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Vibration at certain RPM

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Russell0102, Jan 10, 2019.

  1. Russell0102

    Russell0102 New Member

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    Hello, new here. Just bought an 01 Mineral Gray V6 5-speed, 167k miles (we also have an almost identical 2002, daughter's car, automatic that has just turned 60k miles). First few days with the 5-speed car and whether in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear there is a terrible vibration throughout the car at roughly 1700-1800 rpm. Runs fine below 1500 and above 2000, and the only thing I know of is the seller put in new plugs and wires before selling. Idle is good, starts fine, no lights - any suggestions where to begin searching for a solution? Happy that I found this forum - daughter and I plan to spend the next couple years customizing our "twins."
     
  2. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    How about in neutral? How is 1st gear in those rpm ranges?

    Could be as simple as tread seperation on a tire or a tire (or multiple tires) out of balance.
     
  3. Russell0102

    Russell0102 New Member

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    Sure seems more like an engine issue, I need to test in neutral/1st/2nd gear, good suggestion. I should have been more clear in my description that it isn't a tire/suspension vibration, I'm confident it's engine or somewhere within the drivetrain. Wish it was tires, that would be easy to fix - thanks for your reply!
     
  4. fasterthanyou

    fasterthanyou Active Member

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    Is this under all load conditions or only during hard acceleration?

    There are honestly so many things it could be. Just need more info. Try to be as specific as possible. Important factors are vehicle speed, throttle position (cruising, wide open, closed), does it do it in neutral/1st/2nd? Etc... do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? Brake pedal? Can you feel it in under your butt? ( not being silly, a bad trans mount can cause a bad vibration but you would feel that more under your butt).
     
  5. Serpent

    Serpent Active Member

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    do you know if the driveshaft has been out at all. have you checked the u joints>
     
  6. Russell0102

    Russell0102 New Member

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    Thanks for the good questions and suggestions. Happens in neutral, 1st, etc and at whatever road speed corresponds to the rpm range, so I'm going to begin isolating and checking mechanical items first (harmonic balancer, maybe driveshaft, etc.). Our daughter's 02 automatic has a much less-severe but noticeable vibration in the same rpm range, doesn't matter what road speed or gear just like with the 01. I know these aren't "premium" cars or engines and I'm not looking for Infiniti/Lexus V6 smoothness, but the 01/manual is no fun to drive right now because that rpm range seems to be where it wants to spend most of its time. Will post any revelations I discover, thanks again!!
     
  7. Sam36

    Sam36 Active Member

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    Since new, my 2000 v6 always had a "rumble" that would appear at 55 mph (roughly 1700 rpm or so). Always been there and I see others complain of the same. But its only when moving at 55mph though. Now fast forward to 2014 or so, I stick a used T5 in (do the auto to manual swap). All is well, but I didn't like the clutch that came with the used T5 (clutch as used as well). So I bought a valeo clutch kit from rockauto and installed it. Got a bad car shaking vibration around 1.5k rpm. Would do it in neutral as well as driving. On top of the "rumble" I would already get at 55mph, it just made the car miserable to drive. Replaced the harmonic balancer (bought from Ford for $320), but it did nothing. Finally bit the bullet and bought 3 more clutch kits from rockauto, picked the one I thought "looked" the best (which was the most expensive one branded "Sachs") and sent the rest back (paying the restocking fee as well). Swapped out the clutch and pressure plate (still quite mad at this point), but the end result was a new car.

    Might be your problem, don't know. Might be worth looking into. If you don't want to change the clutch, a shop will probably charge you $600-$700. Problem is, parts are just garbage today. Your best bet would be to take your fly wheel and pressure plate to a machine shop and have them both balanced. That will certainly solve the issue and make sure you won't have to pull the clutch more than once... That is what I'm going to if I ever have to do a clutch job again at least. You could always buy the clutch kit straight from ford, but it is $600. However the parts you will received will be branded 'valeo' and not ford. Given the clutch that I had to replace was valeo, I don't know if I would trust it straight from ford either...
     
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  8. Russell0102

    Russell0102 New Member

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    Hey Sam36, thank you for such a thorough reply - sounds like exactly what I'm dealing with. I've pretty much decided to go ahead and invest what I need to, to make the car right. I am going to begin digging in, will provide updates as appropriate. To Sam36 and the others who have helped - thank you thank you thank you!