SOLVED (wiring for Glowshift gauges)

blackenedESP

New Member
i bought a pair of Glowshift gauges for my '04, one for vacuum/boost and one for air/fuel ratio. i am completely lost with how to wire them. was hoping someone could walk me through it. the instructions recommend using add-a-circuits, i'm just lost on where i should be connecting these wires.

boost/vacuum gauge: has 4 wires - black is ground, purple and orange go together to a switched 12v source, and yellow goes to a constant 12v source.

air/fuel ratio: has 4 wires - red goes to a switchd 12v source, black is ground, yellow goes to a constant 12v source, and green goes to O2 sensor sender wire.

it also says the gauge is for narrow band system only. if i have a wide band system, i'd have to install an additional O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. i will be installing an LC-1 wide band soon and i do have O2 sensors before the cats already though. so what is my situation with that?
 

DEstang

Why So Serious?
i bought a pair of Glowshift gauges for my '04, one for vacuum/boost and one for air/fuel ratio. i am completely lost with how to wire them. was hoping someone could walk me through it. the instructions recommend using add-a-circuits, i'm just lost on where i should be connecting these wires.

boost/vacuum gauge: has 4 wires - black is ground, purple and orange go together to a switched 12v source, and yellow goes to a constant 12v source.

air/fuel ratio: has 4 wires - red goes to a switchd 12v source, black is ground, yellow goes to a constant 12v source, and green goes to O2 sensor sender wire.

it also says the gauge is for narrow band system only. if i have a wide band system, i'd have to install an additional O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. i will be installing an LC-1 wide band soon and i do have O2 sensors before the cats already though. so what is my situation with that?

It's not difficult at all. Ground the black wires to a ground. Find a wiring diagram of the headlight switch. That will have constant 12v and switched 12v.

If you need help, bring the car to me and I'll wire them up for you.
 

blackenedESP

New Member
hmm. well here's a picture of the headlight switch from my Haynes manual. this doesn't really help me though. i took a look at the switch itself as well. would i be splicing the gauge wires into the wires running to the main connector? i don't see how i'd wire them to the switch itself. i'm just totally clueless here.




on the other hand, i do have the gauges mounted in my car and the vacuum line is hooked up and working. i'm getting a reading of about 15-16 at idle.
 

kobudo

Well-Known Member
Look farther back in your Hayne's manual, it will have wiring diagrams with the typical colors used.

The wire taps look like this, and can be found at any Radio Shack or auto store's electrical aisle:
 

blackenedESP

New Member
yeah i can't follow that haha. i got a voltage/continuity meter. i can just probe each of the wires in the connector to find the constant and switched 12v's, no?
 

kobudo

Well-Known Member
yeah i can't follow that haha. i got a voltage/continuity meter. i can just probe each of the wires in the connector to find the constant and switched 12v's, no?

You can, but I just got curious and looked at the wiring diagram "typical exterior lighting system (except headlights and fog lights)" in 12-27 of your Haynes manual, the headlamp switch is seen near the top middle of the diagram, directly beneath the dashed outlines for the fuse panel. It shows two wires going into and out of the headlamp switch: a tan/white wire running from the fuse panel, and a brown wire that runs to the parking, license, and other running lamps that are controlled by that switch.

Now, if all you're looking for is for the gauges to come on, this may work, as you will have your constant 12v running to a 15A fuse (the tan/white wire), and your gauges should illuminate, although you won't be able to control them with the dimmer . Of course, these aren't exterior lights, and you probably don't want them on that circuit. On page 12-30, "Typical Instrument Panel Illumination System," we see the rest of that switch, which shows a nice 10A fuse with a light green/yellow wire running to the switch from it. This wire is hot whenever that fuse is plugged in, and will make a great constant power source. As we look further down the wiring chart from the switch, there is a light blue/red wire coming off the switch that is connected to every other interior dash light -- the instrument cluster, CD player, the defroster switch light, the whole sha-bang. Bingo, you might say -- well, hold on tight, because we are about to be thrown a curve ball.

Now as that light blue/red wire leaves the switch, we see that it makes a trip back down to the fuse box where it protects these lights with a 10A fuse. Those fuses have an important job, and you don't want to use a bigger fuse (that 15A fella that the tan/white wire calls "daddy") when the 10A fuse will provide you the protection you really want for the new gauges.

So, now it's time to dig into the manufacturer's specifications and find out what they recommend: 10A or 15A. 10A is the safer option for your new gauges, but if you guess wrong you'll still be out a cheap fuse and the time to re-do the job right. If I had to guess, I would guess 10A first, which means tapping into that lt green/yellow wire for the constant (it runs to pole D1, by the way, from your light switch picture earlier) and that lt. blue/red wire from anywhere that's handy other than right off the switch (where it's still protected by just the 15A fuse).

If the manufacturer says 15A is fine, then we can just tap into that tan/white(constant) wire and the lt blue/red switched wire right off the light switch, before it goes to that 10A fuse.

Double check your documentation, the manufacturer's site, call them if you need to, and good luck!
 

kobudo

Well-Known Member
No prob. Good luck with it, and don't forget to remove the negative from your battery first. I blew that little 10A sucker (or maybe it was a 5A elsewhere) plugging my new radio in without thinking about the battery.
 

blackenedESP

New Member
i got them working. the colors weren't the same as the manual said but i traced them on the diagram and got the right ones. thanks again.

EDIT: for anyone that is looking for what i was, do as DeathBySpray said and go with the headlight switch. i was replacing my gauge cluster panel with Glowshift's to hold my 2 gauges so the headlight switch was right there for me. looking at the electrical connector going into the headlight switch, i tapped into the green/white for my constant 12v source, and if i remember correctly, blue/white for my switched 12v source. i wired the ground to the 2 bolts that are securing the fuse panel. the gauge lights come on when i turn on the parking lights and headlights, as well as dim when turning the knob. works great.
 
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