Toph's All Out Turbo Build


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Couple more things done on the mustang this weekend.

I took the 03 cobra driveshaft I bought last week in Toledo and lined it up and it went on nice and quick. Initially the splines weren't lining up but after fidiling with it for a couple mins it finally popped in. So the drivetrain is now connected to the rear diff/suspension.

Also test fit the mid pipe. Originally when I put it on the passenger side was off by about 1" and the pipes were hitting the trans tunnel. Crawled out from under the car to look it over, and then noticed "BBK" was upside down. Flipped it up and it fit on pretty well. Who would have thought the x pipe was freaking directional. At least no welding will be needed.

Also fitted up the coolant temp sensor into the heater hose inlet to the heater core since that is the simplest place to get the heat. There is a bung you can use down by the oil filter attachment, but the oil filter relocation and the engine mount are kinda of in the way so I will just use the heater hose temp and compare against datalogs to make sure its well enough in the ballpark.

Got the brackets for the resevoir bottle figured out. Currently aluminum, and a bit flimsy for what I was hoping, so I will use the aluminum ones as templates to make out of some steel to hold the bottle properly in place.

Got the fitting for the power steering line into the pump, got the pump onto the engine and then got the serpentine belt done, so now all I need to do is make an AN powersteering line from the pump to the hydrooboost, adn then get a better powersteering cooler and that will be all set.

Started messing with lower radiator hose. The outlet of my radiator is 1.75", but inlet of the cooling system on the engine is 1.5". Also the powersteering pump is big and close to the line, so I will have to cut the rad hose that came in the engine management kit and splice in a 1.5" to 1.75" 90* bend (that I luckily had jsut sitting around from an old project). Just need to buy a 1.5" - 1.5" aluminum coupler and the lower coolant line and the entire cooling system will be complete.

Next we moved onto wiring. Got the old pcm harness loom out and starting to go through it to figure out what I can get rid of and what I need to keep. Also found my AC request electrical signals that I will need to splice into the new control pack harness to control the AC clutch. Also ran the wiring loom for the new control kit to get an idea on where everything will roughly go.


Spent last night at the kitchen table getting the new gauges into the cluster I bought. Finally got them all fit in after a lot of dremeling and measuring to make sure they were more or less even.


I need to start working on the car during the weeknight evenings as well and try to just focus on completing one small project at a time. Still didn't get to the gas tank because the cobra tank has a vent tube for the baffled area that is too tall for the fuel hat to clear, and I am out of dremmel cut off wheels and my pipe cutter was broken. So once I get that clearanced I should be able to get the tank together and start running fuel lines on Thursday.


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Got a little bit more done this weekend.

Friday night I worked on getting the fuel hat/pumps/sender all together, and then broke the sender. So Saturday morning I got up early and headed over to pick and pull and spent two hours going over two mustangs to get what I needed. Got some new A pillars (since my old one was hacked up from the A pillar gauge pod), a new firewall cowl cover, and finally a fuel sender. Took a long time becuase now instead of mounting on 4 stands they only mount on 3. They put two on the front, one on the rear, and for the mustangs they just drop that stand right on the fuel tank. AWESOME. Managed to find a jack and lift it up onto a couple spare stands they had to finally get the tank down adn get the sender. 10 min job turned into an hr because of that.

Anyways, got the hat all together and the depth of the fuel pump figured out, but then this vent tube kept hitting on the billet fuel hat. Ended up cutting a little over 1.5-2" off of it.

After three attempts of shortening it we finally got the hat assembly to fit inside. Ran the wires for the fuel pump (I left a couple spare red/black wires in there in case I decide to boost in the future and need another pump) and sealed up the wiring holes with Seal-All.



Tank Together:

That was about as far as I got thanks to the time lost at the pick and pull. Did finish the gauge pod mostly, and wanted to see how it looked in the car, so I mocked it up. I'm pretty happy with how they came out.



Also mounted up the new powersteering cooler but forgot to get a pic. Ordered this powersteering reservoir though and a bunch of line, couplers, fittings, and the electrical connectors for the gauges so I can get that stuff all wired up. Nickel and dime, nickel and dime....



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Thanks for the comments guys. (And DKilbourne, of course the shift knob will make it faster. Also, you lucked out on that deal. A month after I bought it from you LMR now offers a reproduction cobra knob for $30).

Finally finalized where I am going to mount the fuel regulator after a lot of thinking things over and going back and forth. Was thinking maybe on the driver side where the stock fuse box is, but wasn't a fan of tucking all those wires under the fender. Plus the powersteering reservoir needs to go there too. Also looked at mounting it directly on the fuel rail, but not a fan of a big block on the side, not to mention there wasn't a lot of space to really make it work/get the lines to it.

Decided to finalize the intake path, then the powersteering reservoir, and the new ecu (which will tuck very nice into the passenger fender and won't be seen). Then decided because there was such a giant hole on the passenger side where the stock intake used to go, thats where the regulator needed to go. Got some more 90* bends from jegs, test fit some line, and decided to mount it at an angle to make the transitions from the line to the reg easy and provide a nice straight shot from the reg to the fuel rail.

TL;DR: Fuel regulator is going on the passenger side front and center.



Will be easy to check the lines, adjust pressure as needed, and easy to read the gauge here.

Also, checked the fit of the strut tower bar, went on like a charm. The only thing it comes close to is the heater hoses, so no big deal. But no room for the 5.0 Engine cover. Ohh well. Maybe if I can find one to borrow I can check, but I don't think its gonna fit.


Now that the regulator has a set position, goal for the weekend is to:
1) Make bracket for fuel regulator (Right now its got that NHRA approved zip tie mount)
2) Run lines to fuel tank
3) Make lines from tank to fuel filter / bracket
4) Mount Powersteering Reservoir/finish lines
5) Remount stock fuse box / wiring
6) Mount Exhaust
7) Mount new ECU / Start wiring

If I can get through items 1-6, the car will physically be mechanically together.


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Decently successful weekend, but that fuel system took up all my time.

Saturday I spent three hours making two brakets and half of the powersteering lines.

Fuel Regulator bracket:

Powersteering resevoir mount location (still need to drill / tap the line to the powersteering pump, otherwise its done)

Powersteering cooler I put on a while ago:

Lines for the powersteering cooler all done:

Then on sunday we finally ran the lines. What a bitch. Lots of planning and figuring out where they would go. I still had the solid vapor tube line from the fuel tank to the engine, so I basically just followed that like the stock line did.

Lots of holes, rivnuts, cushion clamps, zipties, and hours later, I have the fuel tank in with all the fuel hoses done.

Initially ran them up in the fender well. There is actually a lot of room here and the shock and coil would have to completely FAIL for the wheel/tire to get up in it. There is about an inch clearance between the fuel lines to the fender well liner when its in the arch.

Cushion clamps

Down under the car

Around the seat posts

Down the tunnel (there is about 1.5-2" of clearance to the driveshaft)

And out around the gas tank. Ended up just doing straight connections here. Originally i wanted to make some sort of easy to get to disconnect, but there just wasn't room and there is actually plenty of space to get the lines off the tank when you drop it about halfway.

Shitty picture but TANK IS IN

Decided to put the fuel filter in the fender arch. Easy to get to, still on the feed line before the regulator, and it tucks nicely out of the way.

Feed line for the engine from the regulator done. It will tie up nicely on the strut tower brace.


Regulator with Gauge

Still need to find a place for the remote oil filter, mount exhaust, finish the powersteering reservoir, and then wiring. Hopefully this week I can get the oil filter and reservoir done, then tackle the exhaust this weekend, and hopefully start on the wiring.

And finally a general under body shot of the MM kmember with the engine / longtubes I have been meaning to take.


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faux the 5.0 engine cover ...looks more mechanical and beast mode just like that
reg bracket is perfect.. i would paint the thicker steel part of it black and leave the thin aluminum part that holds the reg bare...

sooo sick though loving the write up!!!! keep that momentum!


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Another big weekend on the car.

Friday night I got the vacuum lines for the engine figured out. Hard to see, but pretty got the interior vacuum controls for the HVAC, the signal for the fuel regulator, and the pneumatic control for the CMCV in the intakes all plumbed up. 3/8" vacuum line is stupid expensive, around $4 a foot.

Also redid the hard line of the PCV breather with some flex hose so it wouldn't try to pull the insert out of the intake

Saturday we got the oil filter relocation set up on the back of the bumper beam, as well as got the oil lines made up from the block to the filter.


Also made up a new hydrboost to steering rack an line. It took forever to find the teflon o rings for the power steering an fitting adapters (apparently they are known as seals, not o rings).

Then started setting up the exhaust. First the mid pipe, then the catback. Apparently someone didn't want them to touch thought.



Exhaust tips are kinda Ehh. So I will probably end up changing them / tucking them back into the bumper a bit later on.

Today I had to pick up a couple odds and ends and ended up finding the perfect sound tube delete block off for the intake pipe from Advance Auto. Its an expansion plug rubber expander, so it fits in nice and snug, and then you can tighten it down to hold in the intake.


Also, we spent a lot of time with some bends, 3" pipe, and grinding / welding, but finally ended up with the exhaust completed under the car.

That exhaust is I think 1-5/8" primaries to dual 3" collectors, 3" x pipe and 3" dual exhaust around the IRS, with straight through perforated mufflers. Its gonna be loud.

Honestly, thats pretty much it for the mechanical side of things.

Engine, IN
Transmission, IN
Drivetrain, IN
Exhaust, DONE
Cooling, DONE
Powersteering, DONE
Fuel system, DONE

I have one AC line that we test fit tonight and will get welded up tomorrow/this week. Also need a cap for the top of the power steering reservoir.

Now we get to start focusing on the wiring. Will start with the interior wiring, like the gauges, clutch switches, and transmission reverse lock out controller, then run the wiring out of the interior and the wiring from the engine inside in one focal point.

Pretty much have the old harness figured out, just need to finish ripping out the wires I don't need.


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Your build is going to be sick!! Diggin the 5.0 in the new edge, That motor looks really wide between those shock towers.

Question Toph, What muffler did you use on the turbo 6 from your video's it sounded pretty good.


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Your build is going to be sick!! Diggin the 5.0 in the new edge, That motor looks really wide between those shock towers.

Question Toph, What muffler did you use on the turbo 6 from your video's it sounded pretty good.

Thanks man!

FYI, the mufflers on the old set up were flowtech glasspack mufflers, ~$20 a piece. I just used band clamps to clamp them on. I still have them in 2.25" inlet/outlet with the clamps if you are interested.


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Spent last night prepping the interior for the roll bar install as well as ripping out the dash to make setting up the wiring for the coyote control pack easier.

Lucked out on the clutch switches. The coyote control pack requires two clutch switches. One for bottom travel so that the ecu knows when the clutch is fully depressed and it can apply power to the starter motor upon request. The second is a top of travel engagement, basically when youre just starting to release the clutch. The ecu needs to know this so that it can see that the load is coming off of the engine and it can adjust the ecu parameters so it doesn't over rev or bog out. So since I already have both, I just need to cut the ends off of the new wiring harness and splice into my old connectors. Easy peasy.

Hoping to get a lot of the wiring run and done up this coming week, and hoping to get an engine fire up in the books by first week of march. Will see how things keep to that schedule.

Rear interior removal:

Dash Removal:

Parts Storage (thankfully my buddy doesn't mind me storing my stuff at his house for the time being)


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Sooo siick
I can see ur wiring skills are somewhat above norm
Please get into detail for us noobs
Maybe u can be the one to turn the chinese into english

Us noobs are counting on u!


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Been a busy past week or so, so didn't get much time to work on the car lately.

Had the day off from work so we started mocking up the roll bar setup. We got the seam sealer out of the way that we needed to to have it sit smooth, as well as cleaning out some of the insulation. Then got the main hoop plate holes drilled and set up. Just need to drill the holes for the rear mounts and sandwhich plates, then get the rear supports welded onto the main hoop. Then final install.



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Last night was pretty productive. We pulled the exhaust off to make a couple small adjustments as one end was just a bit longer than the other.

Dropped the fuel tank again so that I could preflush the fuel lines to make sure there wasn't any crud in the lines from when I was making them.

Worked on mounting the ECU. This took a lot of time in terms of measuring, fitting, figuring out where it was gonna go, making sure there was enough clearance for the fender, wheel liner and the headlights, etc. Ran out of rivet nuts, so those are on order, but I have most of the bolts to hold it in for now so that I can start running the wiring loom for the control pack for the coyote.


We also mounted up the rear supports on the rollbar and got the holes drilled through the body and also got the backing plates lined up, drilled, and set up so that the roll bar is fully bolted. Now I need to just cut the interior panels to allow the roll bar through, then I can take the cage back out to get finish welded (rear supports are currently seperate/bolted to the main hoop). Once that is finish welded we can put it back in the car for good.


Tomorrow I have the whole day to work on the car so we are gonna see how far on the wiring we can get and try to bust it all out.


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For me..
The hardest part usually is just getting started...
Once i get started the ball starts rolling then ill stop only when i get hit by a snag that i cant do without a special tool or some reason that i have to get in my daily..
May the force be with you..


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Long weekend working on wiring over the past two days.

Started by working on ripping apart the stock harness to find the back up lights so I can splice in the new connector for the T56 harness. Also was working on figuring out which wires I needed and which ones I could get rid of. Honestly, I lost about 80% of the stock harness.


Then got it more or less routed under the fender.


I ultimately had three power wires that went into the bay that I needed to have power to. I had a wire with 12V during key on/start so I used that as a trigger wire for a relay to a fused power wire from the main fuse box. I'm hoping that will be the only adjustment needed and that the harness works out as planned. Otherwise I will be going to a scrapyard to pick up another harness. Thankfully v6 mustangs frequent them plenty haha.

One sacrifice I had to make was mounting the engine harness fuse box underneath the front fender. Hopefully I don't have any issues here as to get to it I'll have to jack the car up, take off the wheel, remove the fender liner then drop it down just to check fuses. Plenty of clearance though to the fender.


After all that I was able to get it tidied up and ended up with this. Should work pretty well.

Hoping to get the gauge wires done up on Tuesday, then the transmission and tach adapter wires/boxes set up on Thursday. After that all that remains is priming the engine oil, filling the coolant, trans and powersteering and installing the interior. Crossing fingers to actually have everything in place to fire it up next weekend.


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V8 sound! Video! Or it didnt happen!! Lol
That pic of u sitting on the floor figuring out the wires is one of those a picture is worth a thousand words typa picture lol epic!!
Yea everyone i seen who does the coyote swap ends up putting the fuses in the passenger fender..
Loving the write up! Keep it going!
The force is strong with you young padowan!!