Stupid question....involves A-frame/suspension torque

dchall89

Member
Okay, it's stupid, but I'm just feeling out what it could be.

I've made a few posts on here and I've gotten some excellent help from you guys, here's my question:

I have replaced the entire suspension system, except coil springs (new insulators however), and entire steering system (lines, pump, rack, inner/outer tie-rods) I am getting a slight pull the left that is more prominent when braking, but I haven't done anything to brake system and it didn't have a pull before my major work. I've checked everything out, and it all checks out to me, the only thing I can think of is maybe a bolt in front suspension is too tight and not allowing proper flexing under load? Either an A-frame bolt (there's front and rear) or a sway-bar link that is tighter than the other?

I know how dumb this sounds, but I'm just looking to see if I've overlooked something, I can't imagine what it could be, and I know there's some people 100x smarter than me that could chime in.
 

08'MustangDude

Profile Violation
I don't see anywhere in that, where you said you went and got the
alignment done after replacing all that... They will tell you if it won't
line up due to a suspension issue. Well, anyone who knows their
job would...

Anytime you do suspension work, the front end needs lined up.
Even if you counted the winds on the tie-rod ends, it won't be
perfect. Plus, you can only do that when you're just replacing them
on the same rack with the inner tie-rods. So, you're probably toed
out on the left.

With all new parts, the geometry will not be the same.
 

dchall89

Member
I don't see anywhere in that, where you said you went and got the
alignment done after replacing all that... They will tell you if it won't
line up due to a suspension issue. Well, anyone who knows their
job would...

Anytime you do suspension work, the front end needs lined up.
Even if you counted the winds on the tie-rod ends, it won't be
perfect. Plus, you can only do that when you're just replacing them
on the same rack with the inner tie-rods. So, you're probably toed
out on the left.

With all new parts, the geometry will not be the same.

I'm so sorry, I'm frazzled, I did get an alignment after I was done.
 

08'MustangDude

Profile Violation
IF you had it lined up at a shop, and they took it for a test ride
after, and they didn't say anything about it pulling to the left when
braking, then they didn't do their jobs. They would have brought
it back in, and checked the alignment again. Then, if nothing fixed
the pulling issue, they would have informed you. I know this, because
something like it happened to me with a HHR I used to own. They
tried lining it up three times, and three test rides, and the wheel was
still cocked to the left when driving straight. He asked if the car
was in an accident, I said yes, you can see the hood is very slightly
off, and the damage to the condenser. Later, I had a clutch put in,
that resulted in me having to replace the lower control arms because
the ass that did the clutch tore the passenger side wafer bushing
to **** when he did the clutch. I had to torch that bolt out. The
driver side came right out, but when I took the control arm off there,
the sleeve slid right out of the bushing. SO, took it back to get it
lined up again, nothing was said by the mechanic this time, so I asked
if it lined up better than last time he said yeah. STILL, the wheel
was cocked to the left, but only a tad now. So, there was still an
issue, but it was fine. Point is here, when he tried three times before,
I didn't know the bushings were bad, they were...

You will not have a bolt too tight that would cause the issue. If it
drives straight till you brake, then I suggest you bleed the front
brakes. IT was not an issue before, perhaps, because the suspension
was worn and the pull wasn't augmented by the loose and bad
parts. Now that it is all tightened up, it can show another issue.
That can be a wheel bearing, brake gabbing too hard on that side,
or still have a bad tie rod end or ball joint.

The shop you went to, should have investigated the pulling issue when
they test drove it. If they could not fix it, then they should have
told you about it. OR, there wasn't one, and it ironically happened
after you left the shop...
 

Serpent

Active Member
pulling only when braking usually indicates a brake issue. when you had the suspension apart, assume the brakes came off. grease or something on the rotors? pinched line? sticking caliper or something of that nature would cause it.
 

dchall89

Member
IF you had it lined up at a shop, and they took it for a test ride
after, and they didn't say anything about it pulling to the left when
braking, then they didn't do their jobs. They would have brought
it back in, and checked the alignment again. Then, if nothing fixed
the pulling issue, they would have informed you. I know this, because
something like it happened to me with a HHR I used to own. They
tried lining it up three times, and three test rides, and the wheel was
still cocked to the left when driving straight. He asked if the car
was in an accident, I said yes, you can see the hood is very slightly
off, and the damage to the condenser. Later, I had a clutch put in,
that resulted in me having to replace the lower control arms because
the ass that did the clutch tore the passenger side wafer bushing
to **** when he did the clutch. I had to torch that bolt out. The
driver side came right out, but when I took the control arm off there,
the sleeve slid right out of the bushing. SO, took it back to get it
lined up again, nothing was said by the mechanic this time, so I asked
if it lined up better than last time he said yeah. STILL, the wheel
was cocked to the left, but only a tad now. So, there was still an
issue, but it was fine. Point is here, when he tried three times before,
I didn't know the bushings were bad, they were...

You will not have a bolt too tight that would cause the issue. If it
drives straight till you brake, then I suggest you bleed the front
brakes. IT was not an issue before, perhaps, because the suspension
was worn and the pull wasn't augmented by the loose and bad
parts. Now that it is all tightened up, it can show another issue.
That can be a wheel bearing, brake gabbing too hard on that side,
or still have a bad tie rod end or ball joint.

The shop you went to, should have investigated the pulling issue when
they test drove it. If they could not fix it, then they should have
told you about it. OR, there wasn't one, and it ironically happened
after you left the shop...

You know I can guarantee the shop I have a lifetime alignment at doesn't test drive. Their system shows a read out, either it's in red or green. Greens good. Thanks for letting me know the bolt can't be too tight. When I had front suspension off I should have just done bearings too, I was being cheap. I have it in a different shop and they're swapping steering rack, new one I put on if defective and I ran out of time to do it myself. Maybe bad rack could cause that pull too? Fingers crossed.
 

08'MustangDude

Profile Violation
The place I take mine to be lined up, they test drive it when they're done.

Firestone, NTB, for example, do not. They're too busy to do things right.

If the rack was bad, it can pull, but it only doing it on braking is the issue.
A bad rack, you'd be swaying while driving, constantly correcting your
steer. Not that the braking issue isn't the rack, one side of it, but usually
you'd also feel that when steering. Guess you will find out.
 
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