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you know what i find annoying?

Discussion in '1994-2004 V6 Mustang Tech' started by Hossein, Jun 24, 2004.

  1. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    my 1st gear sticks
    i don't know how to descrive it, but i will try my best

    if i shift out of 1st @ an rpm 2000 or lower...it goes into 2nd nicely

    if i shift higher than 2000, my stick kinda "sticks" and feels like it doesn't want to release to shift into 2nd....than...with a little bit of pressure, it will release and go into 2nd fine.

    also..if i accelerate somewhat fast ( i dont' kill my car) .. and let the rpm go up to about 3000-3500.. again..it shifts fine..

    whats the problem? y is it sticking like that?


    also..another quesiton...do you guys recommend i change just the thro-out bearing? or the wole deal?,... i have that clutch rattle.. ive had it for a long time and dont' think that is the cause of my 1st gear sticking. and its only 1st gear that sticks.

    thanks
    ~hoss
     
  2. AZdevil

    AZdevil liquor box

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    do you have a short shifter or a short shifter arm. If you power shift to often you might have bent the fork and it doesn't want to engage.
     
  3. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    absolutly nothing on my car has been modifeid or anything.. PURE stock.

    i do not beat my car, i do not powershift at all. i dont' rev even past 3000.

    i use 87 octane.. recently got a tranny fluid change (they could only fit 2.2L in.. but the book says to fill 2.6 L) ..

    about the previous post..i made a mistake..it sticks on ANY RPM... ishifted @ 1500 today and it did it was "sticky" coming out of 1st..

    could it be that the tranny fluid is not filled to its max capacity?

    i also got a differential fluid change recently as well...along with fuel system flush and oil change.


    this problem/annouance started after all these "tuneups" and recommended services.

    they were not done by me and were done by a mechanic
     
  4. Brandon

    Brandon Better Than Sliced Bread!

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    if you shift high in the rpms will it come out of first but not go into second? like when you take the rpms up in first can you pull it out of first and push it over toward 5th gear? it could just be second.
     
  5. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    nono.. like 2nd, 3rs 4tha nd 5th are fine..

    it just that when i press int he Clutch, and put my hand on the shifter... and start to go into 2nd (but still in first).. .that first little bit of pressure it takes to take it out of 1st is a little more than all the other gears and was not like that beeeeefore.

    thanks
     
  6. Brandon

    Brandon Better Than Sliced Bread!

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    well the only reason that i could think of besides something wrong with the actual gear set/syncro for first is that the clutch petal is not going in far enough, to loose or to much slack in the cable. which would mean it should be harder to shift into other gears as well. you can TRY to adjust it with an aftermarket adjuster or reach up under the dash push the cltuch in with one hand and grab the quadrent with the other ease out on the clutch whill pulling back on the quadrent in the opposite direction that the clutch is allowing ot to move as it comes out. let the quadrent move just hold tention on it this will make the quadrent take up slack.

    hold the quadrent across where the cables goes though the groove.
     
  7. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    i dont' think my synchros are messed up or tranny is bad. because its not HARD to take it out of 1st, but just sticky like i said... kind of like, when you get super glue on your fingers and you have to put a little pressure to seperate your fingers.

    the clutch travel is friggen long tho.. when the clutch is 3/4 way released, it is still not engaged.. after a little passed 3/4 way.. than it engages.

    the clutch does however seem strong but the throout bearing is making that tapping noise (im not sure if its actually causing damage.. im no expert)

    i would like to try you method of "lessening" the slack on the clutch, but i don't know exactly how to do it.. can you describe what im looking for under the dash? wont i need 2 people to do this? one to pressin the clutch? my clutch is pretty stuff and i dont' think i coiuld press it in with my hand. lol.

    but i would like to try it because i can tell you right now the travel is WAY TOO MUCH.. my sisters civic is one tenth the travel.

    thanks a lot for your help and if you could help me a little more on detail on how to do the quadrant thing (i dont even know what that is).

    thanks a lot
     
  8. Brandon

    Brandon Better Than Sliced Bread!

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    if ford just worked on it or whom ever and the throw out bearing is ticking guess what htey didnt do it right lol and you should get them to replace it asap so they cant blame you with it... since it just started a throw out should last a VERY long time.... take my advise here and i strongly recommend you take it... talk to ford tell them you have talked to people that have been in the same spot with a throw out bearing going bad, i had 4 go bad all under warranty all with in a year..... they finally got it right. and you want to know the secret to getting it right? new parts. I paid OUT OF MY OWN POCKET for a new fork arm, pivot ball stud, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, resurfacing the flywheel (same flywheel just resurfaced) and clutch cable and I checked the bearing retainer sleeve for scaring and mine was ok else you replace it two, seems a little much but do you want to go back again and again to finally give in and do this?

    I have a fork arm oem brand new 99 up you can HAVE for 15 bucks.... i took all my stuff to ford and they went ahead and replaced the fork arm for free so i kept the one i paid for. This might be over kill but after i had 2 ford rep's come look at my car, my friend go over it BY HAND he even reneutralized the motor mounts and checked for binding all kinds of stuff... and in the end the answer was simply doing it right with new parts....

    go to www.gefracing.com and you can order the ford factory parts for pretty dang cheap. if you want that fork arm let me know i got the part number for reference i just dont need it anymore.

    if the clutch releases high its actually a good thing to a point, when it becomes bad is if the cable has so much tention on it that the clutch does not fully come out all the way, the throw out bearing does not fully come back off the pressure plate, causign the throw out to ride on the pressure plate and perhaps even one of the pressure plate fingers has raised up a tad much and is ticking the side of the throw out bearing when it is turning....

    see if pulling up on the underside of the clutch petal and pushing down slowly does anything for adjustment it might help.

    if you are sitting in the car and touch the top of the clutch petal just touch the top is it firm when its all the way out? or kinda soft? can you raise it up and it will flop back down or is it at the top of its travel and when you try to pull up on the clutch petal does it only go a tiny bit and stop?

    you want a half inch slack before the clutch starts to engage, slack NOT floppyness. to check this go down the road at 55 or what ever mph not a big deal, hold the gas constant and push the clutch in if you can go more than a half inch before the rpms start to jump up (clutch slipping into neutral) then its ok, if you dont then the cable needs more slack.

    i find it highly doubtful that the stock cable/quadrent will not have enough slack.

    to actually take up slack adn make it firmer, if the petal has alot of flop in it,
    you only need one person to get under the dash, if you look above the gas petal~ you will see teh clutch cable come though the firewall and down over the quadrent though a little groove to guide the clutch cable, and the end of the cable will be a little metal washer to hold it on the end of the quadrent, at the other end of the quadrent near the firewall you will see a smaller gear called a pawl, this is what holds the adjustment, if you pull up on the clutch all the way you will see the pawl click to take up slack (spring loaded) but you have to pull the clutch up all the way until it wont raise anymore to see this.

    now push the clutch down with one hand, then take the other hand while the clutch is on the floor and wrap it around the quadrent so that your are holding across the groove where the clutch cable goes down over the quadrent, and then pull down toward the floor, while you are holding tention on the quadrent ease up on the clutch petal, allow the quadrent to twist back you are simply trying to keep tention on the quadrent back aginst the motion its going to go in while you are easing the clutch petal out. this tricks the pawl into thinking the quadrent is really loose and it needs to take up slack in the cable to pull the quadrent back toward the firewall more. once the clutch is about all the way out or all the way out in that area you will hear a click noise from the quadrent/pawl this is the pawl taking up slack on the quadrent, give it two clicks and then feel the top of the clutch petal get it frim at the top not floopy. just firm at the top and then go test drive it and make sure you have a half inch of slack before the clutch starts to go into neutral as shown how to check above.
     
  9. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    wow..lots of info.

    1- the fork arm thing...i don't even know what its funciton is. i noticed today while driving to work that at 3000rpm, my shifter does not stick coming out of 1st.

    2- my throw out bearing started tapping about 2 months ago.. i bought the car used with 30k on it in january and it is under a 3rd party warrenty.. so clutch is not under warrenty. however, it does not rattle/tap all the time..once in a while it does this but has not affected the overall performance of the clutch itself (unless this stickiness is due to the t.o bearing)

    3- when i put my foot under the clutch and raise it up and let go, there is no "flop" AT ALL. its stiff.. when i press in my clutch while shifting/netural or even with the car off, it bounces back (releases) strong. its really srpingy, like.. it pushes back on my foot while its down alot (wanting to release)...i heard it a good thing..but is it?

    4- i tried the adjusting thing.. did nothing. :(

    5- if im sitting in the car and touch the top of the clutch, it is NOT soft or floppy.. its as stiff as a rock.

    6- the 55mph test thing turned out to be ok based on your description of what it should do (i can go more than 1/2 inch before rpm revs up)

    once again..i want to remind you that i did get a tranny fluid change, and the guy @ Mr.Luve said that he could only fit in 2.2L of fluid..but requires 2.6L or something..

    i also had a differential fluid change...should that cause anything?

    thanks so much for your patience
     
  10. Brandon

    Brandon Better Than Sliced Bread!

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    well if the car was level and you got 2.2 then its all you can do if the front of the car was pointing down it would take less fluid due to its not level to teh ground.

    the tapping will get worse and worse and worse and worse and will have to be replaced its a cheap part but while you are in there you REALLy need to replace all the little parts they are also very cheap, and you should get a new clutch and resurface the flywheel so you wont have to take it back out for a VERY long time and once again the oem clutch is very cheap.
     
  11. Hossein

    Hossein HossMan

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    Thx for the info.

    i don' thtink it would be anything other than the clutch or low lube for tranny..cuz i don't kill it or anything..its never under pressure.

    i will be looking into a new clutch @ 60 000km..

    how come only 2.2L fits? it was level..but, its odd that only 2.2L fits and not what the book says.

    thanks