Spdricer
Active Member
be as prepared as possible and bang it out over a weekend
#TheRebuild
- Thread starter Spdricer
- Start date
Joshuaw22
New Member
I have already done some stuff to it. Its in the garage area under Redneckmenace i believe. But i look forward to more progress on your car.
Spdricer
Active Member
So as of now I was on the final stretch and I made a big oops... i welded in the dash area and now my car is not recognizing the tuner ...I checked all my fuses and visually inspected what I could all seems ok.. all other electronics are working properly. According to sct the obd port is on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter which the fuse is good.. also because at first it wasent warming up as usual I figured it was the computer so I bought another to eliminate that and that was not the issue.. My next plan of action after no luck with my volt meter will be to swap dash or take out dash completely and use a racepak digital dash and a stand alone engine management system then later on figure out how to make door locks lights a,c ect work seperately
Spdricer
Active Member
Turns out it was sct's device that was malfunctioning then I ended up frying my computer later doing something else troubleshooting.. so now I have the new computer ..towing it to the dealership to flash in the vin and have the pats all line up should be good to fire up and start dealing with 6shooter on remote tuning again ..also before the crap hit the fan when I was tuning with 6shooter the first time it idled fine like you can see in the video but revving it past 3k it would not and it sounded like a spark issue ..upon doing some research online the screamin demon coil pack that I bought from this tbone guy on this site. They are known to go bad so I guess it went bad on him and he decided to pass it on to the next victim which just so happened to be me.. well that trend stops with me because I threw it in the garbage.. while I was figuring out the sct issue out I put on another coil pack I had and voala 5k with ease.. so can't wait to see if I'm back in business tomorrow..fingers crossed!
Spdricer
Active Member
Ehhh... 
the "mustang specialist" at my local stealership whom I have dealt with before, was not successful at completing the task that i had him do for me 6 months back.. there is something wrong that I have yet to find out and honestly.. I'm tired of trying 
..so now I will purchase the AEM standalone engine management system and wire it in parallel with what is exsisting so I have full control of my engine but still utilizing my factory gauge cluster locks windows ect..
I am not too upset about this turn of events because honestly it had to happen eventually there are no dyno tuners that will use SCTs software only AEM and as good as a remote tuner 6shooter is and has proven that many times over.. and as much as I wanted to have it running for a while all motor on 6shooters remote tunes through the sct software. I know that there are many very talented tuners here in Miami that are more than capable of creating me a safe tune with this engine/turbo combo
Now I just need to cough up like 1200 for the AEM computer
and go through the process of wiring it up properly 
and I think I need to get yet another wideband because the AEM gauge is apparently very sensitive..
the "mustang specialist" at my local stealership whom I have dealt with before, was not successful at completing the task that i had him do for me 6 months back.. there is something wrong that I have yet to find out and honestly.. I'm tired of trying ..so now I will purchase the AEM standalone engine management system and wire it in parallel with what is exsisting so I have full control of my engine but still utilizing my factory gauge cluster locks windows ect..I am not too upset about this turn of events because honestly it had to happen eventually there are no dyno tuners that will use SCTs software only AEM and as good as a remote tuner 6shooter is and has proven that many times over.. and as much as I wanted to have it running for a while all motor on 6shooters remote tunes through the sct software. I know that there are many very talented tuners here in Miami that are more than capable of creating me a safe tune with this engine/turbo combo
Now I just need to cough up like 1200 for the AEM computer
and go through the process of wiring it up properly and I think I need to get yet another wideband because the AEM gauge is apparently very sensitive..
Spdricer
Active Member
The dyno tuner that is familiar with the aem system is going to be available some time next week. The plan is to have a sit down and come to an agreement of a aem computer that is compatible with my car and is also a computer that uses the software that he is already familiar with. Also he will be figuring out what the trigger pattern is for my engine (from what I have gathered doing research the trigger pattern is documented by the number of teeth on the flywheel that pass by a certain point before the spark signal is sent) I donno I'll be paying close attention when I speak with the tuner and let you guys know how he finds the trigger pattern. He might actually use a trial error method or have them saved. I was hunting it down myself and I found out that even v6s in the same car of the same year even can still have different trigger patterns. I'm going off of like 1 source on that 1 so I donno hopefully this tuner guy has all the answers lol
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Phil II
Cone Destroyer
Spark is controlled by your crank sensor, and fuel injection is controlled by the cam sensor.
The oem ignition fires in wasted spark, so its arcing to cylinders at a time. One is exhausting while the other is on compression. This means the ignition control doesn't need to know which cylinder is on compression, just that its either of two per instance.
The cam sensor enables the pcm to know which cylinder is on intake stroke. This enables sequential injection. The sensor resolution for this role is much less than ignition control. Fuel injection is not as sensitive as ignition.
The oem ignition fires in wasted spark, so its arcing to cylinders at a time. One is exhausting while the other is on compression. This means the ignition control doesn't need to know which cylinder is on compression, just that its either of two per instance.
The cam sensor enables the pcm to know which cylinder is on intake stroke. This enables sequential injection. The sensor resolution for this role is much less than ignition control. Fuel injection is not as sensitive as ignition.
Spdricer
Active Member
I'm beginning to understand this area more now thank u for the brief explanation I'll keep reading it over to try to get a better understanding..
However, as I proceed in my quest to adapt an aem standalone engine management system a particular nuisance question seems to be reoccurring. The question is what is the trigger pattern?
At this point I'm not even to trying to find out mine in particular I just want clarification on what it is exactly and how it's found from there I will find it for my engine
Seems to be something the average Joe is not familiar with
..so the tuner is still not yet available but thats ok I'll wait
..good things come to those who are patient
However, as I proceed in my quest to adapt an aem standalone engine management system a particular nuisance question seems to be reoccurring. The question is what is the trigger pattern?
At this point I'm not even to trying to find out mine in particular I just want clarification on what it is exactly and how it's found from there I will find it for my engine
Seems to be something the average Joe is not familiar with
..so the tuner is still not yet available but thats ok I'll wait
..good things come to those who are patient
Spdricer
Active Member
**HUGE UPDATE**
Yeaaa so it turns out this whole time I had an aftermarket alarm that was taking my ground and distributing it through a circuit board as well as there were resistors soldered in line before the wire returned to the coil pack
I was afraid to touch that area of the car I saw a lot of wires there that seems out of place but since my experience with electrical is short and sketchy I decided to just leave that part alone.
As I was building the car I never showed any attention to that area which now a year later I see that was a huge mistake come to find out now my coil pack was not grounded.
The aftermarket alarm was pulled out and the Ford wires are now corrected.
it I also was having issues with the stock maf not being able to keep up.
Then when I connected the hpx math the value files were incorrect so it's been a lot of hurdles that I've been jumping through
I'm very thankful for the help of six shooter our 2 minds combined produced amazing results if I might say so myself..
however the work is not done and we have many vallies to cross and mountains to climb and as I said before the a fun is all in the journey I have learned much if you read through this thread you will see me grow and at this point a car's internals do not look like Chinese to me anymore so all things considered I came out winning with the knowledge of the proper way to build a car so tomorrow's a new day I will install 3 inch tube and load the tune that six-shooter will send me on an email and hopefully get this thing finally on the road and on the way to boosting and making turbo noises
Yeaaa so it turns out this whole time I had an aftermarket alarm that was taking my ground and distributing it through a circuit board as well as there were resistors soldered in line before the wire returned to the coil pack
I was afraid to touch that area of the car I saw a lot of wires there that seems out of place but since my experience with electrical is short and sketchy I decided to just leave that part alone.
As I was building the car I never showed any attention to that area which now a year later I see that was a huge mistake come to find out now my coil pack was not grounded.
The aftermarket alarm was pulled out and the Ford wires are now corrected.
it I also was having issues with the stock maf not being able to keep up.
Then when I connected the hpx math the value files were incorrect so it's been a lot of hurdles that I've been jumping through
I'm very thankful for the help of six shooter our 2 minds combined produced amazing results if I might say so myself..
however the work is not done and we have many vallies to cross and mountains to climb and as I said before the a fun is all in the journey I have learned much if you read through this thread you will see me grow and at this point a car's internals do not look like Chinese to me anymore so all things considered I came out winning with the knowledge of the proper way to build a car so tomorrow's a new day I will install 3 inch tube and load the tune that six-shooter will send me on an email and hopefully get this thing finally on the road and on the way to boosting and making turbo noises
Spdricer
Active Member
Also and reply to myself for my last post the trigger pattern is a wheel on the crank itself that's inside of the oil area of the engine where the crank is spinning the only way to see it and confirm what you're motor truly has which is essential to running the standalone ecu. To get to it u have to take off the front cover of the motor so you have to take off the crank pulley the whole belt assembly you have to empty the oil so it's a huge thing kinda not really I guess
but the alternative is to install a standalone trigger wheel on your crank pulley itself by drilling holes in your pulley and through bolting a wheel basically like a disc looks almost like a grinder cutoff wheel except for it has teeth and it has about 32 teeth and it's one area that's missing about an inch of teeth and that specific areais supposed to be 6 teeth ahead of top dead center depending on the Standalone that you're using in the case of a halltech I think no the aem. stand-alone
Then weld a bracket or find a strong set of bolts and fabricate a bracket to hold the sensor that will read the new trigger wheel that you just bolted to the pulley
anyway thankfully I found the problem and I don't have to use a standalone I am going to continue to tune the car with SCT and the advantage 3 software
Might get a dyno tune from blow by racing in a month or 2
but the alternative is to install a standalone trigger wheel on your crank pulley itself by drilling holes in your pulley and through bolting a wheel basically like a disc looks almost like a grinder cutoff wheel except for it has teeth and it has about 32 teeth and it's one area that's missing about an inch of teeth and that specific areais supposed to be 6 teeth ahead of top dead center depending on the Standalone that you're using in the case of a halltech I think no the aem. stand-alone
Then weld a bracket or find a strong set of bolts and fabricate a bracket to hold the sensor that will read the new trigger wheel that you just bolted to the pulley
anyway thankfully I found the problem and I don't have to use a standalone I am going to continue to tune the car with SCT and the advantage 3 software
Might get a dyno tune from blow by racing in a month or 2
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fasterthanyou
Active Member
Hold on a minute. Are you local to south florida? I'm relatively close to BBR. Want to meet up and do silly v6 **** sometime? Don't worry I'm not hitting on you, I'm married.
Spdricer
Active Member
Abso freaking lutely I would love to hang out and talk to someone that went through and understands what I'm going through. I would like to take pics and videos of tandem drifts or donuts and burnouts ect. .. meet up at events like car meets and races #downtolinkup but my car wont be boosting for like another month.
Spdricer
Active Member
I added u
Spdricer
Active Member
So to update my thread whether or not anybody is reading... my car is currently running and driving everything seems to be working pretty much the way is supposed to be.. motor has a slight miss.. I'm not too sure whether it was because my tune was running rich or because there is a problem in the ignition system or because I have my front 02 sensors disconnected.. either way. I moved to Orlando so now I have to settle my living situation.. however things are good and I'm moving fast getting things done in that area and I think if all goes aa planned this weekend I'm going to trailer the mustang to Orlando and Begin to tweak the mustang here in Orlando.. For anybody who is buying a MAF off of VMP performance be careful they sent me the wrong mass air flow sensor and because of that.. now I have to wait for the new one to come.. and then I have to retune it.. and all that costs time and money ...really sucks tbh. So long story Short.. almost ready to have the car running correctly.. then once everything looks OK I will take it back apart to put the Turbo kit on.. baby steps baby steps baby steps
Also I met Phil AKA 6 shooter in real life and hes just as cool in real life as he is on the forum or through messages lol it was nice having coffee with you Phil! Until next time..
Also I met Phil AKA 6 shooter in real life and hes just as cool in real life as he is on the forum or through messages lol it was nice having coffee with you Phil! Until next time..
Sideshow Bob
Active Member
Thanks for the update I'm still here. I have the VMP 75mm hpx and very happy with it.
Spdricer
Active Member
Correction I did not receive the wrong mouth they sent me the right mouth but I compute confuse the with AVM P 5000 instead of a be a 5000 the VMP is the HPX which is more for my horse power range
Another correction in the past I might have wrote on here the the coil pack I bought through this site from another user was badd and now I know for sure that it was my aftermarket alarm not is coil pack so I apologize for that
I got the engine swap all finished everything is working normal if you go to my other thread (single turbo build) you will see I started the Turbo buildI still have lots of work to do I have to create a pcv system and I have to connect the 5" down pipe to my to 2.5 exhaust pipes I have to get the plugs gapped to 0.28 mmI have to relocate my ABS moduleI have to connect my steering columnHard now my inner cooler get a boost gauge
I still don't understand how my brake booster is supposed to be set up now that vacuum will become boost
Still learning
Still loving the journey
Another correction in the past I might have wrote on here the the coil pack I bought through this site from another user was badd and now I know for sure that it was my aftermarket alarm not is coil pack so I apologize for that
I got the engine swap all finished everything is working normal if you go to my other thread (single turbo build) you will see I started the Turbo buildI still have lots of work to do I have to create a pcv system and I have to connect the 5" down pipe to my to 2.5 exhaust pipes I have to get the plugs gapped to 0.28 mmI have to relocate my ABS moduleI have to connect my steering columnHard now my inner cooler get a boost gauge
I still don't understand how my brake booster is supposed to be set up now that vacuum will become boost
Still learning
Still loving the journey
Sideshow Bob
Active Member
It's no problem at all as soon as you remove your foot from the accelerator the throttle body goes close and your back under vacuum. Furthermore the booster is just a assistance or mechanical advantage. You'll be able to stop the car weather the booster is working or not.