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Split Port Swap 96 Mustang

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by douglass, Apr 12, 2015.

  1. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    The engine is pretty much finished. Just need to install the motor mounts and finish the wiring. I bought a 98 GT, in August, and that has consumed my time. I am going to try and swap this motor in before the end of the year. I need to do a few more things to the GT, before I swap the split port in. Time has not been my friend this year, but I have been able to get a lot done considering.
     
  2. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    What did you think of the fuel rail?
     
  3. Lonnie-S

    Lonnie-S Member

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    Your leg work (and solution) with respect to the fuel rail is one of the things that's going to save me a lot of time and trouble. I'm starting out with a stock '94 setup, but I already have a set of 2000 Mustang heads and full intake plus throttle body, etc. To get going (initially with the stock engine) I need to have a fuel return line, which I'll be able to keep.

    I still need to find a '96-'98 Windstar upper as I really need to reduce the engine height as much as possible. So, I'll be a little different than you, but the core intake infrastructure will be the same.

    Regards,

    Lonnie
     
  4. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    I'll post up as things progress. We have some holidays coming up soon, and will give me more time. I really want to swap the engine in, but want to finish the GT first.

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    JeDanRo and Phil II like this.
  5. Lonnie-S

    Lonnie-S Member

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    That GT looks nice. I can see why you were distracted.

    Cheers,
     
  6. 94w/00 3.8v6 + 02w/4.6

    94w/00 3.8v6 + 02w/4.6 New Member

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    I'm a year out since my lil 94 blew up. I had bought a 00 v6. I worked hard and also replaced the auto w/5 speed t5. I ported and polished heads and intakes. Cold air. Spliced 94 harness since I did put in 00 harness and notice my power was all over everywhere else. I deleted cats. Lower o2 sensors are tricked with anti fouler's. My upper o2s won't break. Either read to lean or rich. I'm curious about difference in cps since I wired in 00 instead of my 94. If I put my 94 back in will it work better and, will i have to change from 13° back to 54° with install? What can I do to just make my cam no longer read a fault if anything? I have already put 8000 miles on as is. It broke a ball joint mid trip then a tensioner at end of trip.
     
  7. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    I finished the GT! It took much longer than I had planned, but I am very pleased with the results




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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
    JeDanRo likes this.
  8. JeDanRo

    JeDanRo Active Member

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  9. 6 Shooter

    6 Shooter Well-Known Member

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    Wow. Beautiful. Looks brand new. Love the blue lighting in the front on the inside.
     
  10. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    The split port engine is complete. Just need to swap it in. This will be a plug and play swap. I will only need to swap the clutch and flywheel off my existing engine, and flash the computer with the new tune. I have two tunes already made, one using the 99 mustang computer code as a base over my 96 code. I'm hoping to start the swap this week, and will take pictures with the upper intake manifold off, showing how the fuel lines plug into the f-150 rail.

    This last round I installed the engine mounts, and finished the wiring modifactions. I am currently using a 1996 Mustang 3.8 engine harness, and had to extend the wires to the coil pack, TPS, EGR solenoid, and DPFE sensor. I used a doner harness from the 99 3.8, cut the length needed, soldered together using heat shrink tubing. It looks pretty stock. I used the spark plug wires/plugs for the 99 Mustang 3.8

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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  11. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    Thank you, I have been working on the car for close to a year. It took a lot of work to get it to look like that. Here's an idea of how bad the paint was. This was after I did a test spot on the hood by hand. I did a two stage paint correction to the whole car (using a machine).

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    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
  12. Lonnie-S

    Lonnie-S Member

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    Very nice, Douglas. You really have all the details handled.

    Cheers,
     
  13. 76Highboy

    76Highboy Member

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    That GT looks great!
    Nice work on the swap, I am watching what you do closely. I need to get a f-150 rail next.
     
  14. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    Thank you



    I picked up an EGR tube yesterday at the pick yard for a newer 3.8 I think 02-04 because it looked to give me more clearance around the fuel lines/rail. The DPFE hose connection on the tub is placed next to the EGR vs on the side along the header. Does the placement of the DPFE tubes change how the EGR will function?
     
  15. 6 Shooter

    6 Shooter Well-Known Member

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    Nope, but the angle of the EGR bung is important. The bung must be aimed at the flow of the exhaust to force exhaust gases up the pipe to the EGR.
     
  16. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    I am using the Factory 96 Mustang Headers, and it took just a little tweaking on the 99-00 EGR tube to be able to fit the EGR valve on the 99-00 lower intake manifold. Sounds like I should be good to use ether tubes. Thank you for confirming.
     
  17. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    It's finally in. I got the engine, and transmission installed yesterday. I'll be tinkering with it through the next couple of weeks. So far it looks good. *** The Anchor Brand motor mounts suck!!!*** I had to open the holes to be able to mount them on the engine mount plates. Next, the mounts would not sit in the kmember correctly. Thank you flickr, I am able to post pictures again.

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    [​IMG]IMG_20170924_154154[/url] by Douglass, on Flickr[/IMG] [​IMG]
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  18. 76Highboy

    76Highboy Member

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    Good work man. Glad to see the progress. Helps keep me going on mine.
     
  19. douglass

    douglass Active Member

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    As I suspected, the EGR tube was in the direct path of the Fuel supply line. I had to modify the tube to fit around the valve cover rather than go over. I'll take a pitcure once installed, but this could get a little more tricky if you have the AC in the car ( I have an AC delete pully). I cut out the bend that went over the valve cover and flipped it so it went around the valve cover. I just tacked welded it tonight, and will bring it to the muffer shop to get welded. I only had to add about a 1/2 inch more tube to the factory lenth. The circled areas are where I made the cuts.

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  20. Lonnie-S

    Lonnie-S Member

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    I bought some Anchor mounts myself. The quality was fine, but the little locking buttons for the K-member were different from stock. I had to make my own chassis-side mounts anyway, so I just made my plates to suit - no problem.

    I did notice that the stock mounts I was replacing (the rubber was close to rotting, and way too playable) had a thin layer (maybe 1/16") of a rubber-like material on them that the Anchor mounts don't have. I asked at the auto parts store if anyone knew what the material was, and where I could get some, but nobody had an idea. My theory is that the broke the metal-to-metal interface between the Anchor mount and the K-member, so less vibration transmitted to the chassis.

    You can see it here.
    Rubber-llike Mount Material.jpg
    Did your mounts have this material, Douglas?

    Your engine looks great, by the way. It's nice and shiny. Like!

    Cheers,