions feel free to contact me and I'll see if I can help you out.

Mods: I think this would be a good idea to sticky this info. I put countless hours of researching all this info. from different sites and it was difficult to find answers for a lot of the little questions I had about different parts. There are tons of people making posts about how to do a split port swap etc. and I think this could eliminate them and help encourage more people to try this.
COMPLETE ENGINE SWAP OF 99+ 3.8 INTO 94-98
For further info. re swapping complete engine into 94 to I think up to 98. see thread titled "2000 3.8 INTO 94.OXYGEN SENSORS DISCONNECTED-WHAT EFFECT?"
 

Silentst2000

New Member
sixpackstang said:
Well I'm not entirely sure on that...but look at it this way. How much more hp/tq did the 01+ mustangs have over the 99-00 that have no IMRC's? I think maybe 3/3 or something small like that. Is that worth all the headache to get them to work?
I think the IMRC provide a higher average horsepower and torque. To me it wouldn't make much sense for them to provide a higher peak number. It prob shifts the peaks down a couple hundred RPMs. I wish someone out there had dynos of before and after with IRMCs and such. :(
 

mikek2111987

Welcome to 3.Hate
i figured posting in this real old thread would get me some good feedback, my engine should be going in this weekend and the sooner it runs the better. few questions though

i read somewhere i need a throttle bracket for the swap, but it didnt mention the cable. do i need just the throttle and cruise control bracket or do i need both cables?

can anyone give me some good pictures or information on the vacuum line routing? im deleting the entire EGR and air pump smog ****, but i was looking at some pictures and 99+ doesnt look like they have the little vacuum distribution tube thing on the inside of the driver side fender

other then these 2 things everything else really doesnt sound that hard since im droppin an entire motor in instead of just the top end swap
 

sixpackstang

New Member
mikek2111987 said:
i read somewhere i need a throttle bracket for the swap, but it didnt mention the cable. do i need just the throttle and cruise control bracket or do i need both cables?
You'll want the 99+ throttle bracket and throttle cable. Apparently the car I got mine from didn't have cruise control, so I fabbed up a little bracket and got it to work with the stock cruise control cable.

mikek2111987 said:
can anyone give me some good pictures or information on the vacuum line routing? im deleting the entire EGR and air pump smog ****, but i was looking at some pictures and 99+ doesnt look like they have the little vacuum distribution tube thing on the inside of the driver side fender
If you need help with any of the vacuum lines, just ask me. When you start working on it, PM me and I'll even give you my cell phone so you can call me and I'll do my best to go out to my car and look to see where the lines go, as long as I'm not at work. I can even take pictures of something if you need me to. I also have no clue what you are talking about when you say vacuum distribution tube on the inside of the drivers fender?

Also, are you keeping the PCV valve? If you are, it would be best to get both lines from the valve covers off of a 99+. On a 94-98 the left valve cover goes to the intake, and the right side goes all the way across the engine to the intake. They are exactly opposite on 99+.
 

Azkiger

Wee...
There is a say 3" long tube that has like 4 vaccum tubes hooked to it on the drivers side fender, not sure when they stopped doing this since my friends 96 has that vaccum thing on it but my 98 does not, it pulls off of the brake drum vaccum and branches from there on my 98
 

sixpackstang

New Member
Azkiger said:
There is a say 3" long tube that has like 4 vaccum tubes hooked to it on the drivers side fender, not sure when they stopped doing this since my friends 96 has that vaccum thing on it but my 98 does not, it pulls off of the brake drum vaccum and branches from there on my 98

Oh ok. I think my 97 is like yours.

Either way, just pay attention what your vacuum lines are plugging into. Do they go onto the upper intake? Then mark them and make sure they go back onto a vacuum port on the new upper intake. It doesn't really matter where on the intake they go, just as long as they go on the intake.

Also keep in mind that if you are deleting the egr and possibly pcv, you will have extra vacuum ports on the intake, and they'll need to be capped off.
 

mikek2111987

Welcome to 3.Hate
time to bring back a dead thread, but it has alot of knowledable posters so its better then starting a new one

as opposed to what everyone else does, im putting an entire split port engine in my car instead of just the top end, since i blew up the bottom end on my single port. So, theres some electrical problems i seem to be encountering. im not at the point of putting the harness on the new one yet cause im still shimming the rockers, but ive noticed that quite a few things are diffierent, such as the Oil Pressure sender on the single port has a completly different plug end then the one on the split port. the CMP on the single port is also much differrent and like twice the size of the one on the split. is there any info you guys can give me on **** i might need to know? i mean unless i did something wrong when installing the cam, there is no reason for this motor to not run. the only thing that i havnt touched are heads, crank, and pistions. other then that, everything else is either new, fixed, or modded. so i really dont want to get ****ed over on the electric part because there are so many things that could be wrong
 

sixpackstang

New Member
mikek2111987 said:
time to bring back a dead thread, but it has alot of knowledable posters so its better then starting a new one

as opposed to what everyone else does, im putting an entire split port engine in my car instead of just the top end, since i blew up the bottom end on my single port. So, theres some electrical problems i seem to be encountering. im not at the point of putting the harness on the new one yet cause im still shimming the rockers, but ive noticed that quite a few things are diffierent, such as the Oil Pressure sender on the single port has a completly different plug end then the one on the split port. the CMP on the single port is also much differrent and like twice the size of the one on the split. is there any info you guys can give me on **** i might need to know? i mean unless i did something wrong when installing the cam, there is no reason for this motor to not run. the only thing that i havnt touched are heads, crank, and pistions. other then that, everything else is either new, fixed, or modded. so i really dont want to get ****ed over on the electric part because there are so many things that could be wrong
Sorry I would've gotten back to you much sooner but I just started a new job and moved into a new house this week. Just now got internet hooked up.

I know when I did mine, there were some sensors that had different plugs on them. I just spliced the new plug on there. I know you'll be doing some different sensors that I didn't have to do on the bottom end of the motor though, so I'm not entirely sure. As long as they have the same amount of wires I think you'll be fine. Let me know if you've already got it figured out or not.
 

mikek2111987

Welcome to 3.Hate
sixpackstang said:
Sorry I would've gotten back to you much sooner but I just started a new job and moved into a new house this week. Just now got internet hooked up.

I know when I did mine, there were some sensors that had different plugs on them. I just spliced the new plug on there. I know you'll be doing some different sensors that I didn't have to do on the bottom end of the motor though, so I'm not entirely sure. As long as they have the same amount of wires I think you'll be fine. Let me know if you've already got it figured out or not.
Pete came over and helped me out, we ended up swapping over the old CPS, the oil pressure sender, and the coolent temp sensor from the 94 to the 99. all i have to do now is get my fuel rail ready hope to god all the electronic **** works and that she will start right up
 

sixpackstang

New Member
mikek2111987 said:
Pete came over and helped me out, we ended up swapping over the old CPS, the oil pressure sender, and the coolent temp sensor from the 94 to the 99. all i have to do now is get my fuel rail ready hope to god all the electronic **** works and that she will start right up
Cool, good luck to ya!
 

Silentst2000

New Member
What's the difference between the two CPS? Are you talking about the Cam position sensor or crank? Why can't the old harness be modded to accept the new one?
 

mikek2111987

Welcome to 3.Hate
Silentst2000 said:
What's the difference between the two CPS? Are you talking about the Cam position sensor or crank? Why can't the old harness be modded to accept the new one?
the single port cam position sensor is much larger and had more wires running to it, the split port is smaller and has less wires
 

Silentst2000

New Member
mikek2111987 said:
the single port cam position sensor is much larger and had more wires running to it, the split port is smaller and has less wires
I understand the size differences and the different amount of wires but what is the difference between the two in how they work?
 
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